[Katherine Swift]

As long as you are measuring both parts as directed and the resin is curing properly, it isn’t unusual to have some of one component leftover when you run out of the other.

[Katherine Swift]

Unfortunately, food coloring does not work well to color resin. There is too much moisture and may keep the resin from curing.

I have used paint pens on cured resin and been happy with the results.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Mare,

You will need to use a quick-curing polyurethane resin like this one: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-casting-resin-16-oz-opaque-white and add a touch of this beige color: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/products/alumilite-doll-skin-tone-liquid-dye

Wait until the cup of resin gets hot before trying to pour.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Ed,

I haven’t found that using glow powder in resin causes a curing problem, but you should try to use as little as possible.

As for getting a glossy finish to the down side again, you will either need to recoat it with another layer of resin, or use a couple light coats of gloss sealer spray. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/castin-craft-gloss-resin-sealer-spray

[Fiver Dan]

The marine polyester resins we use in yacht and boat building/repair cures with a tacky surface UNLESS it has wax additive.
Get in touch with a resin/fiberglass distributor with knowledge re: wax additive. Maybe one that deals heavily in the marine industry.
The wax additive in no way negatively affects the strength of the finished product as it ends up in the surface due to the curing reaction but it eliminates tacky surface cure.

[mr.saccharin]

the easymold rubber creates hydrogen gas bubbles as it cures and these seep into the resin that is in your mold. The package suggests heat curing the mold but i’ve found this doesn’t work either.

[Katherine Swift]

I haven’t tried tree sap as coloring, so I don’t know how well it would work.

If you want a hard curing resin for sculpture, polyurethanes are what I would use.

[Katherine Swift]

First, let me say I don’t have any experience with paper clay. Based upon your description however, I am concerned moisture in the clay may keep the resin from curing. (Resin hates moisture.)

I also wouldn’t consider resin a ‘strengthening’ additive. The ones that cure super hard act more like glass – hard but fragile.

[Katherine Swift]

Unfortunately, this is the nature of polyester resin. The surface exposed to air during curing will remain tacky, even after a full cure. When this happens to me, I finish it with a couple of light coats of resin gloss sealer spray. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/castin-craft-gloss-resin-sealer-spray

[Jade]

I’ve had a similar problem with clear molds turning cloudy/milky, and actually I’ve had some colored silicone molds develop a similar milky appearance. The one difference in my situation is that the affected cavities began as very shiny surfaces, but are becoming somewhat dull with continued use. I’ve never received a good explanation of what is causing it or why, but based on my experience I’d say that if you have the means to replace the mold, you should plan on doing so. Personally I’ve taken to making my own molds with either Castin’ Craft pink silicone or the reusable Composimold gel. Now whenever I get a new mold, the first thing I do is fill it with the quick-curing white resin and keep that casting “on file” so that later if the mold becomes used up or damaged, I can simply make a new one.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Gail,

For casting into molds, the Resin Obsession super clear resin works well. It is designed for molds and cures crystal clear. You can buy it in several sizes here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin

I’m not familiar with Daler Rowney ink so I don’t know if they will work. Acrylic paint can work provided you use as little as possible. Paints attract moisture which can keep the resin from fully curing. Otherwise, we have colorants designed specifically for resin here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants

I do understand you not wanting to have lines in your casting. Unfortunately, we don’t have a large sphere mold at this time, but it’s something we are working on. 😉

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Ann,

I’m sorry to hear you are having problems. This articles covers several reasons why your resin isn’t curing: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-troubleshooting-tips/

[Katherine Swift]

I don’t have any experience, so I don’t know how well acrylic paints will do on a tabletop. Pouring resin over them isn’t a problem.

You can try acrylic paints to color resin, but a word of caution. They have more moisture in them as compared to colors specifically designed for resin. This moisture can keep the resin from curing. If you are going to try, use as little as possible.

[Katherine Swift]

I will also add the quick curing polyurethane resins don’t work well with meltable molding materials because they get too hot and melt the mold. Epoxies tend to do fine. I haven’t worked much with UV resins so I don’t know if that will be a problem or not.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Alyssa,

We don’t sell the Alumilite product, but this is the information I got from Composimold:

“We’ve experimented with the UV resin and if you have a UV light to cure the resin it works great. However, you can’t stick the ComposiMold in the hot sun to cure the resin because it will melt the ComposiMold. I tried that and that didn’t work so well.

We’ve also tried curing the UV resin through the ComposiMold, but ComposiMold appears to filter the light too much.”