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In reply to: Using resin to fill voids in cabochons
Hi Pat,
I have done a little of this, so I’m happy to share my experiences.
I would not use polyester resin in this case. How you mix polyester resin (with hardener) depends on the depth of the casting. I’m afraid it would be rather tedious to get the amount of catalyst just right to allow your resin to cure. Your logic makes sense though, since polyester resin does well on a buffing and polishing wheel.
In this case, I think a hard curing epoxy resin, like the Resin Obsession super clear resin would work well. You can buy it in several sizes in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin I have used it in cases like this and did well on a polishing wheel. The resin probably works best once the stone has been polished. That will mean there is less total heat/friction applied to the stone.
In reply to: Using leaves in resin
Hi Anna,
Unfortunately fresh leaves or leaves preserved in glycerin aren’t going to work. Resin hates moisture so the excess water in the leaves may keep the resin from curing. The other problem is that while the leaves may look good right away, they will eventually rot in the resin. Have you considered using ‘silk’ leaves?
As for the resin, the Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast epoxy is what I recommend. It’s considered food safe once properly cured. You can find it in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/alumilite
In reply to: Layers
As long as the first layer has partially cured, you can pour the next layer. This will minimize the lines between layers. If you are worried your resin may not be curing properly, keep a little bit in your cup to check on it without bothering the resin in your mold.
When using EasyCast resin, you can make the layers as thick as necessary, but mix no more than 16 ounces of resin and hardener (total) at once.
In reply to: Making coasters heat proof
If they are getting sticky with your fingerprints, it sounds like the resin didn’t fully cure. It’s normal for the surface exposed to air during curing to remain tacky. You will need to sand that side down or seal it with something like our resin gloss sealer spray. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/castin-craft-gloss-resin-sealer-spray?variant=965319185
As for shipping, I always used tissue paper, but I have seen other artists use glassine paper as well.
In reply to: Making coasters heat proof
Are you leaving fingerprints and lint on the surface exposed to air during curing or on a different surface?
In reply to: Making coasters heat proof
Hi Katherine
Thanks for your reply and love you’re creations!
Yes I think they’re curing, I’ve been leaving them about a week before sanding, but then I’m getting finger marks on where my fingers have been. Also, what would I pack my pieces in to take them anywhere, as when I’ve tried, I wrapped them in a towel and the towel left imprints on the resin. I also tried bubble wrap which did the same. I know it sounds like they’re not curing…..?????In reply to: Making coasters heat proof
Hi Di,
It’s been my experience that a hot mug straight from the microwave or with extremely hot liquid leaves marks on coasters. Polyester does cure quite hard, however, and I would haven’t expected as many problems with that kind of resin. Are you sure it’s fully curing?
In reply to: Seashells and Resin casting
I have done this. You have to make sure the inside of the shell is full of resin so you don’t have bubbles popping out of it while it’s curing. The resin may change the color of the shell, mine turned darker. The same darkening happens to sand in resin.
In reply to: Alcohol Inks and Epoxy Problem- Disappearing Inks?
Sharing this info, hoping it helps someone. I also use the Ranger Inks on ceramic tile and then coat with resin. I’ve just recently started using resin so I did a practice pour on on of my old tiles (like 2 years old!) and it turned out beautifully! I then made the mistake of applying resin to my day old pieces for my upcoming show. I could have cried…..any tile that had purples, or burgundy, or in the red family totally disappeared. Now I’m trying to troubleshoot what happened. I took another one of my 2 year old tiles with a vibrant magenta, purple, teal, and lime green color and tried again. It has been sitting for about 2 hours and there is a tiny bit of fade but not enough that most would even notice. I forgot to mention that before I applied the resin I clear coated 4 light coats of Krylon crystal clear. The only thing that is different in the tiles is the “age” factor. I’m guessing that curing for 2 years somehow make the ink less susceptible to the resin? Whatever the case, I’m still trying to find a way to add resin to newly (day old) tiles as I don’t have two years to wait!! I have also noticed that with some colors the Krylon creates tiny white spots where the ink has reacted with it……..Again hope this info helps someone as I could have cried with the lesson I learned!
In reply to: Square coaster mold
It sounds like there were bubbles that formed that popped while the resin was curing. The resin wasn’t fluid enough to fill in the voids.
What kind/brand of resin did you use? How much did you mix?
Hi Jon,
Welcome to the world of resin! Here are my thoughts and suggestions with your situation:
1. The best way to keep debris out of your resin while it’s curing is to cover it after you pour the resin. I don’t know how large your pieces are, but a large plastic container placed upside on your piece works best. If your pieces are extra large, a plastic swimming pool can work. Keep your piece fully covered until the soft cure stage.
2. If you do get dust into your resin, you may be lucky enough to cover it with another layer of resin and no one will notice. From time to time, I would find a stray hair in a resin casting only because the surface would look uneven. Another coat of resin smoothed everything out and the hair ‘disappeared’. If you do find you need to sand the pieces, start with a coarse wet/dry sandpaper. Continue to sand until you end with a 1000 grit or higher, otherwise, you may see sanding marks underneath your new layer of resin. Wear a dust mask and be careful not to inhale/ingest the dust. Once you have the piece sanded, recoat the entire piece with a new layer of resin. If you don’t, you will be able to see your patches. By doing it this way, you will get the glossiest and most even finish possible.
3. For resin pouring, you want to be sure you are using a resin that conforms to ASTM D-4236. These are resins that have been reviewed by a toxicologist and are deemed suitable for art purposes. That doesn’t mean there aren’t safety precautions (like wearing gloves, having good ventilation, etc.), but at a minimum, it means that someone has reviewed them knowing they will be used in an small-scale artist environment (home or otherwise) and have found them to be able to be safely used for that purpose. Once you settle on a resin you would like to use, ask to see the safety data sheet (SDS) for that resin. There will be specifics in that document as to safety precautions, how to dispose of it, etc. We also have several safety articles that may be helpful to you: https://resinobsession.com/tag/safety
In reply to: Resin drying time
Hi Tom,
You will want to use a resin that has a short curing time. Once a resin has soft cured, you can demold it and set it aside to allow it to fully cure. It will be soft and indentable at this point, so handle it carefully.
For the resins we sell, there is a PDF link on this page that details their soft cure (demold time) and full cure. https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-casting
In reply to: Making resin coasters
Hi Tom,
Yes, you can pour the resin and add the decal as above, but you will see line between the layers. If you wait until the first layer starts to gel, and not fully cure, you can add your decal, pour the next layer and the line should be minimized or gone altogether.
You can speed up the curing time of a resin by putting it in a resin ‘hot box’. You can see an example of one here: https://resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/resin-casting-in-cold-weather We have several plastic coaster molds here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/molds/coaster Molds 431 and 584 are most popular.
Good luck!
In reply to: Tiny particles in finished casting
I had the same issue (I think) I had a bunch of tiny bubbles (maybe less than 1/8 of a millimeter each in diameter of the bubble) in my cured resin that appear to be randomly scattered at different levels throughout the resin layer. I would usually sand it down and repair but these microscopic bubbles look to be as deep as the very bottom of the bottom of the pour. (I do layered paintings with epoxy resin) Ive used a butane torch after pouring and it looks to be completely clear and I also covered the piece as well for curing. Maybe it is particles left from sanding the prior layer?
In reply to: Resin will not dry
Hi Jade,
I’m sorry to hear your resin isn’t curing. At this point, it is unlikely to cure. We have a troubleshooting article here that may help you pinpoint the cause of the problem. https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-troubleshooting-tips
In the meantime, if your resin is gooey, there is no way to save it. You will need to scrape out of or off your project and start over. If it’s only sticky in a couple of spots, you can recoat with another layer of resin and do okay.
