[Katherine Swift]

Hi Mark,

I don’t know that I would use spray foam for something like this as it will likely release bubbles into your resin while it’s curing.

Perhaps you could use a clear acrylic plug as a filler? You can resin either end.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Debs,

This is a two part mold. If you place the two halves together, the tabs will fit into the recesses around the dinosaurs. At the dinosaur’s feet, there will be an opening. That is where you will want to pour the resin. You will need to find a way to keep the mold vertical the entire time it is curing.

[Toma Ana Maria]

Hello! I am on my first resin pour on a table top, and after curing time the edges started to peel off. Don’t know why, hope you to answer me what mistakes I’ve done and how to fix it. Thanks!

[Katherine Swift]

What are you using to cover your art while it’s curing? Is it able to completely cover the it on all sides all the way to the table?

[Dymond K Spain]

I have sprayed water on the floor, covered vents, i always cover the project when it’s curing, turning off the ac, even a tarp to hang over it while drying. Not sure what else to do!

[Katherine Swift]

Unfortunately, there isn’t a coating that can make them heat resistant. You will need to use something like a hard curing polyester or polyurethane resin.

[Cate]

Hi Ann, I’ve also used some resin that just has such a low viscosity and long curing time that any inclusions, including pigment colouring, won’t stay put and either float or sink. My solution was to switch to another variety of resin that had a pot time of about 15 minutes.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Amy,

I’m sorry to hear you are experiencing bubbles with the super clear resin. Have you tried warming up the resin first? That is what works best for me. I show how to do that here: https://youtu.be/ugQSgVIP2Uk

As for a pressure pot, the resin has to be under pressure the entire time while it is curing. In the case of the super clear resin, this will need to be 12 hours. The compressor may or may not need to be running the entire time. If you have a good seal on your pot, I would expect you would not need it running.

Pressure casting makes the bubbles so small that you can’t see them. Vacuum casting pulls the bubbles to the surface to try to get them to pop. In your case, you will want to pressure cast. Vacuum casting works great for silicone, but I find with epoxy resin it makes ‘beer foam’ on the top of the castings.

I have not pressure cast with plastic molds, but haven’t had a problem pressure casting silicone molds.

If you want to get a pressure pot, I recommend Grainger. Their pots are a little more expensive, but I think they are better made and safer.

[Katherine Swift]

HI Nikki,

Thanks for the picture. Yes, this helps a lot.

I’m afraid I don’t have many good options for you.

Option 1: Cast the entire piece in a light beige or white color. Paint with acrylic paints after demolding.
Option 2: Use melted wax in strategic places to create a dam. Cast your resin, then remove the wax before making the new pour.
Option 3: Try ‘painting’ the areas of the mold with a quick-curing resin. You wouldn’t have to fill the mold, but as long as the resin sticks to the sides, it could start curing quickly enough that it wouldn’t run down into your mold. You could then fill the mold with a neutral color to fill in the rest of the mold once the first layer has cured.

Any of these sound like something you want to try?

[Shannon]

I have experimented in past with resin adding micas, embedments, etc but I too don’t want a failed attempt in making a jewelry piece using my mother’s ashes.

I have previously poured resin into molds, waited for it to come to gel state, and then added mica powder etc and used toothpick to suspend it within. After that cures, I have found finished product is better if I add a second resin layer. I have also used this process and 3 part layered piur

In theory, do you think process above could be done with human ashes? Or perhaps accelerating the curing process? I’m concerned that the ash will gravitate to the bottom or top. Equally concerned the ash will become layered and not suspended in a fluid manner. I want to avoid air bubbles at all costs.

[Katherine Swift]

As long as you are measuring both parts as directed and the resin is curing properly, it isn’t unusual to have some of one component leftover when you run out of the other.

[Katherine Swift]

Unfortunately, food coloring does not work well to color resin. There is too much moisture and may keep the resin from curing.

I have used paint pens on cured resin and been happy with the results.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Mare,

You will need to use a quick-curing polyurethane resin like this one: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-casting-resin-16-oz-opaque-white and add a touch of this beige color: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/products/alumilite-doll-skin-tone-liquid-dye

Wait until the cup of resin gets hot before trying to pour.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Ed,

I haven’t found that using glow powder in resin causes a curing problem, but you should try to use as little as possible.

As for getting a glossy finish to the down side again, you will either need to recoat it with another layer of resin, or use a couple light coats of gloss sealer spray. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/castin-craft-gloss-resin-sealer-spray

[Fiver Dan]

The marine polyester resins we use in yacht and boat building/repair cures with a tacky surface UNLESS it has wax additive.
Get in touch with a resin/fiberglass distributor with knowledge re: wax additive. Maybe one that deals heavily in the marine industry.
The wax additive in no way negatively affects the strength of the finished product as it ends up in the surface due to the curing reaction but it eliminates tacky surface cure.