[Katherine Swift]

HI Nikki,

Thanks for the picture. Yes, this helps a lot.

I’m afraid I don’t have many good options for you.

Option 1: Cast the entire piece in a light beige or white color. Paint with acrylic paints after demolding.
Option 2: Use melted wax in strategic places to create a dam. Cast your resin, then remove the wax before making the new pour.
Option 3: Try ‘painting’ the areas of the mold with a quick-curing resin. You wouldn’t have to fill the mold, but as long as the resin sticks to the sides, it could start curing quickly enough that it wouldn’t run down into your mold. You could then fill the mold with a neutral color to fill in the rest of the mold once the first layer has cured.

Any of these sound like something you want to try?

[Shannon]

I have experimented in past with resin adding micas, embedments, etc but I too don’t want a failed attempt in making a jewelry piece using my mother’s ashes.

I have previously poured resin into molds, waited for it to come to gel state, and then added mica powder etc and used toothpick to suspend it within. After that cures, I have found finished product is better if I add a second resin layer. I have also used this process and 3 part layered piur

In theory, do you think process above could be done with human ashes? Or perhaps accelerating the curing process? I’m concerned that the ash will gravitate to the bottom or top. Equally concerned the ash will become layered and not suspended in a fluid manner. I want to avoid air bubbles at all costs.

[Katherine Swift]

As long as you are measuring both parts as directed and the resin is curing properly, it isn’t unusual to have some of one component leftover when you run out of the other.

[Katherine Swift]

Unfortunately, food coloring does not work well to color resin. There is too much moisture and may keep the resin from curing.

I have used paint pens on cured resin and been happy with the results.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Mare,

You will need to use a quick-curing polyurethane resin like this one: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-casting-resin-16-oz-opaque-white and add a touch of this beige color: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/products/alumilite-doll-skin-tone-liquid-dye

Wait until the cup of resin gets hot before trying to pour.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Ed,

I haven’t found that using glow powder in resin causes a curing problem, but you should try to use as little as possible.

As for getting a glossy finish to the down side again, you will either need to recoat it with another layer of resin, or use a couple light coats of gloss sealer spray. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/castin-craft-gloss-resin-sealer-spray

[Fiver Dan]

The marine polyester resins we use in yacht and boat building/repair cures with a tacky surface UNLESS it has wax additive.
Get in touch with a resin/fiberglass distributor with knowledge re: wax additive. Maybe one that deals heavily in the marine industry.
The wax additive in no way negatively affects the strength of the finished product as it ends up in the surface due to the curing reaction but it eliminates tacky surface cure.

[mr.saccharin]

the easymold rubber creates hydrogen gas bubbles as it cures and these seep into the resin that is in your mold. The package suggests heat curing the mold but i’ve found this doesn’t work either.

[Katherine Swift]

I haven’t tried tree sap as coloring, so I don’t know how well it would work.

If you want a hard curing resin for sculpture, polyurethanes are what I would use.

[Katherine Swift]

First, let me say I don’t have any experience with paper clay. Based upon your description however, I am concerned moisture in the clay may keep the resin from curing. (Resin hates moisture.)

I also wouldn’t consider resin a ‘strengthening’ additive. The ones that cure super hard act more like glass – hard but fragile.

[Katherine Swift]

Unfortunately, this is the nature of polyester resin. The surface exposed to air during curing will remain tacky, even after a full cure. When this happens to me, I finish it with a couple of light coats of resin gloss sealer spray. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/castin-craft-gloss-resin-sealer-spray

[Jade]

I’ve had a similar problem with clear molds turning cloudy/milky, and actually I’ve had some colored silicone molds develop a similar milky appearance. The one difference in my situation is that the affected cavities began as very shiny surfaces, but are becoming somewhat dull with continued use. I’ve never received a good explanation of what is causing it or why, but based on my experience I’d say that if you have the means to replace the mold, you should plan on doing so. Personally I’ve taken to making my own molds with either Castin’ Craft pink silicone or the reusable Composimold gel. Now whenever I get a new mold, the first thing I do is fill it with the quick-curing white resin and keep that casting “on file” so that later if the mold becomes used up or damaged, I can simply make a new one.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Gail,

For casting into molds, the Resin Obsession super clear resin works well. It is designed for molds and cures crystal clear. You can buy it in several sizes here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin

I’m not familiar with Daler Rowney ink so I don’t know if they will work. Acrylic paint can work provided you use as little as possible. Paints attract moisture which can keep the resin from fully curing. Otherwise, we have colorants designed specifically for resin here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants

I do understand you not wanting to have lines in your casting. Unfortunately, we don’t have a large sphere mold at this time, but it’s something we are working on. 😉

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Ann,

I’m sorry to hear you are having problems. This articles covers several reasons why your resin isn’t curing: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-troubleshooting-tips/

[Katherine Swift]

I don’t have any experience, so I don’t know how well acrylic paints will do on a tabletop. Pouring resin over them isn’t a problem.

You can try acrylic paints to color resin, but a word of caution. They have more moisture in them as compared to colors specifically designed for resin. This moisture can keep the resin from curing. If you are going to try, use as little as possible.