Hello everyone,
I want to make a lamp for my granddaughter’s bedroom using wood, resin and a couple of the new Troll Doll movie figurines. I know this question may be a little too specific, but I would really hate to ruin all the materials I’m using, so here goes… Does anyone know if the hair they use on the Troll Doll figurines, (which I’ve been told is Icelandic Sheepskin…) will burn with the resin curing? I really appreciate any help I can get.
Just the heat of the normal curing process. One mold this has happened on is a figet spinner. I put “extra” deep pour resin in it. Normally I use 7050 clear thin-cast. Do you think it had more heat because the mold wasn’t thick? I also had this happen to a clock, so also a thin mold. And to some smaller but deep animal molds.
Hi,
I make little pendants / medallions.
They are wooden shapes which I paint and then cover with epoxy resin.
I have been reading all the tips about leaking, taping, etc.
I am not really interested in making the pendants very “dome” looking, i just want a rounded, shiny finish.
I wonder if you UV resin would be more helpful since it cures faster and does not leak as much.
Any downside to it?
These are things that I sell, and I wouldn’t want them to yellow.
I made two half cm wide layers of 1:1 clear epoxy resin.
First layer cured properly, second I messed up and it stayed as a honey like consistency. I scrapped off as much of the bad honey like mix as best as I could.
Will adding a new batch over the left over bad mix residue inhibit the new mix from curing properly or will the new mix cure properly on top of the left over bad mix residue?
Thank you.
Hi There,
Very new to using UV resin.
Tried the hot bath technique to remove bubbles but finding my resin is curing in the plastic container. Windows have blinds drawn so no external UV source. I’m wondering if this is a sign of old resin even though I bought it from a store less than a month ago.
Would welcome solutions or alternate ideas.
Cheers
Graham🤠
I’ll need to remove the the project from the temperature-controlled space it’s been in for 3.5 days. Since it’s such a large pour (over a liter) I’d like to keep it curing for a few more days – are temperature swings (64-72) okay at this point?
We’re using UV resin so we can separate the curing process into two stages, and to control the extent of curing. If there’s another variety of resin that would work more consistently, we’re certainly willing to try it.
Degassing (vacuum) is best for mold making. It brings bubbles to the surface where they may not always pop. (think the foam on beer)
Pressure pot casting squeezes the bubbles so tight that you can’t see them with the naked eye. And you’re right — you must leave a resin in the pressure pot for the entire time it’s curing.
Yes, you’re going to need a mold for your project. Unfortunately, we don’t have anything like this in our store.
Once you get the mold, you’ll need to know how much it holds so you know which resin to use.
Since you’re working in molds, you need to use a resin designed for those. We’ve got two. The one you use comes down to how much resin you’re mixing and pouring at once.
For pours of 3 ounces or less, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is what you want: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
For pours of 3 ounces or more, the Resin obsession deep pour casting resin works great: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
You’ll need to put the shells in while the resin is still liquid. Otherwise, you’ll introduce bubbles that likely won’t come out before it begins curing.
Katherine do you have recommendations for the tinting combination? Do you recommend a fast curing resin that will have that clear finished look to use with this tint?
I’m a bit fearful to change the dye with the current resin. I’d prefer having two known goods vs more experimentation since these products ship all over the world!