[Aria]

Hi,
I make little pendants / medallions.
They are wooden shapes which I paint and then cover with epoxy resin.
I have been reading all the tips about leaking, taping, etc.
I am not really interested in making the pendants very “dome” looking, i just want a rounded, shiny finish.
I wonder if you UV resin would be more helpful since it cures faster and does not leak as much.
Any downside to it?

These are things that I sell, and I wouldn’t want them to yellow.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Kel, yes, that can work. LED lights embed well in resin and will light up after curing.

[Steph]

I made two half cm wide layers of 1:1 clear epoxy resin.

First layer cured properly, second I messed up and it stayed as a honey like consistency. I scrapped off as much of the bad honey like mix as best as I could.

Will adding a new batch over the left over bad mix residue inhibit the new mix from curing properly or will the new mix cure properly on top of the left over bad mix residue?
Thank you.

[Graham van Heerde]

Hi There,
Very new to using UV resin.
Tried the hot bath technique to remove bubbles but finding my resin is curing in the plastic container. Windows have blinds drawn so no external UV source. I’m wondering if this is a sign of old resin even though I bought it from a store less than a month ago.
Would welcome solutions or alternate ideas.
Cheers
Graham🤠

[Damon]

I’ll need to remove the the project from the temperature-controlled space it’s been in for 3.5 days. Since it’s such a large pour (over a liter) I’d like to keep it curing for a few more days – are temperature swings (64-72) okay at this point?

[Damon]

Thanks, what’s the room temperature (range) for proper curing?

[Katherine Swift]

Did you use a slow-curing resin?

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Pit,

I’m sorry this is happening to you. Unfortunately, this is a problem when using quick-curing resins.

Are you using a clear-curing resin? If so, I’ve got some other ideas for you.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Cynthia,

It sounds like you’re using a soft curing resin. This article explains more: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/why-is-my-resin-bendy/

[James]

Hi Katherine,

We’re using UV resin so we can separate the curing process into two stages, and to control the extent of curing. If there’s another variety of resin that would work more consistently, we’re certainly willing to try it.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Samantha,

Degassing (vacuum) is best for mold making. It brings bubbles to the surface where they may not always pop. (think the foam on beer)

Pressure pot casting squeezes the bubbles so tight that you can’t see them with the naked eye. And you’re right — you must leave a resin in the pressure pot for the entire time it’s curing.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Susan,

Yes, you’re going to need a mold for your project. Unfortunately, we don’t have anything like this in our store.

Once you get the mold, you’ll need to know how much it holds so you know which resin to use.

Since you’re working in molds, you need to use a resin designed for those. We’ve got two. The one you use comes down to how much resin you’re mixing and pouring at once.

For pours of 3 ounces or less, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is what you want: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
For pours of 3 ounces or more, the Resin obsession deep pour casting resin works great: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin

If you need help figuring out how much resin you need, our free resin calculator can do it for you: https://resinobsession.com/resin-calculator/

You’ll need to put the shells in while the resin is still liquid. Otherwise, you’ll introduce bubbles that likely won’t come out before it begins curing.

If you can’t find a bowl mold, here’s an article showing how to put shells in a resin business cardholder: https://resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/diy-business-card-holder/

[Kristin]

Katherine do you have recommendations for the tinting combination? Do you recommend a fast curing resin that will have that clear finished look to use with this tint?
I’m a bit fearful to change the dye with the current resin. I’d prefer having two known goods vs more experimentation since these products ship all over the world!

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Paul,

If you’ve got a test piece, try that first with these steps:

1. Paint and let fully dry. As for the paint, I only have experience using acrylics.
2. Embed in a slow-curing resin. This is the one I use: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin

If the paint chips off, then seal with this before testing another piece: https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/envirotex-high-gloss-resin-sealer-spray-clear-spray-for-resin-finishing

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Dan,

Great questions! I’m glad to hear you’re taking safety seriously.

If your resin is under a box that the sun doesn’t penetrate and it’s in the shade, it will be fine. The resin is 90% cured in 12 hours, so you can bring it inside and demold at that time. Any fumes will be gone by then. The extra curing days let you get that bit of extra hardness.

Since you’ll be using the super clear resin in small volumes (3 ounces or less) outside, a respirator isn’t absolutely necessary, but I don’t want to discourage you from wearing it if it makes you feel safer. If you’re curious as to what I do for ventilation, there’s a video on this page: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/can-epoxy-resin-make-you-sick/

You don’t have to demold right away. I’ve left cured resin in molds for days before demolding. But, it will be formed enough to demold in a day. You can remove your cube from the mold, then set it aside for the other 6 days and use the mold for a new project.