[Katherine Swift]

Hi Courtney,

Any time you can create a resin ‘hot box’ in a cold room, that will definitely help with curing. This article will give you some ideas on how to cure resin in cold temperatures: https://resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/how-to-get-your-resin-to-cure-in-cold-weather/

I like to use the plastic cups in our store for resin mixing. You can buy them here:
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/1-ounce-reusable-plastic-mixing-cups
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/large-10-oz-reusable-resin-mixing-cups

There is a video on those pages that show how I like to clean cups to use them again.

As for the resin safety, it’s my opinion that you can never be too safe. This article details more about how to use resin safely: https://resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/epoxy-resin-safety-precautions/

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Jenny,

As long as your glue is fully dry before pouring resin, it won’t impact the curing or clarity. This is the one I recommend: https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/ultra-seal-sealant-and-glue

If you don’t seal the fabric before using it with resin, it can take up moisture stains and change colors.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Mone,

What a fun project! Unfortunately, any resin tray that falls on a floor with either dent or bend (soft curing resin) or will break (hard curing resin). Unfortunately, there isn’t one that does both.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Tom,

I think that’s as good a plan as any. You want everything to be as dry as possible so it doesn’t interfere with resin curing.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Gay,

I know we’ve also been in touch with this by email, but I wanted to answer you here too.

I can understand your concern about the length of curing time. It is normal for this resin to take 24 to 48 hours to start to harden. The thinner the pour, the longer curing will take. More details about this resin can be found as a part of the mixing instructions here: https://resinobsession.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Resin-Obsession-deep-pour-casting-resin-mixing-instructions.pdf.

To make sure this resin cures, you need to keep the curing area warm the entire time, which is 48 to 72 hours.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Betsy,

Welcome to the world of resin! I’d love to help you with this.

Unfortunately, all resins are going to yellow over time. Resins with UV inhibitors and stabilizers help extend the time before yellowing occurs. However, things such as mixing off ratio (even though it still can cure without tackiness), putting over an improperly cured lacquer, excessive heat, and or constant exposure to sunlight can speed up the yellowing process. How long the epoxy will last in its clear state is very difficult to predict.

As for the best resin, it depends on what you are making. There is no ‘one size fits all’ resin. Our resin buying guide details the resin we sell. You can get a copy here: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-buying-guide/

For what you want to make, you need a casting resin. These mix thin to allow bubbles to easily release. For pours of 3 ounces or less, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is what you want:  https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
For pours of 3 ounces or more, the Resin obsession deep pour casting resin works great:  https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin

A heat gun works great to remove surface bubbles. We have some in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/wow-embossing-multipurpose-heat-tool-heat-gun. This article also shares some of my best tips for handling bubbles in resin: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-bubbles/

Resin can break if it’s dropped on a hard surface. Softer-curing resins will dent and not break.

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Sydney,

It sounds like you are having a lot of fun with resin. Awesome!

There are a few different reasons why you can have bubbles in your resin. This article talks about the top 10: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-bubbles/. The two big things you can do to prevent bubbles:

1. Warm your resin kit in a hot water bath for 5 to 10 minutes before mixing and pouring. The warm resin makes it easier to mix without including bubbles and makes any remaining bubbles easier to release.
2. Gently warm your mold before pouring the resin. (You can use a heat gun or a toaster oven dedicated to resin projects). Pouring warm resin into a cold mold will trap bubbles that can release later.

The deep pour resin will give you better results if you want more time to get bubbles out of the resin before it starts to cure. You will have hours to do that versus minutes with the super clear.

The big difference between the two is that you should mix no more than three ounces of super clear resin at once. For the deep pour resin, you need to mix at least three ounces in order for curing to occur.

Here are both in our store:

Super clean resin: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
Deep pour resin: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin

Does this help?

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Caroline,

It sounds like you’ve done your homework. Good job!

Based on what you’ve shared here, I’m not sure Resin Obsession super clear resin will work for what you want to do. It hits gel time about 45 minutes after mixing. After that, it won’t shift and move anymore, but the problem here is that it mixes thin (like water). I don’t know that it will leave an even coating on the inside of your geode. Using a doming resin like the Resin Obsession crystal doming resin will coat more evenly, but will also pool at the bottom of your geode if it isn’t turning while the resin is curing.

Do you have an option to keep your geode moving? While the crystal doming resin cures more slowly, there are some things you can do to speed up resin curing: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/what-is-the-fastest-way-to-cure-epoxy-resin-speed-up-resin-curing/

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Grace,

Some resins, even when fully cured can be bendy. This article explains more: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/why-is-my-resin-bendy/

If you want to cure them in a hot box, they need to be there during the entire curing time. You can see what I’m talking about here: https://resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/cold-weather-resin-tips/

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Gerry,

What a neat project! Why do you want a slower curing resin? Is it so you will have extra time to form it?

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Kristi,

Yes, for some reason, it sounds like your resin is curing faster in the silicone mold than the plastic mold.

You will need to apply your next layer when the previous layer is in the gel phase. This article explains more: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/what-is-the-gel-time-of-resin/

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Merrily,

While you can use alcohol ink to color resin, too much will keep it from curing.

This article explains some other possibilities: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/12-reasons-why-your-resin-didnt-cure/

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Esther,

This is a great question!

I will use the Resin Obsession deep pour resin on my mold projects when I need to pour into a lot of molds at once. You can buy the resin here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin

This works provided you do the following:

1. Mix at least three ounces
2. Keep the resin casting area warm for the entire curing time.
3. Allow longer curing time for thinner molds, knowing it can take up to 3 days to be able to demold.

Does this help?

[Jen]

Good point! We definitely need to shield the uv light if using it often. I made a uv box with cardboard and tinfoil, very easy and no rays filter out. You can also just put a cardboard box upside down over the lamp. I have very cheap lamps that have lasted years already. The best uv wattage is 24 or 36. Lower and it could take 20 minutes or an hour or two to cure your piece. The box makes the curing more efficient as well. I put my piece on a little solar turntable I got for $4 and raise the lap a foot away from the piece. I also have a digital thermometer to check the temps.

The uv bulbs are the same in a $9 lamp and a $40 lamp. A watt is a watt. The LED bulbs do but they’re unnecessary for uv resin. The number of bulbs will increase, more $ = more bulbs. I’ve used the same $9 24w lamp for 8 years and it’s the same temp and cure rate now as then. You’ll cure faster with a more expensive lamp with more bulbs but it’ll also get hotter and give off more uv rays. Less bulbs and a box lined with tinfoil is safer and more efficient. The bulbs are said to last 50,000 hours. I don’t know about that, but 8+ years is pretty good.

I’m only talking about the uv nail lamps, not uv bulbs in general. I’m sure you’re probably right when talking about the expensive uv sources.

Jen

[Jen]

Hi Everyone,
I prefer epoxy resin for large projects, for all the stated reasons in this thread. But UV resin is useful in certain situations, and I always have some close by.

I buy small bottles, 50g or 100g. Store in an opaque cardboard box in a cool location. I use it occasionally and only in small amounts. The average cost is $10 for 100 grams. I like Hildie & Jo and if I have a Joann coupon that’s what I get. I’ve bought various other brands too, when there’s a sale, and haven’t had problems with any of them – the only difference will be the consistency. Some is thick like honey (great for doming) others are thinner, sort of like cheap maple syrup (excellent for coating/sealing) They all dry crystal clear. I’ve been using it for 8 years, at first for sealing polymer clay, then for tons of other small sized projects and none have yellowed or changed in any way. You can even try it out with a bottle of uv gel nails top coat and cure it under a uv nail lamp or the sun. You only need an inexpensive lamp. I have 2, my old 24w, $9 and a larger “2 hand” 36 watt I bought for $14. Make sure there’s no base or it’s detachable so you can have distance from your piece. I made a cheap uv box from cardboard and tinfoil but it’s not required.

Most important: Super thin layers – like you’re painting your nails. Cure between coats.
Let it sit at least 10 min, then pop bubbles with a needle, sit more, then cure.
If it’s sticky After curing, wipe with a bit of alcohol. Still sticky – cure more.

I’ve got tons of little tips and tricks but I don’t want to take over this thread! I’m sorry for how long my post is already :/

So UV resin is fun, inexpensive for small pieces, super fast and easy. Epoxy resin will always be what I use 75% of the time though. There’s simply no substitute.

Enjoy your day everyone, and be safe.
Jen