If you’re asking yourself, ‘What kind of resin should I use?’, let out a big sigh of relief. Because you’re in the right place to get that question answered.
And I get why you’re confused about what to buy. There are so many out there promising the life of pi in the sky. All the descriptions start sounding the same, and you don’t want to make a mistake. Or worse — waste your money buying the wrong stuff.
Hang with me. I’m going off-topic for a moment, but I PROMISE by the end of this article, you’ll know what kind of resin to use.
Let’s pretend you’re on your way to the office party potluck dinner, and you’ve signed up to bring a cake. You head to your favorite grocery, grab the first cake you see, and run off to the party. It’s only AFTER you’ve put it on the table and peoples’ eyes go wide that you see it’s a fruitcake.
Sorry, fruitcake lovers, but that stuff is gross.
And even worse, you’re now the butt of the office party jokes, and your secret Santa gets you fruitcake gifts for eternity.
Do you see how you need an idea of what you want the cake for before you ever buy the cake?
The SAME THING happens with resin.
So if you were to ask me, ‘What kind of resin should I use?’ I’ll reply with, ‘What are you making?’
Because you need to know WHAT you’re making with resin BEFORE you buy it.
Just like that fruitcake, no one formula works for every situation. And anyone who tells you differently is a nickel-plated duck dollop.
💡 Pro tip: If you’re a beginner, I cannot stress here enough that you need to start with an epoxy resin. Why? Relatively speaking, epoxy is the easiest to work with. It’s the most forgiving of beginner resin mistakes, plus it’s the easiest to mix and measure.
So now you may be asking yourself, “What kind of epoxy should I use?”
Once again, it depends on what you want your final project to look like. Here’s the BIG THING to know the answer to when choosing a specific epoxy:
Are you filling a space or coating a surface?
If you’re pouring it INTO something, like a mold or a space for a river table, you want a casting resin. These are low-viscosity resins that release bubbles easily that you can pour in thick layers. But because they mix watery, they will run off a surface, making fish eyes, so they aren’t suitable for countertops or artwork.
If you’re pouring resin ONTO something to create a glossy surface, you want a doming resin. This kind of coating epoxy is high-viscosity, so it evenly levels after applying to a surface. While it can run over the sides when added to a flat surface (for example — applying epoxy to a canvas print), it levels smoothly and gives a shiny finish. But, because it’s thick, it’s harder to remove bubbles. That’s why you don’t want to use it with resin molds or epoxy table projects.
⭐️ BONUS: If want to go down the resin rabbit hole on this stuff, I’ve got even more good stuff for you explaining the types of epoxy.
Like the differences between doming resins and deep pour epoxy
You’ll get all those details in our [FREE] Guide to Choosing a Resin
Awesome! You’ve picked a type. Now what?
If you’re wondering where you can buy clear epoxy, Resin Obsession has you covered. Choose from multiple formulas to help you make something amazing.
And this RESIN QUIZ makes it easy to know which formula you need.
Which epoxy should you use?
Learn which epoxy resin is the best one for YOUR project.
Now to be completely honest here, what we sell might be more than you need.
Like if crafting with resin is just a bucket list thing, then any resin can help you make that.
You don’t need one with
✅ top-notch UV protection
✅ the highest safety level designation
✅ made in small batches to give you the freshest product possible.
That big box store stuff that’s been there so long it looks like a doctor’s office urine specimen (might) work for a bucket list project.
But buy resin and supplies from Resin Obsession, and you’ll get the clearest, freshest stuff possible.
And as an added bonus, our resin kits are blessed with kitty kisses. At no charge.
If epoxy is so great, why would I use anything else?
Once you’ve got advanced skills, there are a couple of other formulas to try.
You might want to make a resin project that cures quickly.
In that case, you will want to use a quick-curing polyurethane. These usually fully harden in under thirty minutes, so you can make a project and have it ready to use or wear in under an hour. Unfortunately though, this formula is very moisture sensitive. Any amount of water will make the resin bubble and cure looking like a sponge. It’s also not a type I recommend for beginners since you only have 1 to 1 1/2 minutes to mix and pour it before it starts curing.
If you’re working in molds, you might want to try a polyester.
These resins cure hard and are generally cheaper than epoxy. But they STINK and don’t have a long shelf life. If you want to try it, here’s what else you should know before using polyester resin.
Want more help getting started?
It’s why I wrote the ebook, Resin Fundamentals. I designed it for beginners to get you from confused to confident in only an afternoon. Buy the PDF book now and get a download link in minutes.
Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2023 Resin Obsession, LLC
Very informative, loved it. Thank you.
In case anyone else is a painter and is interested in what I use to coat paintings – I use Environtex lite and it comes out beautiful every time. I have coated small paintings as well as large 3’x4′ ones. Not a great idea to do on a wrapped canvas as pooling occurs.
What is the difference between Environtex lite and Clear Polyester Casting Resin by Castin’ Craft? I am a painter and I am looking into what’s best to coat my canvas paintings. Something that will give it a “glass topping” look. Thanks!
Hi Katherine!
I’m looking for something to coat on already finished jewellery pieces, sterling silver and titanium steel rings with cubic zirconia stones to prevent the stones from falling out.
I would like this coating to dry crystal clear so as not to affect the shine of the metak or stones.
Do you know o any coating that would do this?
Thanks!
You want the resin to go over top of the stones? I ask because that will make them less ‘sparkly’ because the light will refract differently doing through a coat of resin first.
Loved the details u gave so minutely about resin n its types Katherine. Thanx for sharing all this info. Do u know the answers to these Qs?
1- Hw to get UV protection in resin? Any method?
2- Details about silicone resin and acrylic resin? Pot time, cure time, sensitivity, temperature, etc?
3- Hw to clean the pot n brush used to mix n apply resin? Can the same pot n brush be used again for resin mixing n application?
4- If ease release spray is not available then what can be used?
5- If we apply resin on half side of surface n then after drying apply on the other half side, would there be a seperating line formed between both sides after drying or curing of both sides?
6- For the 2nd coat, only waiting for drying is enough or should wait for 7 days until entire curing of 1st coat is done?
I’m happy to help! Here are answers with numbers that correspond to your questions:
1. To get UV protection in resin, you need to buy it that way. That notation should be included in the product listing. If you don’t see it, ask the manufacturer.
2. Every resin is different in terms of pot time, cure time, etc. You will need to get the specifics from the manufacturer of the resin you want to use.
3. We have a video on our youtube channel showing how to clean resin:
https://youtu.be/17Ixaa0Lw6o
4. Vaseline can work as a release, but it may leave marks on your casting.
5. Yes.
6. Waiting until the second coat is dry, not fully cured, is sufficient for applying a second coat.
What is the coverage (sq ft) on the Total Clear Resin 70 ounce kit?
Approximately 40 square feet
The big differences between epoxy and polyester rein is the expansion and contraction under temperatures changes. Polyester is more brittle and is more sensitive to temperatures change, meaning will crack easiy. Epoxy has more options and types.
bubbles…some of the clear brands are bad for bubbling…so you have to get out the alcohol burner..pressure pot or whatever way to fight the bubble war. Then again some products don’t bubble as bad.
I’m a beginner at this. I’m filling small 6×6 acrylic boxes. Only needs to be 1/2 inch thick. So from the great info above I need to use polyester resin. Clarity is important and no bubbles. A logo is on the bottom of the box that will be covered with 1/2 resin
Hi Kim, you can also use a deep pour epoxy resin for a project like this. It cures slowly and bubble-free. You can get deep pour epoxy resin kits here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
This is a really good video to see the tinting with UV exposure
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzIxcIqCNh8
Hi Tracy, unfortunately all resins are going to yellow with UV light exposure. While that video shows experimental conditions, it cannot account for every experience resin may face when used in a practical setting. While I think the results can be used as a guide, users need to understand and test the resin they are using to see if it’s going to work for their specific needs.
I just wanted to point out that you should still be using a respirator/mask of some sort at least (I’m not an expert so maybe stick with a respirator) when working with epoxy resin. It can still irritate your lungs, especially if you react to it! Check out Epoxy is Not My Friend on Facebook.
Hi, I wanted to make dried flower jewelry resin. One that is super clear, minimal bubbles, and one that doesn’t take out the color out of the flowers. Do you know which would be best? Thanks!
Hi Amy, properly drying and preserving the flowers are what’s essential to keeping the color in them. We have a few articles on how to do that here: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
Which resin is better for casting Prosthesis & orthosis?
What would you recommend for starter projects like a cutting board or jewelry dish.
Hi Amber, we have a couple of beginner kits in our store here to help you get started: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/all-in-one-kits
Hi Katherine! You seem to be somewhat of an expert in all things resin. I have only ever used epoxy resin, but I am now making jewelry that are around 1/8 inch thick at most. My epoxy resin seems to only cure soft at that thickness. What resin type would you suggest I use to make something near that thick but be around as hard as glass? Please help.
Hi Derik, are you making jewelry in molds or bezels? That will best help me with a resin recommendation.
I make them in molds or thin sheets and carve/ sand the shape out myself.
Hi Derik, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is a good choice for a project like this. You can find it in several sizes in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
I appreciate the specific link you sent, but I was asking the type that would work best for this. Epoxy seems to be too soft for thin projects like this.
Hello Katherine! Thank you for all the info on the topic. I want to make personalized phone cases, the idea is to paint a clear plastic phone case with acrylic paint and then coat it with resin. What resin do you think would suit this work the best? I’m sorry if my english is not the best, i’m not a native speaker
Hello Valeria, for a project like this, I would use the Resin Obsession crystal doming resin. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-crystal-doming-resin
I want to put an old dried out rose on display in a sort of beauty and the beast type thing but in a tall square exposy/resin cast and very clear as a gift, I keep reading different articles because this is my first project ever using any resin and I would love some tips and help if you have any? I was wondering what type you would recommend to use?
Hi K, we have beginner tips here: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/beginner/. As for a resin, the Resin Obsession deep pour epoxy casting resin will work great. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
Hi i have a question. I use Amazing clear cast. I make trays and coaster and cups. I have a problem where on my trays some of the resin gets on the back after I have painted it…how do I prevent this and how do I get it off. Also I normally have so much left over I do i measure it correctly
Hi Jan, it sounds like you need to tape off the back with painters’ tape.
I need help! I’m still confused.
I am a first time resin user, I want to do an art project with resin but I still do not know which one to use. What I had in mind, is that I want to make a cube. I’m thinking of starting small like a cube with all sides being 7.5cm long. I want the resin to be crystal clear. Which kind of resin would be best for me?
Hi Victor, for a project like this, the Resin Obsession deep pour resin works great. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
Enjoyed your article. I bought Envirotex Lite high gloss resin. It was poured over stained glass pieces of glass glued to a window pane. I mixed exactly 1 to 1 as described and it did not totally harden. My research says I have to apply another coat but I am very nervous about doing so because I do not want to ruin my piece. It took a long tine to make. Do you have any suggestions.
Hi Joan, it’s been my experience that Envirotex Lite cures bendy. This article explains more: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/why-is-my-resin-bendy/
Can you use different resins in multiple coats. ie. start with Poly resin let cure and than coat over the top with epoxy resin?
I am trying to get a hard plastic like rigid shiny finish on real dried orchids?
@Rich, I have layered with different brands of epoxy, but have never put epoxy over polyester for example. If you want to try, I would suggest experimenting with a couple of practice pieces first.
How many polyresin layers will it take to create hard glass like feel to coat real flower petals?_
By polyresin, do you mean polyester resin?
Does anyone kow of any reactions between uv resin and metal (copper in particular) and where to find the info. As when using them together recently the resin hasn’t been curing like normal and ends up rather sticky and still liquid inside???
Im a beginner to resin and want to embed bottle caps and make some coasters. I had the Easy Cast-which was prob at least a year old, and worked well. Low bubbles and nice and clear. I ran out, so I bought the Envirotex Lite-pour on. This is not as clear and full of bubbles. Is this the wrong type of resin for my project? What brand would you recommend or how can I clear up all the littles bubbles the muddled my coasters? Thanks!!
The best remedy for those pesky bubbles in the use of a blow torch. Works in instantly. removes them like magic. Just swipe over quickly. I’m told using a straw works good too.
I am using silicone molds and want to make make up trays, food trays, jewelry boxes and other gifts that use molds some are thick and some are not. I want it to be clear and hard like glass not rubbery what should I use?
Hi Mia, for pours of 3 ounces or less, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is what you want: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
For pours of 3 ounces or more, the Resin obsession deep pour casting resin will work: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
The Envirotex is really meant to be more of a coating. It was probably too thick for the mold. Unfortunately, there is no way to clear up the bubbles in a casted product once it’s cured.
Hi Katherine,
Sorry I am posting this here, but I can’t get my computer to work on the forums….(something I’m doing wrong, I am sure).
I am trying to figure out something to coat some flat copper or brass blank sheets with. I’m going to use these as bases to pendents which I’m gluing random items onto. Since the flat metal sheet bases I’m using are unfinished I figured it would be nice to coat all of, or at least the back of it with an epoxy resin so that the person wearing it wouldn’t get an allergic reaction or have the piece tarnish due to sweat if the back was touching their skin.
Do you think epoxy resin would work for this?
Thank you so so much for your help!
-Kristina
Kristina,
I think epoxy resin would work very well for this. A few other things come to mind as well for possible use: wax (I like Renaissance wax), acrylic spray, maybe even mod podge??
Thank you so much for the response Katherine.
For Renaissance wax, if I were to use it on raw brass or copper – do you know how long it “stays” for? I’m assuming it wears off over time, is that an accurate assumption on my part?
Thanks again. You are the most helpful person I’ve found on the internet. And it’s a big world out here!
I’ll for sure be using this store in my near future.
Kristina,
I have used the Renaissance wax in the past to seal my sterling silver and resin pendants and have been quite pleased with the results. I always suggested to my customers that they clean with a soft cloth and a mild soapy water if necessary. I would suspect putting a good grease cutting soap on the pendant would take the wax off. I suppose with regular wear it would eventually need recoating, but I can’t tell you exactly when that might be. Glad I could be of help. 🙂
Hello Katherine,
Based on the comment above by Kelly, I am thinking that the Easy Cast is the best for my project because I am trying to cover a table top with bottle caps, but I just wanted to double-check it will hold up as well as a polyester one, that sounds like it is harder?? Many thanks!!
Chelsea,
It depends. If you’re looking at a layer of 1/8″ or less, I would go with the Envirotex. It’s meant for table top coatings, so it might be fine for your project. It will show some wear sooner than an table top poured with polyester, but it’s certainly easier to work with.
You could pound the caps flat with a mallet to make them thinner.
What resin to use??? I want to do a beach scene on canvas, using acrylic paint, glass, sand, small shells, etc. I’ve NEVER used resin, because not sure how to do this. Thanks for any answers you can give me.
Hi Judy, for a project like this, you want to use the Resin Obsession artwork resin. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-artwork-resin
Hello, I’m trying to make Apple Watch bands. I have the molds but not sure which resin to use that will cure and still be flexible. Is this even possible? I’m new to all this as you can probably tell 🙂
Hi Aimee, you need to use silicone resin for your project.
Hi Katheryn
I am a beginner too, can you advise what resin for a wooden bar top? I am painting the wooden top black and coating it in gold leaf sheets And I wanted to place resin over it. It’s quite a large room that can be ventilated. Thanks
Hi Ben, our artwork resin works great for a project like this. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-artwork-resin
I want to cover a 3 foot diameter table with a clear resin. It will be going over small pebbles to make a table for outdoors. What would be my best option? A beginner, but I like to try new things.
Hi there, I’m wanting to start making resin charms with easy cast resin. Ill be working in a room that has an outside door, two large opening windows and two smaller windows. Ill make sure to open them when i use the resin. However I’m worried, will I need a mask? I live in the UK, and I have no idea what to look for in UK masks? Do you have any suggestions? Please help.
@Kerri, that should be enough ventilation for you if it’s the Easy Cast Epoxy resin. I don’t think it’s any more bothersome than using fingernail polish.
I’ve made a bunch of posts all over the place… I live in Maui and have had a hard time finding the materials I need. The only epoxy resin I can find is Parks Super Glaze. Do you have any feedback about this brand? It says it’s “ultra-thick.” Will this give me any problems with casting in molds?
And thanks for answering all my other questions I posted elsewhere! Really appreciate it… 🙂
You seem to be the Answer Lady! You have much wisdom and willing to share. Bless You & may Your kindness return to You & Yours 100 fold! I have a curious need. I am trying to ‘fill in’ the letters in a stepping stone my friend made me with ‘Beckys Place 2013’ drawn in concrete. I want to color pink resin and place 4mm darker pink swarovski chatons into the pour. Should I use the Envirotex Lite?
Hi Katherine,
I’m interested in making my own hair sticks using photographs I’ve printed on photo paper and cust out. What is the best type of resin to use to great a clear glossy surface that is also hard enough to use for a hair stick? Also, what method would you recomend for applying the resin? Domming or layering? Thanks!
Birgitta
@Birgitta,
I would suggest the Castin’ Craft epoxy resin. It is a doming resin and should layer nicely on your sticks. https://www.resinobsession.com/ItemPage/5857/Easycast–Clear-Casting-Epoxy-8-oz-kit-Restricted-Shipping.html
I would like to fill a ceramic or earthenware bezel with resin. Which resin would work with this (or would it work)? Would the interior of the bezel need to be glazed or unglazed? Many thanks! Kristina
Hi Katherine
I am using CR20 Polyester Casting Resin and adding a pigment paste to the mixture. I have used the 1% catylyst to the resin and also doubled it as it is only 150 ml tester mould. The mould was then put in a vacuum pot, air bubbles forced out. The results were interesting in both cases..the resin never really became solid…peeling off the brass pen tubes..!!
I then bought some pigment paste from the same supplier as the resin they manufactured. This time it still had not fully hardened under final turning on the lathe.. but was better than first two experiments..
Could the problem be the pigment paste causing problems with the setting agent.. as I use Pearlex Powders to enhance my casts adding pine cones for example ..no problems at all..
I read on your blog somewhere that this can happen with using pigment paste.. If it does can you use powders to alter colour of resin..and does it work as well forming a solid colour..ie Ultramarine??
Thank you
@Ziggy,
I don’t have any experience with that kind of polyester casting resin. My first thought is that there is too much moisture to allow the polyester resin to fully cure. Have you talked to the manufacturer? Since you’re using their resin and pigment paste, I would think they would have some good recommendations for you.
Yes, you can use powder colorants, but unfortunately, you can’t mix two powder colors to make a new color. If ultramarine is what you want, then you need to add a ultramarine powder.
@Kristina,
I would say most any epoxy resin would work for this project. How big is the vessel? I might make a specific choice based upon the volume of resin you need.
As for glazed or unglazed, glazed would be preferable if the unglazed pottery changes its look when it gets wet.
Excuse my but I ask my dad to buy me a v for vendatta mask that is made from resin but he refuses saying that resin is bad for your skin and those selling on ebay are for display only. What is he talking about and since all of v for vendatta are made from resin? Thanks.
Excuse my but I ask my dad to buy me a v for vendatta mask that is made from resin but he refuses saying that resin is bad for your skin and those selling on ebay are for display only. What is he talking about and since all of v for vendatta are made from resin? Thanks.
@Alan,
Once resin is mixed, it is inert and shouldn’t cause any problem to your skin unless you are extra sensitive to it.
Hello Katherine,
I’m looking for polyurethane doming resin but struggling to find a place to purchase. It will be poured over vinyl decal then mounted on a car. Due to the sun exposure, I believe polyurethane is the way to go. No yellowing, flexible & no cracking. Can you name some brands & online retailer. I tried Arts & Crafts places but only found Epoxy. Thank you
@Ignant,
Try the folks at smoothon.com. They have a large selection of polyurethane resins that should be able to meet your needs.
Hi Katherine, I’m wanting to make some cameo necklaces and was wondering if epoxy resin would be alright? I’m a newbie to anything like this I’ve never used it before. Thanks
@Chloe,
Yes, epoxy resin would work. You will need to do two pours: one for the ivory pegasus and one for the black background.
Hello, I am a thinking of using polyurethane for my first time, because i do not want yellowing or bubbles that may happen with epoxy. (from reading your thread) Plus I live in Idaho, very dry, but cold right now…if i open windows and fan would it be ok?
Also you say epoxy is best for beginners (me), will it turn out clear, glass like without bubbles if im just making simple objects like coasters and coffee bean jar lids, etc. Its so expensive and i dont want to buy the wrong one, lol. These will be items I will sell in my craft booth.
Thank you!!
@stacie,
You will need to follow the safety directions for the polyurethane you use. Some require respirators whereas others do not. (By the way, just because you can’t smell dangerous fumes doesn’t mean they are not there.) Since you’re a beginner, I will strongly suggest starting with an epoxy resin. The Resin Obsession super clear would be great for what you’re trying to accomplish. It casts super clear and bubbles are almost never a problem.
I’m thinking of making cabochons/decoden for a phone case and I am putting the resin in a mold. Should I use epoxy resin for this? And what brand would be good? And if I want it glossy should I purchase a glaze? Sorry for all the questions x
I am a newbie venturing into the world of resin(jewellery) & after a long search have stumbled on this site. Your answers seem so informative & knowledgeable, I was wondering if you could help me? I have decided to use epoxy resin as I am new to this aspect of craft & its properties seem to tick most of the boxes, however, I am worried that it may discolour, cause irritation to piercings (as it may come into direct contact with them) and ideally I would like to be able to waterproof the finished piece. Are there any varnishes/coatings that would allow the finished product to be hypoallergenic, waterproof & have long lasting colour/clarity? Thank you so much in advance, Kind regards, Hannah
@Katalina,
You will need a strong resin that will be somewhat impact resistant. I would suggest either the Resin Obsession super clear epoxy resin or the Alumilite Amazing casting polyurethane resin. As long as the mold for your case was produced with a shiny template, your casting should come out shiny as well.
I am planning on building a bar top for my Daiquiri Shop. I have purchased 8 foot bamboo poles that I want to lace together and then cast in Resin. I plan on building a large box mold out of melemine and adding my bamboo and then filling it. It will be over 1 inch thick, but the bamboo will fill most of the area. My question is, what type of resin do you recommend for a clear pour and that can be removed from the mold and is halfway durable. Also, do you have any experience cutting a fully cured cast? Can it be cut on a table saw? Thanks so much. Just found this website and have enjoyed your suggestions.
Thanks
@Hannah,
I don’t know of any coatings that would specifically make resin hypoallergenic, but if it has cured properly, it shouldn’t cause an allergy problem for the great majority of people. You may want to go with a jewelry quality resin, like the Resin Obsession super clear resin, which is designed for people to use for wearable jewelry.
Hi Katherine, I have learned so much just reading your answers to all the other questions–thank you!
I want to make pebble soap dishes, using just enough water proof resin to hold the pebbles together (i.e. I don’t plan to fully embed the pebbles in the resin, so water can drain through the pebbles.) What resin would be the best choice?
Thanks!
Hi Katherine,
I have a bunch of questions regarding EasyCast resin.Can you kindly help me? I am considering selling resin jewelry on Etsy. Can I sell EasyCast resin based jewelry on Etsy? Is EasyCast resin toxic after drying? I had followed a couple of your videos about epoxy resin and was highly motivated to make some.But in Germany, I did not get epoxy resin so I made some polyester resin jewelry, but it was too cumbersome so I dropped the idea, although they looked wonderful. I wanted to try an alternative, may be EasyCast. Please suggest.
Thank you,
Sumona.
@Sumona,
Yes, Easy Cast is safe once it’s cured and is good for jewelry.
Hey there! I have just started painting some abstract acrylic art & would like to put a high glass/shiny coat over the top-However, most of the colors that I am using are neutrals-So I can’t afford to risk the yellowing…What would you suggest that I use?
Hi Katherine 🙂
I haven’t started yet, but primarily interested in resin Pyramids. I ordered Easy Cast epoxy, but as I’m reading, I feel like it’s not going to set up in a larger mold? My molds are 3-4 inches at base.
Also, wanted to know how to layer them, to make chakras. I read that basic food coloring will work. How to do the layering? Would I need to wait 24 hours between each layer?? UGH. I don’t have a place where I could use poly resins. 🙁 I have some really great ideas, though. What is your advice on this?
Thank you so much for this site!
@Shannon, The Easy Cast should work fine, but don’t use food coloring. Resin doesn’t like water! To do the layers, you don’t have to wait until they are completely cured, just cured enough that the two layers won’t blend. Two to three hours between layers should be fine.
Hello! I make antler and bone jewelry. I am looking for a thick durable coating for my pendants. It needs to be crystal clear and shiny. I affix gemstones to the bone and antler cross sections and then cover them. So far I have used poly, but I don’t like how toxic it is and it takes a lot of layers to get even a thin coating. What would you suggest? Thanks in advance for your time and help!
Hi Katherine!
I work for a company that sells and makes their own body jewelry (ever see those kids with the big holes in their ears?) I follow your blog as a guideline, yet I can’t get my resin to come out clear. We make image plugs, which consist of either an acrylic or steel base. I then cut out an image and lay it into the blank and coat it in resin to give it a dome. I’m having trouble with bubbles and my resin not looking clear. I’m using Max 1618 Impregnating Resin. Is my resin the problem? Are there differences between the kind I’m using and regular resin? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!
@Taylor, I’m not familiar with that resin. I would suggest contacting that manufacturer for tech support.
@Julie, does your project have ‘sides’ or not?
I am making art projects with pieces of broken glass and glass beads on canvas. What is the best type of epoxy resin to use to coat all the glass pieces and seal them into place? I want everything to be clear (no yellowing or bubbles).
thanks!
Hi Katherine
I’m wanting to experiment with pendants which would effectively be a thick silver bezel with a silver back. I want to pour the resin into the pendant cup half way, then set some shell into the half set resin and top it up with a resin top coat. The amounts I will need at a time will be very very small. On the same principle, can you mix sand with resin to give a rough appearance rather than a shiny one, and what would be the best type both these applications. Thank you for your help.
Sizzler
@Sizzler, you can add sand to resin, but it’s still going to finish with a glossy surface. You can see what I mean in this tutorial: https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-Tutorials/248/Seashell-resin-jewelry-and-magnets.html If you want a matte surface, I would suggest going over the surface with a 600 or higher grit sandpaper.
Hi Katherine. I want to make a wood tea tray and embed sea glass, pebbles & pottery shards. Have never used resin and the posts I find related to this type of project are contradictory. The Easy Cast is limited to amount that can be poured, and the polyester types seem to need a respirator and special shop. Can you help me figure out what kind of resin to use? This will be a usable tray, not just a decorative one. Thank you for your help!
I am making a bottle cap epoxy table top. I used Parks Supr Glaze to start, but am finding that I need more than I originally thought. I have to cover the initial coatings with more epoxy to make it completly level and blemish free. Will it be OK if I switch to a different brand of clear coat epoxy for the next coat, or will the 2 different brands react badly together?
@Tom, It has been my experience that if you put ‘like’ on ‘like’, i.e. epoxy on epoxy, you will most likely be okay.
Hi I would like to pour resin inside a wooden vessel to make it watertight so that it can be used as a vase. I can build up layers or maybe pour some and turn the lathe on to spin the resin onto the inside walls if that will work.
Please kindly suggest the best product for this use,thank you.
@Robert, I’m sorry to say that resin isn’t suitable for what you would like to accomplish.
Oh hello!! I really hope you can help me! I’ve spent hours researching epoxies and still am not sure what will work best. I’m leaning toward Hardman Double-Bubble Green, but it doesn’t list “wood” which might be a problem. I am not a crafter, so I need a lot of help…
My 4-year-old daughter (now in heaven) fought cancer for 2.5 years and “earned” a glass bead for each and every procedure she went through. I want to display them on my wall, so I bought a window (the one that would flank a front door). I hot-glued each bead down on the wooden back, and eventually the glass top will sit over it. However, the glass beads come off with a little hand pressure, and I know a few will fall off when the project is upright on the wall (which is unacceptable). Someone told me to cover it with “liquid glass” or epoxy. This project means a great deal to me emotionally, so I can’t mess it up because I can’t go back and get 1265 beads.
So I need a CLEAR epoxy/resin/?/ that will hold little glass beads to a backing that is partially hot glue/partially wood. There ARE wood sides to the project. I don’t intend for the beads to be fully submerged, as there will be a glass window on top eventually. What would you recommend? Thank you very much! (feel free to email me if you’d like.)
I should also add, I’d like it to be a glossy finish, but because some of the beads will probably be sticking up through the epoxy/resin, sanding won’t be an option. (The beads are all different sizes). Again, thank you so much.
@Annabeth, I’m very sorry to hear that you have lost a child. That must be very hard for you. Instead of using resin, have you thought about just using a different adhesive for the beads? I would suggest our E6000 adhesive. https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/e-6000-jewelry-adhesive-glue-for-jewelry-findings It will hold better than the hot glue.
Hi Katherine, yes, I have thought about using a different glue. It would just require many hours to pull up each individual bead, pick off the glue beneath it, and reglue it. I should have just used a better glue to begin with. I was hoping to save time by just pouring something over them, but perhaps i just need to spend another 10 hours re-glueing.
Will that E6000 adhesive glue glass to wood? Just verifying!! Thank you for your help.
@Annabeth, yes E6000 will work for wood.
Hi Katherine,
I’m wanting to make resin castings for plugs for my ears as in body jewelry. I need to know if resin is too toxic to do this? Any suggestions would welcomed! 🙂
Thanks,
Venita
@Venita, Once the resin is cured, it is fine for it to come in contact with the skin.
Hi Katherine,I saw in a earlier post that you suggested Resin Obsession super clear epoxy resin or Alumilite Amazing Casting Polyurethane resin to make cabochons. Are any one of these resins harmful.
Do they have a strong odor.
@Keshia, Most epoxies don’t have a strong odor, but polyesters do. Some polyurethanes do as well.
@Keshia, I would suggest becoming familiar with the MSDS information on the resins you would like to use. Part of that information includes health and safety guidelines.
I have what may be a goofball question: I’m experimenting with casting for the first time to make Halloween decorations- specifically a lifesize skull that I want to add LEDs to to create a glowing effect. I’m new to casting and on a budget and the prices for resin were a bit of a shock. My question is can I use off the shelf Polyurethane (i.e. clear Minwax) to do this? I have a silicone mold that’s currently curing. Also due to volume of material to fill a large cast, I’m attenpting a mold within a mold- I sculpted a ‘brain’ that I’ll make a silicone mold of and insert inside the skull mold. My thought is that I’ll be using less fill volume (will be semi-hollow) and create a cool 3-D see thru effect. But back to the central question: Minwax is Polyurethane right, so can it be used to cast? I was also curious if the Castin’ Craft catalyst would improve curing the Minwax?
@Rob, Minwax is meant to be a coating (e.g. for a bartop). It’s not meant to be used in a mold. You should also only use catalyst designed for the specific resin. The Castin’ Craft catalyst would not work with the minwax resin.
I use an epoxy resin from Little Windows.com The reasin is easy to use and dries hard and clear like glass. Its by far the best I’ve seen for ease of use for beginners and those who are experienced. 🙂
@Patricia, We have a discussion on this in our forum: https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-Jewelry-Making-Forum/5/How-can-I-……/Help-embedding-a-spider/125.html
Hi, I am interested in “preserving” a black widow spider in resin for a paperweight. I am a complete novice on this. It will probably be about 2 to 2 1/2 inches thick squared (or so). Which resin type would work for that? How do I go about “drying” the spider without the large part of it’s body shriveling up? Any info on this?I would really appreciate it! thanks, Pat
Hi Katherine, I’m a novice in resin and just as much a novice on the computer – i couldn’t figure out how to get to the forum?..I have watched some you tube videos??but specifically?.have not seen anything about spiders in resin??.I have read that the spider has to be dryed, but when that happens, the body shrivels up??any information you can pass along would be appreciated. Thanks,
@Pat, cut and paste the link from my post above into a new browser tab to get to the forum post.
Hi. I live on the Big Island of Hawaii and have found a product by fiberglasshawaii.com 2:1 clear epoxy resin. It is less than 50bucks at ACE hardware for the catalyst and a quart of the resin, so I thought I would give it a try. I plan on using it for making orgone. Any experience with this product?
@Rebecca, unfortunately, I don’t have any experience with that product.
I want to use resin pebble tile. I dont know how to use. I stay in goa and here the climate is too humid. Kindly suggest. I have pebbles where in i want to make a tile out of it.
@Anupama, You may want to use a space dehumidifier while you’re working to allow for better curing.
Hi Katherine! Thank you for your expertise and for sharing it with all of us! What a blessing and a gift! I am new to resin so I understand to use an epoxy. I have an old window. I want to create a 3d effect design by using random broken or cut pieces of glass onto the existing window frame. I’m not sure if I should first glue my pieces onto the window and then pour an epoxy resin over to coat, or if I should first pour my resin onto the window frame and then place my pieces of glass into the resin? Can you tell me your opinion and which resin would be best for this project? Many thanks to you!
@Starr, I would glue the pieces down first. Be sure to coat the back of the piece well with glue so that you have a good adhesion across the entire surface. Doing it the other way would probably still work, but there’s a greater risk of trapped bubbles rising up later in your resin.
Hi Katherine!!! You are fantastic and so informative :-)…thank you for you info and the answers to other peoples questions which where also helpful however I won’t to build a table top (no surface to start with) out of resin and mosaic tiles then later attaching it to a cast iron base…what resin do you recommend? How can I build the surface for it without the resin sticking to it (a box frame covered with wax paper)? How thick should I make it? Will I be able to smooth the edges after it cures? Many thanks for your time 😉
@Kathryn, since you’re pouring the resin into a mold, I would suggest our Resin Obsession super clear resin. The resin won’t stick to wax paper, but your box is going to get heavy. Make sure it has good support while curing. The thickness is your choice, but you will be able to sand it to smooth out any rough edges after it has cured.
I have attempted to use resin in small molds for jewelry. I used alumilite and it cured way too quickly as I barely was able to get it out of the cup after the instructed mixing time. Is there a resin with a longer working time? A few bubbles are not a big deal to me, but the little bit I was able to get out was filled with bubbles.
Hi Ms.K! I’m love your dye products! I purchase them from you all the time! I have a concern about epoxy resin. I have a online store and I make funky jewelry using different shaped resin molds. I like epoxy resin for all of the reason you’ve listed and I’ve been crafting with it for a year now. But I want to find a type of clear casting epoxy resin that will harden like glass. Is there such s thing as that? I mean my pieces come out nicely cured but I want something that will be rock hard and easy to work with that wont eat up my glitter and dye I put into it.
@AMH, have you tried the Resin Obsession super clear resin? It works great in molds, cures clear and very hard.
@RebeccaG, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is designed for molds and has a 30 minute working time. Bubbles are almost never a problem. It won’t cure as fast as the Alumilite resin you used, but it will be cured within 24 hours.
Hi, I am making a base( almost 2 1/2″ with resin to insert a cylindrical lamp and I have used FAMOWOOD. This is the second time I use it and perhaps it is clear like glass, it always become yellow as it is curing. I also used resin releaser this time, instead of oil like I was told and I bought it at Michaels. Any idea of why it becomes so yellow? and is it going to work to release this kind of material?
Thank you
@Heather, unfortunately, I’m not familiar with that brand of resin. Some resins will yellow with time, especially if it’s not one designed for resin jewelry and crafts. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer.
Katherine I have just painfully striped and painted 3 stacking tables. I used Americana Metalic paint. These tables will be used for guests to set plates and sweating drink glasses on. Would the Minwax be my best choice to coat table tops to prevent stains but not change the color? I have dozens of coasters but some friends and family just ignore them. Please help. Thank you, Kathy
Hi Kathy, I’m afraid I don’t have enough experience with wood stains and waxes to know whether or not this is a good choice.
Hi Katherine, thank you so much for that very clear and easy to understand explanation about the different types of resins. I was wondering if the epoxy resin would be the right product to use to make furniture appliqués in silicone molds? Also, I’ve seen that some of the appliqués that they sell on Ebay are made of resin and “wood fillers”. Do you know what type of wood filler can be safely mixed with resin? Can sawdust be mixed with epoxy resin for these appliqués?
Thank you!
@Linda, I would use a very hard curing epoxy or even a polyurethane resin. Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with wood fillers. Sawdust will take up ‘water stains’ when mixed with resin, unless it is sealed first.
Dear Katherine you seem to know a lot about resins. I want to make A5 paper sheet sized clear panels about 10mm thick with jewellery and other gubbins set in them. What would be best to use, I have never used resin before. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Do you have a mold for your project or will you be using A5 paper sheet as your template?
Dear Katherine thanks for your reply. I intend to make a mould. Essentially a frame on a board lined with polythene and grease agent. Arrange items in frame and then pour over resin. What do you think?
Chris
Using a good mold release will help. Will you be able to take apart your mold box? Since you won’t be able to flex it, I wonder how you will get out your casting.
The polythene would lift off and that’s how I envisage removing plate. Gonna practice with it but what type of resin should I use.
Thanks
Chris
Hi Katherine – I am trying to embed objects in a large casting in a glass container, two layers with the object sitting on the 1st cured layer. I am using a Polyester Resin with a Catalyst but am having issues with the casting getting very hot and then discolouring from clear to a yellowish colour. Can you advise if this discolouring can be controlled along with the heat by reducing the Catalyst – does a larger casting need a lower amount of Catalyst? Thanks in advance!
@Richard, I’m afraid the yellowing is a normal occurrence with polyester resin, although I don’t usually see this right away. You might try adding less catalyst. The amount you need depends on the thickness of the casting.
@Sandy, I would think so, but can’t be absolutely sure since I’m not a chemist. I would suggest checking directly with your resin manufacturer to be positive.
Hi Katherine~I make replica foods for museums and historic houses, and have long used museum-safe materials like air-dry clays, papier mache, acrylic paints, etc., due to concerns about off-gassing and potential damage to period pieces. Having recently used polyurethane resins for an outdoor food display, I was relieved to see your comment that, once cured, resin is inert. I cast small fish in resin. Once thoroughly cured, they were sealed with an acrylic sealer; painted and shaded with acrylic paints; then given another final coat of acrylic sealer. Do you think encapsulating cast/cured resin pieces in museum-safe acrylic sealers should nullify curatorial concerns about off-gassing? Many thanks.
I’ve been using epoxy over wood tables but it doesn’t seem to get hard enough. I have an extremely large tree that I am planning to cut up horizontally into round stump cuts….where you can see all the rings….. and need the best, hardest, cheapest, product available to cover them. Any suggestions?
I am on facebook Kelly Palmer, {the Tamaha giant} in case you want to see pictures of what I am doing.
@Kelly, what resin have you been using?
Do you mind if I quote a couple of your posts as long as I prodvie credit and sources back to your site?My blog site is in the exact same area of interest as yours and my visitorswould genuinely benefit from some of the information youprodvie here. Please let me know if this ok with you.Regards!
Hi Katherine,
I’m using Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy, however I noticed that it has a slight yellow tinge to it. Would you have any recommendations for epoxy resins that dry completely colourless? Thanks!
@Apple, if you are pouring the resin into molds, I would suggest the Resin Obsession super clear resin. It dries crystal clear. No yellow!
Hi Katherine,
I started using Ice resin for my first resin projects.
I have made two rings in a silicone mould however, I embedded some string into it and some of the string is slightly sticking out and on the other one, the string has left the corner without some resin in it.
I am wondering can I add more resin to it once it has cured to cover up these pieces and then sand it back?
@Amy, that is certainly what I would try to attempt first.
I’m a complete novice but making a project for my son’s school auction. I need to set bottle caps in a pattern in a wood frame. What do you suggest? Thanks!
@Leslie, if you just want the bottle caps to be a decoration, I would suggest gluing them on instead of trying to set them in resin.
Hi Katherine,
So excited to find your blog!! It’s great you willing share your knowledge & experience so freely. THANK YOU x
I’m brand spanking new to the use of resin.
My project is to use fabric to cover a timber table then cover in resin to seal, protect & preserve the fabric.
Best adhesive adhere fabric to table & best clear resin to use on top please?
@Esi, here’s a discussion in our forum that should help: https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-Jewelry-Making-Forum/5/How-can-I-……/Making-a-resin-tabletop/550.html
Hi Katherine, thanx a lot for your very informative article, Im gonna fill a big gap between two 1 metere long logs with resin, to form a table!!! What do you suggest؟! And i also have to mold it too.
Thanx for your helps.
@Michelle, If you are looking for an epoxy, then I would suggest using the Resin Obsession super clear resin. Otherwise, if you are experienced with resin, a polyester would be a good choice here as well.
Hi Katherine,
I will gladly use the Resin Obsession but is it still considered a soft resin like easycast? Even though my coasters look great I can’t see myself giving them or selling them to someone if the first time they use it it’s going to get indentations. Above there was mention of a resin sealer spray, do you think if I spray that on the coaster before the first use it will solve my problem and make it a harder dent free surface?
Hi everyone,
Katherine is the only person I have noticed to explain that easycast is a soft resin that if you try you can easily dent a cured piece with your fingernail. That being said I’m confused as to why most people say it is great for coasters. My coasters look amazing but once I set a glass on it it leaves dents. It’s got me very discouraged because I really like making them. But I don’t like that the dent. PLESE HELP!!!
Thanks Karherine I will give it a try…
@Michelle, the Resin Obsession super clear resin cures much harder than the Easy Cast epoxy resin. I have used it for coasters and have been very happy with the results. The resin gloss sealer spray will give you a final glossy finish, but won’t harden the resin.
Hey Katherine, I will be making a laptop desk made out of plywood. I will have pictures, paint, maybe some wood letters on the surface. It will have the weight of a laptop on quite often and I would like it to be very clear. What would be the best resin to use?
@Baylee, this blog post should help you make a decision: https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-FAQ/406/Advice-on-what-resin-to-use.html
Hi Katherine I’m a beginner and would like to use resin to cover small wooden laser cut earrings, I would like a dome shape for the resin with limited application. What would be the best resin to use in this instance? Thank you
Dear Katherine,
I am a beginner! I would like to take jagged pieces of glass and embed them onto a framed window pane. Would you recommend that I first apply a light coat of epoxy and then embed my pieces of glass (hoping this will hold the pieces in place), allow to cure. Then finish window pane with final coat of epoxy? If you feel this is correct, can you share with me the best epoxy to use that will be easiest to use and will dry the clearest with no color. It will be hung will sunlight will be shining through! Thank you for your expertise!
Hi there, I am completely new to resin, I’m wanting to make some keyrings trapping photographs inside, how do i make a hole at the top of a rectangular peice for the split ring to go through? is there a special mold or do i drill?
Many thanks!!
@Starr and @Abby, this blog post should help you make a decision: https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-FAQ/406/Advice-on-what-resin-to-use.html
@Lu, I would suggest drilling a hold in your finished casting.
hi there could please give me some advice on sealing porcleain and ceramics? I’m cutting up old cups and plates for jewellery and the cut pieces being porous are staining easily when worn . I had tried a crystal clear epoxy but found it too soft and tended to get dirty . Obviously I’m not using a mold and need more of a brush on sealant . Thanks heaps in advance 🙂
@Aimee, which brand of resin were you using?
Hi! I hand paint lazer cut shapes for earring making & I would like to know is there a resin I can use for glazing. I tried Mod Podge, but it doesn’t give me the thick glossy look I’m looking for. Also, if I pour the resin onto the earrings, how can I keep it from running over to the back of the earring? Thanks in advance!
Hi Katherine, it seems like your the wonder woman of resin and I couldn’t find any reference of people covering CD mosaics with resin so I thought I’d ask the resin guru 🙂
I’m covering a flat table with cut up cds and want a hard protective coating that is clear enough for the cd’s to catch the light in the same way. I tried just a spray varnish but this compromised the shine. The resin also needs to not interfere with the shiny coating as I have learnt grout can (this is my second attempt at this project, I only got up to the grout last time). I think I have narrowed it down to Enviro-tex lite pour on or easy clear cast epoxy but haven’t ruled out Hiflex EasyFlow 60 Polyurethane Liquid Plastic Casting Resin. So…
1) Which, if any would you recommend for a beginner and an under 1cm deep covering and
2) how would you recommend I go about making a mould around the edges to keep the resin in while it dries? (I read the above where you mentioned a doming resin however I have been unable to find any at a reasonable price) and
3) should I use grout with this or would none be better? I don’t mind either look so it’s whatever will work best. 🙂 thank you in advance!
@Ronette, for glazing your earrings, I would suggest either using a doming resin or using Judkins Diamond glaze. Here are two tutorials on our blog showing the two techniques: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/domino-resin-pendant-tutorial/ https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-Tutorials/401/Glitter-keychain-tutorial.html
@Jasmine, I have answered your question in our resin forum: https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-Jewelry-Making-Forum/5/How-can-I-……/Making-a-resin-table-with-CDs/1842.html
That’s brilliant, thank you so much!
Firehouse kitchen table made of stained plywood with a rounded edge, vinyl department patch adhered to top then coated with resin is the goal…the table is used hard with hot pots regularly set directly on it. Unsure how to treat the wood surface prior to resin as it has already been stained several times. Also unsure of the best adhesive to use for the vinyl decal on the wood prior to epoxy. And then trying to determine the best epoxy/resin. Huge project that we never dreamed would be this hard when it first started out. Your site is the most informative I have found anywhere. Help?!
@Di, I have answered your question in our forum: https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-Jewelry-Making-Forum/5/How-can-I-……/Making-a-resin-table/1853.html
Hi Katherine,
I’m so glad I found your page. I hope you can help me with a problem…I have been using a two part epoxy called bio clear 810. I do pours of about 1/4 inch or more where I layer them and paint acrylic in between to create abstract paintings with depth. I have a crab coat that I pour on top as an ultra v protectant to prevent yellowing. I am however still not happy with the clarity. It tends to muddle the under paintings and still yellows a little. I do between 3 to 5 layers. In your experience what is the clearest product I could use for this? thank you so much for any advice you could give -Tracey
Hi Katherine,
So much thanks to you for running this forum, and sharing your expertise!
I carve jewelry, mostly rings, out of wood. I usually carve tiny settings in them and set semi precious stones using a glue adhesive epoxy. Some of the stones are probably very porous material, and some also break easily. I’m wondering if painting a layer or two of epoxy resin with a brush over these stones will give them a little more strength.
Also, can I do the same on the wood rings themselves?
And if I attach the coated stones to the coated wood while still wet, will they stick well enough to each other as to not fall apart? Or should I coat both with resin..let cure, and then just use epoxy glue to adhere them together? I have no experience with epoxy resin, and am a little worried that resin might interrupt the way that light catches the stones and crystals. Thank you for any advice you can give. Much appreciated!
Hello!
It’s so great to see someone who takes the time to respond to questions!
So as a beginner, I have a few questions. I’m making a large project in which I would like to use resin in three different parts. I’m making my mailbox.
In the first, I have cast iron number pieces that I would like to add colored resin to the inside with purple ink (they are like ivy and don’t have a solid middle and so by adding a colored middle it would make them easier to see). I would need it to dry hard, be uv resistant and have a transparancy.
The second, I am making my mailbox out of stained glass. I’d like to coat it in a doming, crystal clear uv proof, non scratching hard resin so as to protect it more.
And the third I saw online (as you may have) that one table that was made with photoluminescent glow powder poured I to the natural holes? Well I would like to take a wood board, carve my last name into it and pour the resin mix into that.
The big wuestions is if their is a resin I could use for all of these projects or if I would have to get different resins for each? And which polyurethane resin would you recommend? I plan to do these in my garage with the door open and during a dry day (I live in Pennsylvania).
Thanks so much!
You can paint the stones with epoxy, but in my opinion, I do think it will affect the light refraction of the stones. You can use the wet epoxy as a glue (or glue the wet parts together). It will adhere parts well.
Very useful info thankyou.
Would Epoxy Resin therefore be more suitable for bubble top decals for cars? or would the epoxy be too soft still once cured? I have some decals here and I think they are epoxy as they are quite flexible.
Also where should I be looking to purchase the right resin for doming automotive decals? any advice would be greatly appreciated. 🙂
@Michaelle, I don’t know of a doming resin that can withstand the outdoor elements well.
@Michaelle, for a project like this, I would refer you to the group at http://www.smooth-on.com. They have a larger selection of polyurethane resins that would be suitable for your project.
Thank you, I tried and contacted smooth-on after looking through their site but they said their products don’t dome and wouldn’t work for what I want to do. Thank you though! I’ll just keep looking:)
Hello, where I am at, many of the resin’s are unavailable such as the actual casting resin, the only resins I have access to are resins found in home depot, such as parks super gloss resin, or one of the quick setting epoxy resins that are mainly used for bonding, am I able to use the parks super gloss or the quick setting epoxy resin to make little beads/casts from molds? Or is the super gloss only good for “glossing”, and the quick set wouldn’t set right/ or get stuck to the silicon mold?
@Amy, I wouldn’t expect those resins to work well. They are meant to be used as adhesives and tend to mix very thick.
Hi Katherine I was wondering could you help I am doing an Art project I want to finish my canvas works with epoxy resin which I am finding hard to get at short notice.Would it be on to use polyester resin ?
@Cass, no, I would not recommend a polyester resin. The surface exposed to air remains sticky and would require sanding.
Hey Katherine,
I am looking to make a larger mold of a traditional water jug (half gallon) and want to fill the inside with nuts to make it look like the nuts suspended in water. That being said I want it to be as clear as possible just like water. Would you recommend a polyester resin or epoxy resin for this? Also since it is such a large object I am worried about cracking and how stable the resin will be once it fills the handle. Would you suggest pouring all at once or in layers to help minimize this? Any other tips you have for pouring larger molds please let me know! Thanks for your help!
@Shawn, With a casting that large, I would suggest going ‘inexpensive’. You are going to have challenges regardless of the resin you use. You will have to pour in layers because the amount of heat a casting that large and thick poured at once will be a lot. You may need to consider pressure or vacuum casting to make sure your casting(s) come out bubble free.
Hi Katherine,
I am looking to cast some paper sculptures, ranging from 10 cm by 10 cm to chair size, and wondered what the best and most economical way would be to do this. I wouldn’t mind it cracking and causing bubbles as it would give a more interesting effect and I can always recast to solidify the cracks I think. Starting with the 10 by 10 what would be the best way to make a cheap cube mold and the best epoxy or polyester Resin to use that is transparent and hard? Thanks 🙂
@Lizzy, I would suggest either building a box mold that fits your specification or casting a mold from silicone of a 10 cm cube. As for the best resin, use the Resin Obsession super clear resin. It casts very clear and hard and is specifically designed for molds. https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/super-clear-resin-12-oz-epoxy
I am looking to make 1″x1″ trinkets. I plan on painting them with acrylic paint so I assume I would use white resin? Which resin would be best if I need a hard and sturdy product? And what should I use to protect the paint from chipping from wear? Thanks so much!
Hi Katherine,
I have a fish skeleton that I would like to cast and frame to put on a wall. The skeleton is about 8 inches long and 4 inches tall and it’s about an inch in thickness. What would be the best product should I use so it doesn’t damage the bones? Or is this even possible? I appreciate your help! Thanks!
Hi Tina, do you have a frame to put the fish in? A casting that large is going to be heavy, so I’m wondering what you have for your frame. I can then make some suggestions.
Hi Katherine,
I bought a plastic box frame from the craft store that is 8″x10″. The problem with that is that I’m not sure if it’s deep enough. The fish is about 3/4″ thick and the box frame is only about an inch thick so that wouldn’t leave much room. I have another plastic box that I can cut the sides down so that it will be deep enough if I need to and it’s about the same dimensions, if that makes sense. I’m going to make the actual frame out of some barn wood.
Greetings! I am writing from Brasil to kindly ask for help: I am trying to make a marble dust surface finishing to cover the surface of an open air art sculpture made of concrete plates. The idea is to apply a thick layer of marble dust pre-mixed with epoxi resin, spreading it over the concrete plates surface, and once the resin is cured and dry, to grind it and polish. The tricky thing is that when i mix the marble dust with resin, the marble dust turns grey. I have been using titanium dioxide powder (white pigment) to make it white again, but i feel it comes out less natural then if i was able to preserve the marble dust natural color. I am making several tests trying to make the powder impermeable before mixing it with resin. My impression is that the reason the marble dust turns out darker (more grey than white) it´s because it gets ‘wet’-like, soaked in resin, just like beach sand turns darker when wet. Please help me figure this out, how can i preserve the white tone of the original marble dust when mixing it with resin? I am currently using 40 grain of marble dust mixed with a less thick powder like grain. the idea is that it will shine in the sun the most possible, without using the white pigment (titanium dioxide), preserving the white from the marble grain and dust when mixed with resin. Sorry for the long explanation and thank you tons in advance for the attention. Best, Marcello
Hi Marcello, yes, you are correct in that the dust is turning grey because it is getting wet. The best suggestion I can give you is to try a powder additive specifically designed for resin. We have several powder colorants in our shop that may be of help. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/powder Unfortunately, I don’t have a good way to help you keep the marble dust ‘dry’ enough so that it looks good when mixed with resin.
Hi Katherine, appreciate your reply.
I noticed writen where it described the diferences between types of resin, that the “Epoxy resin won’t withstand the heat produced by a polishing wheel and will turn cloudy on the surface”.
What if i use a wet poIisher, would that permit me to reach the high gloss with epoxy resin and marble dust? I was figuring the water would keep the temperature lower and not afect the resin..
Thanks!
best,
M.
I don’t know. I’ve only ever used a wet polisher when I’m making my own cabochons from minerals, stones and such. It would be worth a try, but make sure the resin is very hard and fully cured first. If you give it a try, let me know how it goes.
Could anyone please let me know if epoxy resin will turn yellow with time or UV exposure? I’m a beginner to resin and I have no idea about this. Besides, how many layers does a project require? I mean, is a project made of resin enough or does it always need a coating resin? Please help me.
Thank you so much
All resins will eventually yellow with UV light exposure. Some have additives to slow down this process so that it takes years instead of months. As for your project, one layer should do it. You shouldn’t need an extra coating unless you want it to be very shiny.
Hey there, hopefully you are still answering questions here!
I’d love to know what resin you would recommend for me to make things like this for my ears, http://i.imgur.com/9wxxg49.png
I will be pouring the resin into steel tunnels. I am hoping to be able to put lots of different things in the resin, like dried flowers, crushed opal shards, solvent resistant glitter, metals etc.
Thank you so much for your time 🙂
Provided you have a mold to pour them into, I would recommend the Resin Obsession super clear resin. https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin-for-jewelry It cures very hard and crystal clear.
Thank you!
Yeah, I will be pouring it into and leaving it inside of the steel eyelets so that it doesn’t touch any skin.
Katherine, you seem so full of knowledge on this subject that I can’t help but ask you about something I’m trying to work on! I’m a beginner with all of this and was wondering what would be the best epoxy to use to make a cake plate? I plan on putting candy throughout it and just want it to come out as clear and sturdy as possible! – Hope to hear back. I’d love your input! Thank you so much!
*I also have two different molds for it. One being silicone and the other is a thinner plastic
Hi Katheirne,
I’m a beginner when it comes with using resin and like any beginner I’ve been encountering so bumps along the way. I’m currently using the easy cast resin with silicon bangle molds. When I take the bangle out after 24hours the top is clear as glass but the sides are a frosted look. I like the look for some jewelry but would love to make an item that is like glass all around. What is your advice for making the whole product crystal clear?
Thank you 🙂
What template did you use to make your silicone bangle mold? The silicone will pick up the surface of your template. If the template had a frosty look, so will subsequent castings from a mold made from that template.
It seems like it’s the mold since the sides are not fully clear. Do you have a recommendation of what brand of mold I should use to get that glass look?
We have a couple of bracelet molds in our shop that are made from shiny templates. You can find them here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/molds/bracelet
Hi katerine
Im trying to cast some pictures and pennies within a small panel door that has a recess of about 1ft x 2ft and a thickness of about 4-5 mm what would be a good water clear resin to use?
I did try using poly craft slow set polyurethane water clear casting resin but after it all going really well i left it to cure over night to find large raised bubbles had formed, i live in the UK so humidity is high so im guessing that was the cause also i wasnt sure if i need to do a sealant coat first of some sort (its fatory paint finished MDF)
Any advice would be appreciated
Thank you
Hi katherine, thank you
Do you have any advice for suspending photos in 5mm cast
I was thinking of doing a 3mm base layer then 2mm over the photo but im struggling to find definitive answers on how to go about it and i see you are definitely a resin guru, would the base layer need to fully cure so as to sick the photos down before the second layer?
They would only need to partially cure to the point that the photos wouldn’t sink.
I am making up a Sea Glass and Sea Shell grouping in a OLD Printers Tray. The backing on the tray is fiberboard and I want to fill each section with some beach pebbles. I would like to know what you think would be the best way to adhere them to each section…..glue them in individually …use resin or what would you suggest?
I would probably glue them in. The resin is going to seep through the fiberboard and make it look waterstained in those areas.
I’m making fairy wings that are thin, I’ve made them with epoxy resin and they are flexible. I want hard wings that don’t bend that are clear but where i can add pigments if i want. what should i use?
I’m not sure I understand what you are wanting to accomplish. Can you post your request along with a sketch or picture of what you want to make in our forum? https://www.resinobsession.com/forums
Hi Katherine,
Great website! Do you think this would work on brass
porch lights? I don’t have a porch so they really take a
beating.
I heard that the latest thing to protect brass is acrylic
urethane… but I like the idea that resin is so thick. Is this a
crazy idea or do you think it would hold up okay under the weather and very hot Texas summers?
Really appreciate any advice!
Nicole
You would need to use a resin designed for outdoor use. An industrial marine resin would be my choice for a project like this.
Thanks for answering! I need to do something right away and will check into marine resins.
Hi
I hope someone can help me . I make inlay and I used deyed wood to my project.. now I want use black polyster resin or proxy on my project. I want to know does polyster resin or proxy effect on dyed wood . disapper the stain from woood If I use polyster resin on my project ?
thanks
I wouldn’t expect it to change the dyed effect of the wood, but I am concerned whether or not the wood treatment would affect the resin’s ability to stick to it.
Hello, I have an acrylic container in which I am displaying sand samples from all over the world. Each compartment of the container holds about 2 cups volume, and each compartment is about 2/3 full of sand. I would like to add clear resin to the top to ‘seal’ the sand in each compartment to prevent so I won’t have spillage or mixing of the sands. I think I’ll need about 2.5×2.5×1 inch volume of resin to top off each compartment. What would you suggest? I’m a newbie and not really prone to detail work….but if need be, I can employ my meticulous engineering husband to the task.
Hi Beth, any resin that is good for molds should work. The resin chart on this blog post should help: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-casting/
Thank you! I’m glad you can see that several options might work. Sounds like I have a project coming up 🙂
Good morning. Can i use easy cast epoxy resin at the bottom of a coffee cup? Will it be safe to drink from? I want to draw a picture and have it be seen at the bottom of the cup when you need a refill. ;).
Thanks!
The manufacturer has not tested the resin at that temperature. Unfortunately, they cannot recommend it for that purpose.
How is it best to put pinecones in resin?
HI Sara, I would suggest dipping it in resin and allowing it to cure first. That will seal any air in or out. Once it is cured, use it as you would any other inclusion in your resin.
I want to make resin covered leaf ornaments and bowls but I’m not sure what resin to use. Where I live is dry and cold in the winter but humid in the summer and I currently don’t have a work space (Except my balcony) as I’m in an apartment. Any recommendations?
Are these going to be for indoor and/or outdoor use?
Indoor. For like jewelry bowls or fruit bowls or something (not for eating from) but more decorative.
I’ve also never worked with resin before
That’s great! Thanks for your help 🙂
Help! I was trying to buff a gloss onto a 1 1/2″ circle of resin. I was just given a dremel mototool. When I put the cloth circle to the resin it immediately scraped a large scuff onto the top of the piece! Can it be buffed out with sandpaper? Or would coating it with more resin help? I’m a newbie and I’m lost!
Hi Renee, sorry to hear you are having problems. How big is the scuff? The reason I ask is that recoating with another layer of resin would be easiest, but if the scuff is coarse, the resin won’t completely mask the scratch. Instead of looking smooth and glossy, it will look a little frosted underneath. Without seeing your scratch, I would try to sand it down, finishing with (at least) a 1000 grit paper or higher. Then, you can recover with resin.
Hi! I am making jewelry and it seems like the polyester resin is reacting with the metal jewelry bezel and turning some of the edges green. Is there any way to prevent this? I am also finding that it doesn’t fully set and the smell is horrible. Any other suggestions for a resin that sets clear and quickly that won’t react with metal?
An epoxy resin would work much better. There is a link to a chart on this blog post that helps to explain the resins we sell and which one is best for your project: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-casting/
I want to fill a hollow 2 in. diameter glass sphere. The glass sphere does have an opening to allow for me to pour fluids into it. From what I’ve read on this page, it seems like the polyester would be the best. I’m worried that when it cures, the polyester will pull away from the glass sphere. I need something that will fill the space with a clear finish and not contract as it cures. Thoughts? Thank you!
Hi Alex, based upon your comment, I think an epoxy would probably be better. Why were you considering a polyester resin?
Miss katherine, how nice of you to respond to all these questions for so many years. Its obvious your very appreciated. My question has to do with large scale epoxy table casting molds, if not already asked prior. I noticed an italian company called Nucleo Studios that cast these solid beautiful epoxy tables with wood boards dipped into set up as legs. They call it wood fossil. Im going to attempt this art but id like to avoid costly mistakes. Now I noticed you mentioned epoxy cures soft in a large thick scale. Should i use polyester resin? An would it be wise to cast these 3in thick resin slabs in acrylic made molds with a release? What are good large scale mold making materials that epoxy nor poly will stick too after cure?
If I were going to attempt this project, yes, I would use a polyester resin. If you were going to try casting them in an acrylic sided mold, you would definitely need to use mold release. Resin will stick to acrylic. Once cured, the epoxy and polyester resin shouldn’t stick to silicone.
Thank you for the reassurance and not saying its impossible. Im going for it. I do know big companies have access to autoclavs an all types of advance equipment to cast large composites. I wanna find the limit of what one person can do from home without the fancy machines and without creating a chemical melt down disaster in ones garge. Ill check up.
Sounds like an adventure! Let me know how it works out.
can i post my question regarding application of epoxy resin-hardener (2:1 ratio ) here.i very desperately need help / solution for problem -bubbles coming to surface 20/25 min after applying epoxy coat /may be surface tension .i don’t know what exactly my problem is. i am using localy manufacture and sold epoxy resin hardner. can i pasted some photos which will describe my problem in better way because i ma sort of newbe in using resin-hardener. can u tell me if the way i am using epoxy hardener-resin in correct way. i am making paintings/frame on 8 mm mdf board ,the size is 12×16 inc.. i applied wall primer first and after it dried i painted designs with instant coffee powder +water. after it dried i applied epoxy. i mixed resin and hardener in 2:1 ration for 10 min and after that i kept i aside for another 10 min. after that (after 15/20 min app.)i applied epoxy on my painting. for 20/ 25 min app. there was no problem. the epoxy cured and surface is smmoth the gloss is perfect but the frame /painting held infront of i could see pits under smooth surface making my frame look horrible.
It may be that the resin is reacting with something on the surface of your painting. I would suggest sealing the entire piece with a layer of an acrylic based spray first.
when should i use spray? after painting designs (with coffee + water) of after? i don’t know anything about it.
will butane torch/propane torch eliminate bubbles( of all size) in epoxy (resin+hardener )coat on 8mm mdf board?which is safer to use for first time user like me ?
Yes, but I prefer to use a heat gun so that I don’t accidentally set something on fire.
Hi Miss Katherine! I am so excited about finding this forum. I have been working on a round table for my mom for longer that I care to admit. I have sanded it, gel stained it, sanded it again bc gel stain streaks, polyurethane unsuccessfully, stripped all of that off…got back to square one. (i guess) then went through the whole 2 parts of epoxy resin on top of table 3 , yes 3 separate times. Looked beautiful except of the dust particles and a couple of mosquitoes that dipped into also. (yay!) So I began wet sanding it after it cured for a couple of weeks. Then I applied appropriately an ultimate compound and ultimate polish both by meguiar’s with an orbital sander. Didn’t give me shine like I wanted plus had more swirl marks which ironically is suppose to help with those. Today I have wet sanded with a little soapy water with 800 grit, cleaned, 1200 grit, cleaned, and 1500 grit. The epoxy is very smooth an free from any blemishes at this time. I’m at wits end and am thinking about putting minwax paste finishing wax over it. Will that work to give me a polished not cloudy overall look? Or do you recommend anything different to go over the epoxy. Or should I just put this to the curb and buy my mom a new table?? Thanks for any info from anyone! I really appreciate reading all of the FAQs!
Assuming you have a nice, smooth finish from the 1500 grit sandpaper, one more layer of resin should give it a glossy finish. To keep dust particles, etc. out of it while it is curing, you need to find a way to cover it while the resin is still wet. How big is the table?
thanks..
what is the difference between thick epoxy resin and thin epoxy resin?
What’s the context of your question? I’m not sure what kind of answer you are looking for.
for frames /paintings..
i am using 8 mm mdf board. i earlier tried to coat it epoxy resin+hardener. but even after 2nd coat there were bubbles+pits on frames i have made. the resin i am using is thick (like honey). i kept the resin and hardener bottles in hot water before mixing . but by the time i started to apply 1st coat,the mix had started getting thick once again. i am thinking of using some other brand of epoxy. i came across other set of epoxy resin+hardener at shop. the epoxy in this set was thin almost like water . so i wanted to know whether i should try thin epoxy resin+hardener.
For what you are doing, you will need a ‘thicker’ resin because you need the extra surface tension to let the resin dome on top of your painting. It sounds like you may need a resin with a longer pot time, which will give you more time after mixing to get it onto your painting.
Thank you!
I’ve been looking for a durable coating (needs to be a bit flexible too) for shrink plastic, both drawn and printed… jewelry. Spray coatings sometimes spit a little thicker, making sharpie pen run ( can'[t depend on the “light” coating.. and I don’t have an “outdoors” for spraying most days, means I can’t finish at night), brush on coating seem to cause even more running of inks or pens. I’ve been using nail gel for some, but, not as crisp looking of a coating and more work and, if the item gets wet, moisture seeps between the gel coating and the plastic, bend it too much and it separates (does not really seal to the plastic)… it seems like mixing small amounts of resin might be annoying, but… would it solve some of the other problems?
Resin might be a good fit here. Have you seen this tutorial where I used Judikins fluxe to coat shrink plastic? https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/shrinky-dink-jewelry-tutorial
I can’t reheat it… I shape t hem while warm and the layer there looks very thick, I need a thin coat. Maybe I’m stuck with spray on…
i am coating my 8mm mdf board frame/paintings with epoxy coat. the resin i am using is thick like honey. i mixed resin and hardener for 5 min slowly. kept it aside for 5 min. but the mix was cold even after 10 min.is it due to weather (winter season temp 12-18 degree c) or something else?
Yes. I would suggest warming the bottles in a warm water bath for 5 minutes or so before using in cold temperatures. You can also try using a space heater for your area.
thanks .
1)what cause pits in epoxy coat ?how to prevent them?
It could be where the resin started to cure and a bubble finally popped. The resin may not have been liquid enough to fill in the void.
will thin resin help me ?
the surface is smooth,prefect gloss, but if frame held in front of light anyone can see pits.
Thin resin isn’t going to stay on the surface very well. I would suggest mixing smaller batches of resin. It may be that you are trying to use too large a quantity for the amount of pot time the resin has.
can anyone tell me about glass epoxy?
Like epoxy used to bond glass?
The colors you describe aren’t necessarily unusual. When you mix them together, they should go clear. If the resin is dark yellow, it may be old. I’ve never heard of ‘glass epoxy resin’ however.
Hi!
I have been trying my hand in resin jewelry, as it is easier to do at home away from the studio where I do metal work. I am working on making some resin ring designs using molds, but would like to know what the best kind of resin is to use for SOLID bracelets, rings, etc. I don’t think the alumilite I have been using for pendants will cut it, as it melts with body heat.
Thanks!
Kim
Which Alumilite brand of resin have you been using?
Hi Katherine,
I have been using the Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast thus far. I have found that if I wear the rings I created, they end up warping from my body heat!
Kim
Hmm. In that case, I would suggest trying the Resin Obsession super clear resin. https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin-for-jewelry It casts clear and very hard.
can i use epoxy resin to coat real food for display purpose?
such as if i pour over a real fruits ?
You can, but the food will spoil.
any resin that i can use to protect and keep the food looking fresh just for display ?
Not unless the food is dehydrated. Resin hates moisture.
I want to make roofing sheet used natural fiber. so i thought the best resin type is polyester resin. Is that correct? Can you help me please
I don’t have experience using resin for that industrial a purpose. I’m afraid I can’t offer you any advice.
Hi Katherine,
I am wanting to make mosaic stained glass pictures with tumbled glass. I am using picture frames with the glass that came with the frame and have been gluing the pieces to the glass using E6000 glue. Then I want to use a resin to fill the gaps between the glass pieces. However I do not know which type or make of Resin to use. Please, please can you help me with this as I want to get going as soon as possible. Many thanks. If you could email me that would be great. I very much look forward to hearing from you.
Were you wanting the resin to act like a grout or completely cover the glass pieces?
I would be doing both, depending on the individual piece.
For the grouting I would put the mixed resin in a squeezy bottle with a narrow tip then apply the resin around the pieces of glass. There will also be areas in the same piece which will be painted onthe glass which will need coating too.
Iam fresh for resin. While mixing resin and hardner the mixture is going in yellow colour. And after dry also it is not good and shining to see. How can I overcome this. Please advice me
Is your resin old? Resin will yellow as it ages.
Hi all, looks like this might be the place to answer my questions three (after looking all over online) 🙂
I’m building a guitar and want to make the inlay dots and headstock logo look like shiny rubies. After reading this FAQ I reckon polyester resin is the one for me as it will dry hard, now…
1) If I pour the resin into the holes for the dots etc will it adhere to the wood, do I have to worry about it seeping into the wood? Or is there a chance the dots could fall out?
2) Will I be able to sand it down (even with very fine sandpaper) after it sets to make sure it is exactly level with the fretboard?
3) After sanding it level I then apply a thin coat of nitrocellulose lacquer over the whole guitar in order to seal the paint and protect the wood, is this going to affect the resin at all (or is the resin going to affect the lacquer?
Any advice or help with these questions would be gratefully received, thank you
Yes, the resin will adhere to the wood, but I don’t know whether or not the surrounding wood will show ‘water’ stains. The dots shouldn’t fall out, but I would certainly try a test piece first. Yes, the resin can be sanded after curing. I don’t have any experience using nitrocellulose lacquer over cured resin. I would suggest checking with the manufacturers of the specific resins you want to use for their advice.
Dear Katherine,
we would like to use resin to make a new counter for a bar (shaped in an L) from one piece to put on their existing pedestal and the masters don’t know how to do it; the mold and procedure so the question is –> What should the mold be from to make the counter on the floor lets say, and be able to take it out of the mold in one piece when it dries and put it on the pedestal??
Or if its possible to make it on top of the existing pedestal if we protect the under layers, how to achieve that ?
Also important is that we would like to make the counter from black resin, minimum/medium thickness possible to be nice straight and with no bumps…..
Could epoxy floor or wall resin be used for that case too?
Is it possible & how ;)?
Thankyou in advance you would save us
Thank you very much for answering so fast… but our idea was to pour it all out of resin a cm,2 or more if suggested for floors because wood doesnt match nicely with the rest of it and needed advice from what material to make a mold for something so big.. The counter is shaped in an L and is 300×150 cm, and Ive got an advise so far that the mold/frame can be made of shiny wood if we put a separator material – how its called (dont know the right name but they should know in store) but as we have a round angle in the L it cannot be wood but plexiglass – its our other option because it can bend nicely… Do u think thats the best/ or ok solution if we want to have it in one big piece of epoxy ?
Thanks again!
Also, forgot this, is resin a durable enough material for frequent usage in a bar, so drinks and food all day n nite ? Does it show signs of wear after a while ?
Thankyou
In my opinion, this resin is durable enough for a coating for a bar top with regular use. You may need to recoat it once a year or so to keep it looking new.
That sounds fine, thanks!
The white Amazing(brand) Resin that sets in 10 minutes..and cures white..
Do you use a catalyst with it?
Also, can you add color to the mix?
Yes, it uses a catalyst. The catalyst comes with the resin when you make a purchase. It can also be colored, but since it is a polyurethane resin, you need to use colorants specifically designed for it. They can be found here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/alumilite-liquid-transparent-dye
Hi guys wonder can anyone help? I have a ring blank I want to fill with resin, it has a hole in it it was a ring blank for a cabochon. Is there anything I could cut out and set over the hole that is see though and that will stay out once the resin sets! Thanks
So you want something that will fill the hole, but come out once the resin has cured?
What kind of plastic is Castin Craft Epoxy Resin? I’m looking to get scratches out of my project and I don’t know what type of plastic it is.
It is not a plastic, but an epoxy resin.
I’m not sure I understand your question. Do you have a link to an example of what you are trying to create?
I’m not familiar with that product. Can you include a link for me to review?
Hi Katherine –
I’m wondering if you have suggestions for glues that would affix hardened polyester resin casts to acrylic plastic bases — how best to glue polyester resin to other surfaces, really. I have deep cast a few items in polyester resin, and now I want to affix the cast to the base of a plastic display case. I am trying E6000, but it doesn’t really seem to want to set or glue hard. Is there another good glue option? One that might dry clear? Many many thanks in advance!
I would try mixing up an epoxy resin to act as your glue. If your glue area is hidden, a five minute epoxy is fine. If your glue area is more visible, I would suggest a jewelry quality resin since it will yellow more slowly than the industrial kinds.
I am making a table top 2’x8′. I have about a 1/2″ lip around the sides and I have filled it with sand, shells, tiles for a checkerboard and family photos that have been glued down. This table is going to be used outside and uncovered. What would be the best type of resin to use? I think if I use the epoxy it will be about 5 gallons…not sure how much the Polyester resin would require me to need if that is better suggested. Please help before I purchase as I know its going to be pricey and want to do it right the first time.
Great question! This post on our blog should help you with determining how much resin you will need: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/how-much-resin-do-i-need/ As for the type, the polyester resin will likely be your most economical choice. It is very durable, but will yellow with constant UV light exposure. I would recommend covering the table when not in use.
I am making suncatchers and am using a clear gloss to cover them but am having a hard time getting it smooth. What do you recommend? Also I am having a really hard time finding black pens for outlining!
What kind of clear gloss are you using? Have you tried Sharpie pens?
I want a resin product which heavy than the epoxy product
Can you help me ?
I’m not sure I understand what you are trying to accomplish.
OK ,, what about ice resin ,are try it ? ,and what about the weight of it’s product
I am coating RTIC cups and the envirotex leave little baby bubbles. Any suggestions on how to get rid of the bubbles or what to use instead.
Thanks!
Try going over it with a heat gun. This is one I like: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/wow-embossing-heat-tool
Can I use fresh flowers in molds ?
Fresh flowers generally do not do well in resin. We talk about using dried flowers in this section on our blog: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
Sir. I saw your article.
I was so surprised your skill and ability.
And i respecting you.
I Trying to real carbon fiber epoxy resin task.
(car indoor material.. for example dashboard.. )
How product(epoxy resin) is recommended for this task?
Thanks your help.
Regards.
I’m afraid I don’t have any experience with that type of use for resin and cannot make a recommendation.
Hi Katherine,
What a wonderful site! I’m hoping to make some lamp bases and was wondering if The Polyester Resin would be the best way to go? I am hoping to create a fractured effect and wasn’t sure what would be the best way to achieve these results. Could you please advise a way that would achieve a consistent fracture throughout the lamp base.
Kindest Regards,
Gen
Once you determine the amount of catalyst you need for casting (based upon the depth) add a little extra. The extra heat generated is generally enough to cause a cracking. You can see what I’m referring to in this blog post: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/polyester-resin-casting/
Hi Katherine,
I read through as many of the comments as possible hoping to find a similar project but gave up after the first 100. I have a square wooden shelf “box” with no back or front. My intention is to secure the box on to a flat surface, pour a shallow pool of resin (to make a clear front). Once that is dry I’m going to lay sea glass on the resin front and then pour resin over all the glass. Once that is complete I’m going to attach a light source behind the glass and hang it on the wall.
#1) Recommendations for resin?
#2) What surface/ preparation should I use to secure the box to the flat surface so that I can peel it away once it’s dried.
I hope this all made sense…
Hi Christi, I would follow the procedure shown in this tutorial. https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/resin-pendants-with-glass-beads It is using small pendants, but the same concept applies.
I’ll give it a go. Thank you!
A couple questions:
1) I purchased some 20MM Round Bezel Cufflinks and Tie Clips Blanks. If I want to use custom images to make my own Cufflinks sets, would you recommend: A) Glass Cabochons, B) Epoxy Ice Resin or C) Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy Resin?
I’d like to use Glass Cabochons as I have heard that they are less likely to scratch/scuff, but I’ve read it is hard to find round bezel blanks and glass cabochons that fit well together consistently (even when listed as the same size). I am a perfectionist, so this sounds less than ideal.
2) I have read that sealing the images helps prevent potential issues. If I wanted to seal coat the images prior to adhering them to the metal blanks, would you recommend: A) Mod Podge, B) Diamond Glaze or C) Glossy Accents?
> Once dry, will all of these product options allow me to re-apply and secure the image to the metal blanks without incident?
> Once dry, will any of these product options react negatively when the metal blanks are filled with epoxy resin?
Thanks in advance for your help answering these questions and saving me some time, hassle and money!
For high contact pieces such as cuff links, glass cabochons may work better since they are less likely to scratch or show damage. If you wanted to work with a resin, the Ice resin will cure harder than the Easy Cast resin.
I use Mod Podge to seal my images, but any clear drying glue should work. Seal the image, then seal it again to the bottom of your bezel. Make sure everything is thoroughly dry (12 hours or more) before pouring the resin.
Katherine,
If the round bezel is too high and leaves a rim around the edge with glass cabochons, would it make sense to fill the blank halfway with resin, then secure the glass cabochons with it shortly thereafter?
I’d like to think this would seal the Cufflinks and help disguise any unevenness that might exist around the edge.
Sounds like a lot of extra work. Instead, I would use a bezel pusher (like you are setting gemstones) to push the bezel around the glass cabochon.
Hi, I was wondering if there is any difference between the epoxy resin that you mentioned, and the epoxy adhesive usually sold at hardware stores, such as the Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy glue. Can they be substituted for one another?
It depends on what you want to accomplish. If crystal clear results are important, then you want to go with one of the resins mentioned. Hardware store epoxies tend to cure amber and will amber faster over time.
I see, I was actually intending to add a black opaque pigment to the epoxy. Would the result still be similar with hardware store epoxies as compared to the aforementioned resins?
What were you going to cast with the epoxy?
It’s hard to describe, but the mold vaguely resembles an inverted cone around 2 inches deep.
I would expect that epoxy should work. Try a small amount as a test piece first.
Another question, is there a standard proportion of pigment to be added to the resin? And does the amount of hardener need to be adjusted accordingly or does it remain the same?
Try to add as little as colorant as possible to achieve the desired effect. Every colorant is different in terms of the mixing directions. For example, when using the Resin Obsession pigments, you need to use extra hardener. For some other brands, that isn’t necessary. I would suggest investigating the specific brand and following their specific directions.
Hey, Katherine. I was wondering if your resin bonds well with wood? I’m working on pendants that are half wood half resin and I have everything except the resin. I know West Systems bonds well to it, but I’m not exactly comfortable spending that much money on it due to its mixing procedure. Plus spending that much, I’d want to be able to use it with all resin pieces. And yours seems perfect for everything else I do. Thanks!
I don’t have any personal experience with this, but I would expect it to do fine. There is minimal shrinkage, which is essential for bonding resin and wood.
Long article.
Can you use resin hardener in the epoxy resin?
When do you use a 2:1 ratio? Which one is the 2 ratio?
Hardener must be used with resin in order for it to cure. Follow the directions of the specific resin kit you want to use. It will tell you how much resin and how much hardener to use.
I have a donut… a very special donut. I’m hoping to preserve it for my husband as a Christmas present. Paper weight or just a silly item for a shelf. I’ve read several food related posts and know I need to get the donut as dry as possible before starting but I was wondering if you know first how I should seal it and then which resin to use? Hoping you can help.
I don’t think this will work well at all. It will be almost impossible for you to get it dry enough to cast in resin. The other problem is that the donut has a lot of trapped air that will come out later during the casting. My best suggestion would be to have someone recreate a donut for you out of polymer clay, then cast that donut into resin.
I’d like to cast decorative frames for my small paintings (size of paintings are 3×4 inches to 6×8 inches) based off a mold made from a clay sculpt. I don’t care about it being clear as the designs I’m currently considering would be completely painted or gilded anyway. I have never cast resin before. It sounds like I should use an epoxy, but wondered if anyone has any advice as I consider my options (specific epoxy resins, or if I should choose something else instead)?
Hi Nicky, since you are a beginner, I would recommend an epoxy resin. The Resin Obsession super clear resin should work well for you. You can find it here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin-12-oz-kit
Hi! Im absolutely amazed that after so many years you continue to respond to inquires! Thats awesome. Quick question. Im trying to make some jewelry and dont want my items to tarnish. I made a choker and the clamps i used started to tarnish after a couple wears. I tried to scroll through the comments to see if my question was answered by there are so many! Lol. Any recommendations?
Are you referring to the silver tarnishing? I have used Renaissance Wax on pieces and been very happy with the results. Apply a light amount, buff dry with a soft cloth. It will keep the tarnish away. If the wearer washes the piece with soap and water or ends up using a polishing cloth on it, you will need to reapply the wax. You can also use the wax over cured resin as well. I started using it years ago when I didn’t want customers to ruin the resin finish trying to remove tarnish from the silver. Happy to help. 🙂
Hi Katherine,
I was just wondering if you have any suggestions for an epoxy resin that dries fairly firm and has very little fumes. I made some jewelry with Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy and it worked very well and there weren’t any noticeable fumes, but it bends very easily and I am worried about selling my jewelry. Also, can you drill wholes in resin? Thank you!
In general, Easy Cast resin cures soft. I think you will be happy with any of the other epoxy resins we sell. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin Yes, you can drill resin. I show how to do that with a flex shaft and drill press in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7Ippav162g
hello.i was wondering how can i cast a piece of meat..fresh meat? is there any way of making a clear coating and drying some how ar are there any resins that can work with a dump surface like a steak let say… thanks !
Hi Jordan, unfortunately fresh meat isn’t going to do well in resin. Here’s a similar discussion in our forum: https://www.resinobsession.com/forums/topic/casting-a-sandwich-in-resin
I have an art project where I am trying to preserve meats by painting layers of resin on all surfaces exposed to air. Ideally I would like it to be see through and to preserve the visual features of the meat as it decays.
Any resin should work. The fresh meats should decay in any of them.
I am interested in making pen blanks using resin and wood. My plan was to get a silicone mold for the pen blanks, put some interesting wood pieces in the mold and then fill the gaps and holes with the resin to make a solid piece. Then turn the piece on the lathe to create pens.
I have been reading about which resin to use and being a newbie who lives in Florida I think epoxy would be the one most likely to succeed as I don’t have a place with adequate ventilation and low humidity. My question is, will epoxy work? And if so, how should I finish the final turned piece so that it looks reasonably clear and shiny?
I have used ICE resin for some experiments but now it’s time to buy more resin and I’m not sure what to get. Thanks
No, you will need to use a polyurethane resin. Epoxies do not do well with wood turning projects.
Thanks for such a quick response. Can you elaborate a little on why epoxy is not a good choice for turning? Is it too brittle? Is it too hard to polish? Since I’m new to resin work I’m trying to learn the pros and cons to the different types of products. Unfortunately since I live in Florida and don’t have a room I can seal off I probably can’t use polyurethane except for a couple months in winter 🙁 Are there any other alternatives?
Epoxy does not do well with the heat and friction from saws and lathes. It will get crumbly and or melt from the heat. Being in Florida, I also understand your concerns about successfully using a polyurethane. You can try a polyester resin (it is less moisture sensitive) but can be a bit fussier to work with. This blog article should answer a few more questions for you: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/polyester-casting-resin/
Hello, I want to make a figure model but finding epoxy resin is hard here, can I use epoxy paint (the product info said that it is basically made from epoxy resin and hardener) to make a model?
No, unfortunately, that is not going to work.
i want to use a vinyl sticker (picture) and cast/stick it on a cement slap that i want to use outside, which resin is the best to use.
I’m afraid resin isn’t the best choice here. It will yellow with the UV light exposure.
I’ve been making ponds in glass notices and I use the Clear Casting Polyurethane in the large purple can. I have polymer clay koi and turtles imbedded in it. It cures beautifully and looks like glass. But recently I’ve noticed that after a few months, the clay items have a “bubble” or air space around those clay items. Is this too strong for the polymer clay? Have you had a similar issue? Would you recommend a different resin? Thank you and I love reading your articles!
Hi Lupe, thanks for the kind words! I would suggest sealing your clay items first. Then, before placing them in the resin, dip them in resin first. That will break the surface tension.
Hi Katherine, I would really appreciate your help- I want to make a cube with dried flowers inside (about 5-7 inches tall).
And I would use it as a lamp. So it has to be crystal clear, with no yellowing because of the light. What should I use?
I would suggest the Resin Obsession super clear resin. You can find it in several sizes here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession
Hi! First thank you for all the awesome information and answering all these questions they have been time savers. I was wondering if you might have some in site on what I need to use. I have a pice of wood with an initial cut into it and I want to fill it with a resin. I plan to color the resin white so I don’t need a crystal clear color and hang it on a wall. What do you recommend I use? Also can I use acrylic paint to color the resin? I have seen people do this for epoxy painting. How to i get a flush(with the wood ) Finish? Sorry for all the questions but I greatly appreciate your help!
Hi Jamie, a few questions before I make a recommendation. What is your experience with resin? What kind of wood finishing/sanding tools (if any) do you have to get the resin flush with the wood?
Hi! No experience at all….lol As far as sanding….I have a hand sander and lot of experience with hand sanding….lol. I was thinking of putting the blue painters tape on the back to keep the resin from seeping out (hopefully). It’s the front of theveryone piece I worry about getting it at least semi level with the wood. Thanks for the reply!
Another question — how deep is the hole?
No more than an inch deep
Yes, close the back with painters tape or a good quality masking tape. The resin won’t stick to that once it has cured. The Resin Obsession super clear resin would work well for this. You won’t need much — the 3 ounce kit should be plenty. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin-3-oz-kit-jewelry-resin Fill the void as full as you can, then fill it with a few drops more. The resin will shrink a smidge when it cures and you want to try to have it above the wood a little bit since you want to sand it flat. Acrylic paints ‘should’ work with resin, but the problem is sometimes they have too much moisture and may cause curing problems. Colorants designed for resin are less likely to cause these problems. We have some here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants You can use your belt sander to sand it down once cured, but don’t use it too long. Epoxy resin does not like the heat and friction from a belt sander. Start with something coarse, then work it down as necessary to get the finish you want.
Omg! Thank you so very much! I am making it as a gift for my sisters wedding and so didn’t want to screw it up! You are my new favorite person!
Aw shucks. Thank you!
My 1st time doing mosaic!
I chose a wooden door with 2 panels that I put mosaic pottery pieces , glass rounds and an old stained glass window .
then grouted it.
we are using this as a table.
So now I want to make it level .
I am trying to figure out the best method to fill the area that will adhere to these different surfaces.
I think I will have to seal it with a water based sealer then use epoxy resin..will it take to the glass surface o.k.?
I do not want to sand the glass.
thank you!
A doming resin is what I would use for this project. It will adhere to the glass well.
Hello !
I hand letter on agate slices and want to seal them to protect against water damage as well as make them hold up to a lot of handling. I’ve been using multiple coats of liquitwx varnish and it’s super water resistant but it can dent and scratch and I worry about oils from skin over time .. I have the pour on resin shown in the picture above and once I let it set it’s awesome! My problems – dust 🙁 tips on creating s dust free area ? I can deal with most of the bubbles using my blow dryer after 15 mins. But 2 tries and I keep getting dust and tiny hairs which is not ok for something I want to sell 🙁 does it need to ” breathe” to cure? Or can I put it in a plastic box and close the kid so nothing can get in and not touch it for 48 hours ?
Is there a different epoxy / resin you would recommend for this type of project ? Thin layers would be awesome if possible..
Place a dome or box lid on your pieces while curing. That will keep the dust out. The TotalCast resin would be good for your project. It cures crystal clear and has a hard finish. You can find it here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/totalcast-clear-artwork-resin-17-5-ounce-kit
Hi! (Please pardon the long message, Im in need of a lot of information and thought you would be a great help)
I recently got into crafting with resin, and decided to suspend objects in glass bottles with it. I have used EasyCast almost all of the time, and I believe I have tried Envirotex as well once or twice, but no matter what I do the glass bottles crack over time. They are very small bottles, and I do not seal the tops until they are fully cured (or perhaps theyre not if they are cracking? I just assume that after a few weeks they should be fully expanded and hardened). I have had some for months that go without cracking, but without fail they always do eventually, primarily around the base but on some they will also appear on the sides . What is the problem? I would love to continue to make them, and use bigger glass containers, but I fear the same will happen. I make sure to do my best to get rid of any air bubbles in case they affected it, but I get the same results. Should I just give up on trying to use the containers?
Past this, I would love to use resin in molds as well for crafting and to make jewelry. Is EasyCast a good brand for this? Im looking for some resin that I will be able to safely craft in the house with, but will not cure too tacky.
I also use Castin Craft dye to change the resin’s color. Is there any other ways to change the color of the resin without affecting the quality or hardness? I’ve heard mica pigment and oil paint is one way to go, any thoughts on those or other mediums?
Thank you very much, I can’t tell you how long I’ve been searching for someone so knowledgeable.
I have not had this problem when filling glass items with resin. Are the glass containers (filled with resin) used outside?
EasyCast resin is not my first choice for molds. I prefer to use the Resin Obsession super clear resin as it is specifically designed for molds. It mixes in a thin viscosity, so bubbles are almost never a problem. You can find it here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession
We have other colorants, liquid and powder, that can be used for resin here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants
Dave
Thanks for the response! Well they actually aren’t is the weird thing. I’ve kept them on a shelf in a room where they are not being hit with sunlight. The ones that lasted the longest were the ones I stored in a small box, and some have been fine for almost a year, but a few weeks after taking them out they cracked. How odd right? You see so many people doing this very same thing, and you would think that the EasyCast would not be as prone to cracking them if it is supposedly more tacky upon curing.
Besides aesthetics, do the bubbles affect the resin pieces in any other way?
Off topic however, if I were to layer the resin by putting half in a mold or object and topping it with another layer later, would it show a line where they meet? Someone once told me for this you also need to use less hardener with each layer, is this true? What is the reduction formula you would use?
Thank you again.
That is weird that it cracks. We have a similar discussion going on in our forum that may relate to your situation: https://www.resinobsession.com/forums/topic/glass-breaks-in-the-cold-with-resin-on-windows
Bubbles in cured resin really aren’t a problem unless there are so many that it affects the structure of a casting. (That doesn’t sound like it applies here.)
If you want to minimize the lines between resin layers, pour your next layer before the first has fully cured. Don’t adjust the amount of hardener added UNLESS you are working with a polyester resin. As you pour subsequent layers with that resin, the heat can be additive, so you use a little less hardener each time.
Hi! I’m hoping you can help me, as I’m not having much luck finding answers elsewhere, and you’ve already helped me a bit! Thank you for warning me to the order issue with polyester resins!
I’m new to resin and I’m looking for something that will go nicely over clay miniatures (2 inches and smaller) and small glass sun charms created with acrylic paints and embossing powders, but that also will not affect my asthma, which is very sensitive to chemicals – nail polish especially chokes me up! I’ve used Lisa Pavelka’s Magic-Glos uv resin before with no issues, but it’s so expensive! Is there a cheaper version of uv resin, or a type of epoxy that would be okay to use? Thank you for any advice!
There are a few forum discussions here about using resin as a coating that may be helpful to you: https://www.resinobsession.com/?s=resin+as+a+coating
I am trying to find a resin to use for making gauges. I need to find one that is skin safe and clear. Any ideas?
I would suggest the Alumilite Amazing clear cast epoxy resin. It is considered FDA food safe once fully cured. You can find it here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-clear-cast-epoxy-resin-16-ounces
I have a question to do. I want to make this:
https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/advice-on-what-resin-to-use/
What kind of resin i have to use?
I’m in a biiiiiiiig lost.
Please help me…
Thank you very much
You will want to use a clear polyurethane resin. Unfortunately, that is not something we sell.
Thank you Katherine.
I have an oval porcelain pan and want to put a thick layer of clear coat 1/4″ thick on the bottom for holding water. Pan has chips; can this work. Pan has sentimental value.
Chips meaning like the porcelain has parts missing? (i.e. not potato chips, LOL)
Hi Katherine,
Do you know if it ok to coat cured epoxy resin with spray acrylic varnish? Or would it react/peel off?
It is because I need to file a bit of the resin down and I want to spray it afterwards to make it shiny again. Thank you so much, Caroline
Yes, an acrylic based spray should be fine.
Hi Katherine,
I’d like to make a pebble dish soap for the first time and wondering if you could suggest the best type of resin for this? Also how much pebbles should i mix with the resin (what ratio) ?
Thank you for your answer in advance
The Resin Obsession super clear resin would be a good choice for this. You can find it in several sizes here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession You can add as many or as few pebbles as you want. It’s simply a matter of preference.
Hi Katherine, will you use polyurethane resin for jewellery?
Yes, I will use that as well.
Hi Katherine, what is the difference between Easy Cast and envirotx ? I’m find easy cast is quite a bit cheaper.
Hi Donna, they are both doming resins, but have a few other differences. I detail them at the PDF link in this article: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-casting/
Hi Katherine,
I apologize if this question has already been answered but i didn’t see it. I want to make an item that will be in sections then screwed together with some electronics components inside them.
I’m new to resin casting so have no idea of what the easiest materials or methods would be of doing something like this, or if they can even be done. I will have to make my own mold and would appreciate information on what to make that out of as well. So sorry about all the questions, i promise i won’t be asking you to assemble it too. LOL.
Thanks for your very informational posts.
Hi Sheila,
We have a few articles in our mold making section to help you get started: https://www.resinobsession.com/category/molds-mold-making Once you have more mold, I suggest using the Resin Obsession super clear resin. It is designed for use in molds. It mixes crystal clear and if you are careful in mixing, bubbles are almost never a problem. You can find it in several sizes here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession
Hi Katherine,
Have a couple of questions.
I have made a wood desk to wrap presents, fold clothes, do crafts, and paperwork on. I have used yardsticks glued to the top with liquid nails. The yardsticks vary in thickness, so I need to use something to get an even top. Should I give the yardsticks a clear coat first, to prevent bubbles? Should I use a polyester and polyurethane ? Which is easier to use? I was reading about Envirotex lite and find different directions for the stir times to mix it. Do you have any recommendations?
I would use a clear drying acrylic spray to seal the yardsticks before pouring a layer of resin. I would not use polyurethane or polyester resin because neither of them are self-leveling. Instead, I would use a clear doming epoxy resin to apply to the top of the table. Both of these in our shop would work: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-clear-cast-epoxy-resin-32-ounces?variant=377482313754 and https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/totalcast-clear-artwork-resin-70-ounce-kit?variant=27573923841
Hello. I have been using Famowood Glaze Coating. I build guitars and have been using it as a clear finish. Been working great, but I have been wanting to do small inlays. I founf someplace, but can’t find it again about using water based Acrylic color paints mixing with the Glaze Coating to make small inlays. I have been noticing the Glaze will stay rubbery on smaller inlays, but works great in larger areas. Am I using the wrong stuf to do this?
While acrylic paints can color resin, the extra moisture can make the cured resin rubbery. I would suggest trying something specifically used to color resin. We have several options in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants
This can be used with Famowood Glaze Coating? also I am looking to make a solid color with fluorescent colors that will glow under a black light. thanks.
We have glow in the dark powder colorants here that might work for you: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/products/day-glow-in-the-dark-powder-for-resin?variant=965326549
just got my shipment. thanks. on the Alumilite Flo do you have a hot pink color?
Unfortunately, we do not have an Alumilite in hot pink.
Hello. I have been using Famowood Glaze Coating for a lot of projects. I make guitars and have used it as a clear finish. Works great. I have been making inlays with it, but got smaller colored inlays the glaze stays rubbery. i seen someplace that mixing water base Acrylic paints in with the Glaze Coating could change the color and could use as making inlays. larger inlays works great, but smaller with stay rubbery. Should I be using something else?
Hi @Katherine , I am a begginer with resin and as I have read what I should use is epoxy resin, my project is handmade jewelry with sea shells, my question is, is epoxy resin fine when exposed to sunlight, I mean if I am working with seashells and my clients are most likely to wear their jewelry at the beach, will there be a problem when exposed to salty water and sunlight? And also do sheashells and exposy resin work together?
I’m afraid the resin could damage the sea shells instead of making them look better 🙁
I think seashells and resin work well together. Here’s a project I did with them: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/seashell-resin-jewelry-and-magnets
HI Natasha, occasional exposure of resin to water generally isn’t a problem, but bathing or swimming could be. As for the sunlight, that could be a problem. Resins with UV inhibitors and stabilizers help extend the time before yellowing occurs. However, constant exposure to sunlight can speed up the yellowing process. How long the epoxy will last in its clear state is very difficult to predict.
Hi Katherine! Your post was so informative, thank you! I made my daughter cut-out cookies for her 1st birthday and would like to keep one as a keepsake. What material (and how) do you suggest I use to encapsulate one, so that it doesn’t break or yellow over time (the cookie is coated with white icing)? I’ve gone to the craft store and saw various kinds of resins, acrylic spray, Mod Podge, etc…I am a bit overwhelmed with all the products out there.
Hi Bele,
First, you are going to have to find a way to completely dehydrate the cookie. Otherwise, it will spoil in the resin. Once the cookie is as dry as possibly, carefully coat it with a couple layers of sealer spray. This one in our shop is the one I like to use: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/castin-craft-gloss-resin-sealer-spray?variant=965319185 After it is sealed, you can use resin. Were you wanting to cast it in a mold or dome resin on the surface? That will help me make a recommendation for you.
You should also know that unfortunately, all resins are going to yellow over time. Resins with UV inhibitors and stabilizers help extend the time before yellowing occurs. However, things such as mixing off ratio (even though it still can cure without tackiness), putting over an improperly cured lacquer, excessive heat, and or constant exposure to sunlight can speed up the yellowing process. How long the epoxy will last in its clear state is very difficult to predict.
Thanks Katherine from your prompt reply! I will definitely be ordering the sealer spray, thanks for the recommendation. I am looking to coat the cookies, similar to the cookies as seen in this video I found:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K_fpOK-bss&t=29s&list=PL394BDBAB426E1EF5&index=17
Would this be called dome resining on the surface? Do you have any tips as to how to achieve this? Would I brush the resin onto the top of the cookies using a paintbrush, wait to harden, then brush the back? Then sand and polish afterwards? I am unsure how to get both the front and back coated…and then also the sides so that it is fully encased so the cookie won’t spoil! Any suggestions would be appreciated – thank you so much Katherine!
You have been so incredibly helpful! Thank you SO much Katherine — will try this out!!!
I have to repair a guitar neck. It’s not wood. It’s aluminum that had some sort of paint on it between the frets and rubbed off. I stripped and sanded the whole thing. I need a really hard and durable coating that will not be to thick. I plan to tint with powdered black dye.
Hi! I make monsters out of polymer clay and want to make stringy saliva out of a clear resin to hang from the teeth. I’ve never experimented with resin so I’m not sure what type may give this effect. I’m assuming I would let the resin sit a while and begin to thicken and then spread it on the teeth to create the dripping effect. Does anyone know what kind of resin could work in this way?
Unfortunately, I don’t know that resin will work for what you want to do. It isn’t going to freeze very easily in a drip form without you having to babysit it for several hours. If you wanted to try, I would suggest trying a very quick cure polyurethane resin (less than two minute pot time).
Thank you, this article was very enlightening! I am new to Resin products and am looking for something that can withstand heat. You mentioned that epoxy can not withstand the heat from a sanding wheel. Is there another type that would be more appropriate? Something that could handle 180 degree temperatures?
Will the resin be at a constant 180 or is this occasionally? That will best help me to make a recommendation.
It would be occasionally.
A polyester or polyurethane resin is what I would try. Check with the manufacturer of the specific product you want to use.
Hi Ms. Katherine, thank you for sharing this.
Im planning to make accessories like necklace , bracelets earings. pendants and things like for souvenirs and displays. i havent tried it and looking for help about it.
if i were to use epoxy resin, is any type of colorant may be used? and for glow in the dark resins designs which type i can use?
if i were to put paper or photos will i have to do something before putting it in? how about petals and leaves? will it stay its freshness for long?
is any colorants can be used in polyester?
I am planning to make also a display about 3 by 3 inch and 1foot tall, and want to put LED lightings in it, , im also gonna put designs in it. so which is the best choice?
Sorry for giving you so much to answer. i was just really into resins after i had seen videos of it.
Thank you again!
We have a bunch of colorants, including glow in the dark, in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants
Papers and flowers will need to be sealed before including them in resin. We have a few articles on how to do that here: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
For your large casting, a polyester resin is what I would choose, although I don’t recommend it for beginners. We have one in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/castin-craft-polyester-resin-16-oz?variant=965320113
Hello,
i am so happy i have found your website! You are so helpful ans inspiring to me! I am making jewelry with epoxy for years now and i am still not absolutely satisfied with the outcome, but i have become super stubborn 🙂 So a phenomena that happens, is that my jewelry becomes matte over time, so it is shiny in the beginning, no reaction on the surface after the “watertest” but when someone starts wearing the earrings, the surface gets matte after around 10-14 days.. so my question would be either if you would know, whats happening there and how i can avoid this to happen, but i also wonder if there would be an issue if i would seal the epoxy in the end with uv resin to “keep the trouble in”. (I laminate objects up to 15 times and i can imagine sth went wrong in one of the layers and that keeps bleeding through..) and if the uv resin could stop the bleeding..
i hope my question wasnt to confusing and i would be soo happy to hear back from you!
What kind/brand of resin are you using?
I live in germany and use a german epoxy, it is called hock which is a very good brand as far as i know..
how do uv resins and epoxy resins work together? do you think the uv resin could seal the surface?
HI Katherine!
I have worked with the envirolite resin before but this was mostly for coatings. Now, I am trying to develop a large resin chain handle for a handbag. I use different colors inside the resin as well. I am having some silicone molds made and have 2 different questions. 1. What would be the best type of resin to use for making a whole object in resin and not just a coating. As it is a handle for a bag, it will need to be somewhat durable and able to set well inside a mold. 2. What is the best type of silicone for making the molds I need? 3. If I am making the molds on the half (2 sides of the chain that must be combined after – what is the best way to combine or “glue” the 2 sides together. Hope this was clear. Thank you so much… your information is very helpful!
The Resin Obsession super clear resin works well for casting projects. It cures very hard and if you are careful in mixing, bubbles are almost never a problem. You can find it in several sizes in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession Since you are only making a a half side of the link at once, most any pourable molding material will work for you since the shape isn’t complicated and doesn’t have any undercuts. We have several molding options in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/mold-making-materials Once you demold your chain pieces, you can use some mixed epoxy to glue them together. Either use some of your resin the next time you mix it or a 5 minute ‘hardware store’ epoxy should do well. Good luck!
hi im new to using resins and im having trouble finding info. i want to make a tabletop using an old lipped table. i want to put down tarot cards and some crystals throughout and then use a resin to seal it in place. what could i use that would do this? i was thinking epoxy cause everyone told me it’s easy to use and looks great but how would i make it to not scuff or dent, since you said it does that, and still keep it clear? thank you for your help and the article.
Ha! I guess I’d better quit polishing pours of my 2:1 epoxy.
Seriously, you can polish epoxy, you just need to slow the polisher down and move over the material faster.
I turn wood and, frequently, fill large cracks with epoxy (I keep a gallon and a half around for various woodworking and other projects, so it’s convenient).
After turning, I have to sand the surface, then buff it to bring the epoxy back to clear.
Hi Kelly, yes, you are correct in that some epoxies can be polished, but in general, it doesn’t work out well. (Part of the fun of resin is learning the rules, then breaking them!) In addition to your suggestions above, wood turners have told me they need extra water for cooling pieces if they are doing it on a lathe. The specific manufacturer can generally give better advice.
P.S. Thanks for a helpful site with a LOT of very useful information.
Hi, what an amazing site! I’m looking to set the bases of three bottles into resin to make one centre piece. I was thinking of making a circular mould, approx 12inches diameter, standing the bottles in it and pouring in some resin. Finished thing needs to be robust enough to be moved from table to table. Couple of questions. – what resin would you recommend? – how thick should the pour be? – could I use a silicone cake mould? Thanks so much in advance
Thinking ahead — how are you going to move this without handles? It could get quite heavy.
Sorry, don’t think I made myself clear – only looking at a table centre – probably using a 9″ circular mould and 3 bottles….
Hi, I am painting bathroom tiles with acrylic paints. What kind of resin would be the most waterproof to seal these? I am doing some tiles around a vanity and some in the shower. The shower tiles are the ones that concern us the most.
Will they have consistent exposure to water or only occasional?
Hi Katherine, no they will not have consistent exposure to water. The tiles around the vanity will only occasionally get wet when we clean them. But the ones in the shower will have quite a bit of water exposure when the shower is used. Now, this is for a guest bathroom, so even then it will probably only be used a few times a year.
Hi Katherine; thanks for your very helpful info here and elsewhere. Apologize if this has been asked and answered…
I want to cast a bowl (8″ diameter, 6″ tall, 3/8 thick except at base). I made a silicone mold, under pressure, and expect to cure the casting under pressure as well. I want to create a faux marble or granite look similar to what I see from the counter top creators, if possible, but open pour area of the mold (= size of the base about 4″) doesn’t give much maneuvering room.
This is a hollow bowl, not meant for woodturning. I would like to be able to take it out of the mold and be done, maybe some polishing if anything. I need to make 10 of these exact same size & shape, but colors can vary.
So far I’ve done small test casts (no pressure pot, so lots of bubbles in deep stuff) with a 1:1 epoxy meant for coating tabletops, and with 1:1 clear amber polyurethane resin.
Problems I’m having is that the color striations (using poly dye, pearl powder and/ or alcohol inks) mix more on their own than I’d like, and/or sink down to the bottom into a generic mass. Other things like glitter, mica, etc. seem to either float or sink.
I know I will have to experiment to achieve the effects I want, but I’ve been told that my problems are largely due to viscosity and cure time of the resins. The guy who likes poly says use a resin with thickening filler to keep color veins from moving around, or else one with a very short pot life Ha! mix, batch out and color, manipulate the color while pouring and get it into the chamber pot — all in under 3 minutes? The guy who likes epoxy is a woodturner who pours blanks with all kinds of junk in addition to color or pearl powders, but he always gets interesting patterns and striations due to turning.
Sorry for the long comment. I just think your butcher shop analogy is dead on, so I tried to explain what my intentions and desires for this cast. So, epoxy or polyurethane resin?
Any advice would be soooooo appreciated. I feel like I’ve watched every woodturning and industrial parts casting video there is, but still keep coming back to resin obsession for spot on info.
Thanks, Jan
I should add that this bowl needs to stand up to rough handling, but hopefully not being dropped.
Thanks for all the information Janet. It is obvious you have put a lot of thought into this!
Based upon what you want to do, I think a clear polyurethane is best. Polyurethanes do well in molds and hold up with a polishing wheel and compound. To get them bubble free, especially in this situation, a pressure pot is necessary. (You have that going on for you already.)
Unfortunately, we don’t sell clear polyurethanes as they tend to have a short shelf life. Alumilite (we sell some of their other resins) has some good ones. (www.alumilite.com) I would refer you to them for a specific product recommendation based upon what you are trying to accomplish. Please let them know we referred you.
Before you work with polyurethanes, you should know they are fussy with moisture, so only used colorants designed specifically for them. Powders/glitters/mica need to be bone dry as well.
I would love to see how this turns out for you!
Hi Katherine. I want to make bracelets (bangles) that are not solid resin….but rather have a Styrofoam core, which I will coat with plaster of paris. I will smooth it down and hopefully coat it with a colored(transparent) resin or polyurethane. I will be painting it on, rather than dipping it. It will require several coates, with sanding in between. And maybe a final dip in resin to smooth things out. I am imagining transparent colors. Big bold bracelets, like a large donut actually. But it would be lighter weight because of the foam and plaster center. Should I use a clear resin for painting on, or a polyurethane for it? Thank for the advice…. Bill
Have you done something like this before? I ask because the bracelet will have to be constantly rotated while curing to get an even finish. If you want to try, a doming epoxy resin is what you need. We have several in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/doming
Thank you for the prompt response. I have not tried it before. And I will look into the doming resin as a possible solution. The constant rotation problem hadn’t occurred to me. Thank you again….Bill.
Room Divider Panels:
Hi Katherine, very informative thank you.
I’m looking to make some room divider panels that I want to add some translucent colours to. I’m looking to cast them onto some 5mm thick polyester or PET3 sheets.
Any advice please?
Hi Katherine. I do paper beads for jewellery. Could I use the very runny epoxy to dip the pieces in for a very fine coating ? or even brush it on? if dipping, how would you suggest drying them without sticking on the stick(to keep the whole intact) or on the surface?
Brushing it on is what I would do. Prop up the beads on toothpicks coated with wax or wax paper to let them cure. Something similar to what I show here: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/decoupage-bracelet-tutorial Flipping the beads a few times during the first couple of hours will also help with preventing drips.
I am lpoking to make a hard plastic stand that is heat and non-conductive but cant find any informative web sites that states these needs iten will have movement pressure on occasion and will need to not shatter under the load because it will be screwed to metal using it as a electrical insulator item will be about 1/4 of a inch thick at finish. Any ideas on what plastic resin i could use?
I’m afraid I don’t.
I would like to make plugs that go into your earlobe what is the safest and best brand?
The Alumilite Amazing clear cast epoxy resin is considered food safe after a full 7 day cure. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/alumilite
Looking for a resin I can cast bullets and shotgun shells in. I want that glass clear finish with no bubbles and for it to be hard and durable.
The Resin Obsession super clear resin would work great for this. You can find it in several sizes in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession
I’m looking for an epoxy resin or safer alternative to a poly resin I have been using called SG2000. Most part B mixes in poly resins are hazardous and have been linked to cancer and I’m really worried as I need to use a resin on a regular basis and long term for my figurines due to the amount I need to make each week. Every time I read data sheets on many resins they all include the same harmful substances. Are there any safer resins that can be demolded sooner than 30 minutes that are not as harmful?
My figurines are fairly small and measure max 3″ high. I use a single silicone mold and require a low viscosity as I have 2 pouring holes in base of mold that measure approx 0.4″ wide.
I need something that can be painted over with acrylic.
thanks for any help.
It sounds like you need a quick curing polyurethane resin. We have two in our store here:
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-casting-resin-16-oz-opaque-white
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/castin-craft-fastcast-quick-curing-resin-8-oz-kit
Just wanted to ask a question here that I can’t seem to find an answer for elsewhere and every “resin” search I do includes this site. Anyhoo, on to the question:
Why isn’t UV resin more readily available in the USA?
The only suppliers are online and overseas. I would think with as awesome as the stuff is that it would be very popular here. I don’t have a problem with buying things from overseas (I love all things Japan).
You can get UV resin in the U.S. Try Nunn Design.
I am new to using resin and have created a bottle cap table, just finishing gluing the caps down now.
Before I attempt to finish it with the resin I made a small tray with bottle caps and poured the Envirotex Lite resin. It worked great and gave me a boost of confidence I needed. I have two questions
1- The coverage on the tray is almost 100% There is a few areas were the resin did not completely cover the bottle cap. Will this affect the durability of the tray when it is being used? I could try to pour another small amount but have a very limited space until it will reach the bottom of the opening for your hands.
2 – I have two different types of resin left. Envirotex Lite and Easy Cast. Can I use these interchangeably? Pour a layer of one, let it cure and pour a layer of the other?
Thank you.
I don’t know that non-coverage of the tray with resin will affect the durability, but it may wear down in places you don’t want it to. While I haven’t tried interchanging those two resins, I have used different epoxies within the same project and been happy with the results.
Thank you for your quick response
What do you think of UV resins? I’d like your take on them.
You aren’t the only one to ask this question. I talk about it here: https://www.resinobsession.com/forums/topic/uv-resin
Would the resin be able to be used to pour over a finished stone well to solidify it?
Yes
I am looking to make different objects out of used coffee grounds. Examples being “non food use” cups, carving blocks and such. What type of epoxy resin should I use? It seems like it would be a good fit. As I am looking to basically make thick solid coffee ground objects
Thank you
Since it sounds like you are using molds, the Resin Obsession super clear resin will work well for your project. You can find it in several sizes in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession
Hey Katherine,
Thank you for such a fantastic and Informational website!
I am going to make some silicon moulds to create 3D raindrops (about the size of a hand) and was hoping an epoxy resin would work for a deep casted mould, as well as having enough time to mix pigments into it.
Is an epoxy is the best option to use with silicon or if you have any better ideas on what products go well together.
The end result is hopefully not too bubbly (but I’m not sure I can control that with a deep 3D cast) and a clear transparency, any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Bianca 🙂
You need to use a casting resin specifically designed for deep casts.
Hello
I have never worked with resin before. I am wanting to make a wooden open backed bezel pendant with dried flowers/ferns. What resin would you suggest I use for a clear polished look. The easier the better. Also Is there a non-toxic resin that can safely be used around children and animals?
Hi Lauren, were you wanting to work the resin after you cast it? i.e. sanding, polishing, etc. I’m happy to make a recommendation.
Hey,
I’m wanting to cast a bottle cork in resin with a light pink tint that I can then put in a square frame. Any tips on what’s best to use to get to the end goal? I’ve never done anything like this before so any help would be much appreciated!
Cheers.
Hi Adam, follow the concepts in this article: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-make-a-bottle-cap-resin-coaster/ . Seal the cork with a clear drying white glue first and allow to dry, otherwise the cork will release bubbles into the resin. We have the pink colorants, square shaped mold and resin in our store to get you started:
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/molds/square
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/resin-obsession
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession
im making a diy coffee table using an old wooden spool. i wish to pour a crystal clear resin about an inch deep. i did the volume calc, it will require a few gallons. which resin will be the best?
A clear doming resin is best. (Also plan on doing it in a few pours, otherwise, bubbles may be hard to get out.) . We have a few in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/doming
Hey there! I’m a beginner looking to make Resin heart shaped key chains and was wondering which brand of Resin is great to use?
The Resin Obsession super clear resin sounds great for this project. It’s designed for molds and cures quite hard. You can find it in several sizes in our store here:
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession
I would like to fill the cracks in our heated concrete floor with gold resin. What type of resin and pigments would you recommend?
Something appropriate for flooring. Unfortunately, we don’t sell those so I don’t have a recommendation for you.
I want to cover some lace in epoxy (?).I have never used this material…I do not want the lace to stick to the surface where I work..I want to use it is a pendant or other similar things and for t to e completely transparent. .Do I just dip it into the resin and hang it to dry but I guess the resin will drip.
Have you thought about putting it in a jewelry bezel, then filling it with resin? We have several styles of jewelry bezels here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/findings/Pendants
In my childhood school days i hv seen the making of doll and toy ,the teacher apply some liquid to a doll shape and when it dry ,it can be remove with a flexibility and take the shape of the doll .Then put the plaster of paris to the newly shapes to make the doll. So i wanted to know the name of the liquid which is apply to take the shape of the particular doll.
I want to make carbonfiber bords 1/2 inch thick with a glow in the dark middle but I’m unsure what is the best resin for this can any one help me.
Today was my first time using polyester resin by castin craft. I cant say that I’m a huge fan just because it’s kind of difficult to get the correct catalyst amounts so it seems like theres one piece in my mold that isnt curing, I had no idea it was going to melt through plastic cups so it dripped, and the smell was very intense. I was wondering what brand of epoxy resin can be recommended? I have used the castin craft epoxy resin but I do notice the “soft” aspect of it. I was considering trying out artresin, but I am taking recommendations.
Hi Alan, what are you using the resin to make? I’m happy to make a recommendation.
what type of resin could i use to adhere colored pencils together then turn then into a bowl on a lathe. It makes beautiful pieces!
Hi Glenn, you will want to use a polyurethane resin for a project like this.
Hello – I’m hoping you can help me as I am new to epoxy/resin. I have done an acrylic pour on glass and would like to know what I should use if I want to use this art project outdoors. It will be exposed to all weather conditions during the summer months. I’ve heard Art Resin is a good product as far as UV and can be used outdoors, however, it is quite expensive. Can you tell me which product you would use for this? Also, do I have to seal the acrylic paint on the glass prior to coating with epoxy/resin? Thanks for your help!
Hi Sue, unfortunately, epoxy resin isn’t a good choice for your project. Unfortunately, all resins yellow with time, especially with constant UV light exposure. It will only be a few weeks to months before your project is noticeably yellow. Secondly, resin and glass don’t do well together. They contract and expand at different rates with the temperature. Your glass will eventually crack.
Hello! Your post is very helpful for beginners. I do notebook bindings, I don’t have any knowledge about resins so I wish to ask about how to really use epoxy resin because I’m still confused, like the mixing and the measurements of the catalysts; plus what type of resin was that one you needed to cover with a plastic cap or something? I try to search it out but there is just too many types of resin, and I’m clearly confused. hope you can help me out 🙂
Hi Deborah, let me help make this easier for you. Here’s a few articles to help you out:
How to measure and mix resin: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/how-to-measure-and-mix-epoxy-resin-and-hardener/
How to choose a resin: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/what-kind-of-resin-should-i-use/
Hi Katherine,
I want to request MSDS the latest review 2018 or 2019 of resin past cast-A and Past cast-B appreciate if you can help me on this. Thank You.
Hi Satria, I’m afraid I’m not familiar with Past Cast Resin.
I am interested in casting a cabochon with a silicon mold and polyester resin. I plan to use a thin flat mother of pearl shell as backing. My question is, should I worry about under-bubbling if I top the resin filled mold with this shell?
Also, will the chemicals of the heated polyester resin melt the shell and ruin it while it cures?
The goal is to cast a tiny scorpion inside, with the iridescent pearl shell as the base of the cabochon. Will the polyester mealy the organic material that is the scorpion?
While I haven’t done projects like these with polyester resin, I have done them with epoxy resin and been happy with the results.
Hi Katherine,
Thanks so much for writing this article! I found it super informative. If you don’t mind me asking, could I get your advice on which resin is best for my project? I have some polymer clay pendants that I would like to coat in resin, but I’m not sure which would be best for this. I like the idea of the crystal clear polyester resin, but I worry that the heat wouldn’t be enough to cure, or that too much heat might be damaging to the pendant. Any thoughts or advice you could give me?
Hi Courtney, thanks for the kind words. 🙂 For what you want to do, polyester resin is not a good choice because it is a casting resin. Instead, you should use a doming resin. We have several in our store that would work for your project: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/doming
Thank you so much! I’ll give them a try!
Such a great blog because this blog is really very helpful.
I can’t get a top shiny coat on epoxy resin mangles with gloss sprays of any kind I’ve tried and recoating the whole flakes off, how can I shine these beyond high grit sandpaper and buffing paste to get that epoxy shine? Also, 2nd question, besides alumiite which resins are doming resin?
What are you using to recoat your pieces?
We have several doming resins in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/doming
I have tried all modge podge products and epoxy sprays – every gloss spray…
I was looking on creating a resin table. However i wanted to insert some live flowers into the resin rivers as a main feature. Would i have to cast the flowers first then place them in and cast over with something like a epoxy for the resin rivers? or could i place them in and just pour straight on top? many thanks in advance, Ryan
Hi Ryan, you could do either, but if you want the flowers to stay in a particular part of the river, you will need to pour in layers.
Hi I have created a stone carving about 3 feet by 4 feet. 6ins .With part of the middle taken out. The idea is to fill in with a clear resin. maybe a bit of colour in part of it. Which resin and how can you hold it in place. Without it sticking
Hi Ian, if you place your stone on a section of tape, you can fill it with resin without it running out underneath. You will need a casting resin for this project. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession
I have several gallons of 2 part epoxy for concrete floors. I was curious if I could use it for making table tops/ river tables?
Hi Andrew, probably not. Epoxy for floors is usually meant to be poured in thin layers.
Hi Kathryn – I am trying to permanently suspend small trinkets inside a large liquor bottle, and am wondering if clear resin or silicone would work for that purpose, and if so, what type you would recommend. My concerns would be that it would not cure properly using that much volume of resin, or the cured piece would make the bottle too heavy and ultimately break the glass. Your advice? Thanks so much!
I am trying to permanently suspend small trinkets inside a large clear glass decorative liquor bottle, and am wondering if a clear resin or silicone would work for that purpose. If so, what type would you recommend? My concern would be that it would not cure completely, or would make the bottle too heavy and risk breaking the glass. Your suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks so much…
Hi Janet, you have a lot going on here! I want to help you with your project, and I think this situation is best suited for a one-on-one consulting call where you and I talk back and forth about what’s going on. A 15-minute consultation call is $20. I do them by video so I can have a chance to see what you are working on. If you are interested, please send a message through the ‘contact us’ page and I can get this going for you. Sincerely, Katherine @ Resin Obsession
Hi there. I’m about to use some kind of resin to coat a (bass) guitar fretboard. The coating needs to be as hard as possible as it will have to withstand the constant friction of the strings. In the same time, it has to be as transparent as possible. The fretboard will be defretted (no frets) and will be slightly curved, so there will be a lot of sanding and polishing involved. The thickness of the coating will be about 0.5 to 1 mm thick. What’s the best epoxy tipe I should use for the project?
I’m not sure resin is a good choice for this project. A layer that thin is not going to withstand a lot of sanding and polishing.
I’m new to this and I think I bought the wrong resin I got fiberglass resin any idea that’ll even hardened to turn into a sculpture or a design or anything or if I can pour over an acrylic painting will that be able to use it at all thank you for your help where can I find it I got mine at Home Depot
Kyle
Hi Kyle, unfortunately, fiberglass resin is not a suitable choice for coating artwork.
Hey everyone! I’m a complete newbie with resin, but have seen some amazing videos on things that can be done using epoxy resin. I am wanting to make a backsplash for my kitchen (which would run above my stove and sink and below a window that gets quite a bit of sunlight). I was thinking I could pour the resin into a tile mold and then adhere it to the wall and ta da! Backsplash! What would work best for this project or will epoxy resin even work like a ceramic tile? Thanks for any help or advise here!
The most comprehensive post I’ve found about this – thank you! I’m looking to use resin a little unconventionally… I want to create thick drips on a ceramic mug (they will be tinted with pigment and glitter). I’m currently using ArtResin (epoxy resin), which I like but it seems to take AGES to get thick enough for me to work without it running right off the mug, and it never cures quite as hard as I would like. Would you say this is still my best bet, or would you recommend a different type of resin? Thanks VERY much in advance!
Hi Teralee, we have another product coming soon that I think would make a great choice for your project. I hope you don’t mind if I get in touch with you in a couple of weeks to share more details!
I make canes and walking sticks as a hobby. I am a hunter and recently went on an elk hunt. Walking in the forest we collected a number of elk femurs in different stages of turning white from the sun and drying out. I made a cane from them by drilling out a 1/2 inch hole and inserting a 1/2 inch dowel the entire length. I used 2 part epoxy to glue the bones together after cutting off the knuckles square to each other. I filled the voids with a 2 part resin that never hardened all the way. It leaked out and was very tacky.
I assume I used the wrong stuff. So that is where I need help. Since some of the bone have cracks in them I wanted to stabilize them. That was my thought behind the resin.
Would a casting resin be a better choice? Or a 2 part epoxy glue.
It turned out great and I have another to do as well as a beef bone segmented cane.
Hi James, what a neat project! It’s hard for me to say what would be the best product for you to use without seeing exactly what you are working on. I think this situation is best suited for a one-on-one consulting call where you and I talk back and forth about what’s going on. A 15-minute consultation call is $20. I do them by video so I can have a chance to see what you are working on.
If you are interested, please send a message through the ‘contact us’ page and I can get this going for you. Sincerely, Katherine @ Resin Obsession
I am looking for new materials to make dnd dice with, people typically use epoxy resin which they cure in silicon molds for this but I was wondering if standard casting resin could be used for this?
Hi Patricia, I don’t know what ‘standard casting resin’ is, but epoxy resin works great to make DND dice. The Resin Obsession super clear casting resin works great for a project like this: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
It’s annoying how much epoxy quality differs from different suppliers. I’ve been using glass cast for ages now but I want to try something new, it’s really hard to find anything decent in the UK. I’m jealous of how many epoxy options people from the US have haha
Yes, I would feel the same way. I wish we could ship it to you!
I’m a major newbie and I’m just wondering what tips or type of resin/epoxy You would recommend for me, I am doing a 10cm vertical rectangle rose display, it’s a gift
Hi Kaytlin, we have some beginner articles here: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/beginner/
My teenage daughter and I just started working with resin – and we love it! The problem is my daughter breaks out in hives whenever she is close to our work area. She is disappointed she can’t participate so I am hoping there are non-allergic alternatives to epoxy resin. Any suggestions? Many thanks.
I want to put 1/4″ thick resin over a marquetry veneer table i made, what would be clearest, least bubbles resin to use?
Hi Brittany,
You will need to create a tape dam, then use the Resin Obsession artwork resin in two pours, each 1/8 inch deep. You can find the resin in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-artwork-resin
I just started with resin – I’m making little magnets to work as needle holders for embroidery right now. I am using a mold and I am not filling it to the top (I don’t want the magnet to be that thick) and have some issues with it creeping up the sides of the mold, which makes for more clipping and sanding after, which loses some of the brilliance. Would a doming resin work better for it to make the top look “nicer”? It’s very basic as far as resin: a small neodynium magnet, a little bit of mica powder and maybe some glitter. I’ve also thought about doing a small clear base of resin, then putting in the magnet, then more on top after the first run cures (to keep the magnet in the center of the resin) Terrible or good idea? I currently am using EasyCast.
From a friend: her husband is trying to cover a table, and they’re having issue with it not having the nice rounded edge on top, I figured using a doming resin might help, is that bad advice?
Last question, then a suggestion 🙂 My cat LOVES wire slicker brushes. I got a bunch of them that can be laid flat, and was going to set them in a relatively thin layer of resin to give her a big mat of slicker brushes 🙂 Epoxy should still be good for that, right? It won’t be thick or over the max amount per the bottle.
Lastly, a suggestion for those who live in cooler climates. I live in San Francisco on the foggy/cool side of town. I try not to cast when the fog is bad, but avoiding cool weather is not possible LOL I keep my house around 67-68 degrees, which is not ideal for casting. I had one disastrous casting because the resin was too cool to start with, and then I didn’t warm it enough. I tried a small room with a space heater, which was ok, but then I got a “seedling germination mat”, which is a low temperature heating pad for plants (similar to cat heating pads that are just slightly above average room temperature) I warm my resin in water before I start, work on the mat, uncovered, and then when it is time to cure, I place a styrofoam lid from a frozen shipment over it, with space for ventilation (so it doesn’t get too hot under there) It has really worked well and I’m thrilled with the results. Seedling or cat heaters are usually 15-30 bucks, so they are an inexpensive way to heat up your resin without making my house unlivably warm!
Hi Susan, I’m afraid it’s normal for resin charms to get an edge, regardless of the resin you are using. This video on our youtube channel explains more: https://youtu.be/S6xlrNQDp_0
For a table coating, yes, you want to use a doming resin. This is the one I would use: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-artwork-resin
An epoxy resin will work great for covering your brushes: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/epoxy
I am looking to cover some fondant cake topper decorations from kids past birthdays in resin to make the robust keepsakes. They have hardened over time but are a little delicate still and can’t be exposed to moisture really. I was thinking of Epoxy resin coating but there are a lot of types. I found a video that used ArtResin and my local art shop sells Holcroft Pour on Gloss…. any recommendations would be appreciated. I thought I’d just brush it on.
Hi Nic, for a project like this, the Resin Obsession crystal doming resin works great. You can buy it in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-crystal-doming-resin
Sadly you don’t seem to be able to ship that item to Australia. 🙁
Unfortunately Nic, due to U.S. laws, shipping resins to you in Australia is not possible. I do wish things were different.
Hi
I am building lamp with toy figures in it, about the size of a 2litre coca-cola bottle which would be the best resin to use and shall i layer it to reduce bubbles or stick whole lot in wait till bubbles rise and heat gun them out
Hi Michael, for what you want to do, the Resin Obsession deep pour resin will work great. You can get it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
Pour it no more than two inches at once and use a heat gun to remove surface bubbles.
This article gives more tips how to handle bubbles in resin: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-bubbles/
We want to make a gravestone for my dad out of cement and include some items he liked and then put a layer of resin over to protect it. Is this achievable or is there any other option?
Hi Anita, I’m sorry for your loss. I don’t know how well resin will do in the direct sunlight over time. I’m worried the resin will want to warp or peel off the headstone.
What should I use for flexible/soft doming? I am looking creating a gel effect for stickers and so they’ll need to be applied onto slightly curved surfaces. Also, is there an impact resistant coating that can be used in doming?
Hi. I have done a little lockdown project. I had a large plastic barrel, now cut in half with a wooden top added so it looks like a small round table. I have put some tile adhesive on the top and added my lockdown bottle tops. Then I have put black grout on and sealed the bottle tops in. I have them put another layer of bottle tops on using a clear adhesive underneath to stick them on. I am going to put something around the edge of the top and seal it. Then i Need to put a clear resin on it. I don’t have any experience in resin or anything craft/art. But it’s looking good so far. I want to put something on that will set and be able to use it as a small coffee table. What do you suggest that’s safe!
Hi Fiona, the Resin Obsession artwork resin works great for a project like this. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-artwork-resin
I’m looking to start making serving trays, coasters, and jewlery dishes. I want these to be the best quality and as hard as they can be. Which resin from your line would you recommend and what is another one outside of your line?
That sounds like a great project Alycia!
For pours of 3 ounces or less, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is what you want: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
For pours of 3 ounces or more, the Resin obsession deep pour casting resin will work: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
I’m afraid there isn’t a resin outside our line that I recommend for a project like this.
I want to put a resign on a piece of board. Later to be used for cold foods. Not sure of a finish I could use that isn’t toxic.
Hi Toni, one of our food contact safe resins is a great choice for a project like this. You can buy them in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/foodsafe
I’m trying to replicate historic tin ceiling tiles. Would I need to make a cast or can I pour directly over the metal tile and what type resin to use? Will need to paint it.
thanks
Hi Jon, you will need to make a mold of the ceiling tile, then use a casting resin in the mold. You can buy casting resin in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/casting
Hi, does anybody have any recommendations whether a polyester resin with PVA2488 or PVA1788 is more suitable for resin casting for furniture? Are there any differences in the curing time / hardness / resistance / moisture reaction / etc.?
Any insights greatly appreciated, as I cannot find much information on google about this
Hi Dylan, in general, polyester cures harder than epoxy resin. If you are making something to go outside, polyester will weather better.
Hi,
I want to make polymer clay jewelry with beads and pearls. After making I need to cover it with high gloss epoxy. What type of high gloss epoxy can I use?
Hi Karine, the Resin Obsession crystal doming resin works great to give a glossy coating to polymer clay jewelry. You can buy it in several sizes in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-crystal-doming-resin
Hi. I am cutting wine bottles to make vases. I want to protect the paper labels on the bottles by coating the whole thing with resin. What would you recommend? Thanks!
Hi Theresa, yes, you can do that, but you have to keep the bottle moving the entire time, otherwise, the resin will pool. This article will give you some ideas on how to do that: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/resin-tumbler-diy/
I saw a technique about pouring it over the upside-down bottle while it’s lifted off the table and just let the resin run down the sides. I was thinking that would work if I sanded down the top edge when it was cured? But in either case, the Resin Obsession crystal doming resin would be the best choice? I’m assuming that one cures harder than some of the others? Thanks!
Hi Theresa, yes, the crystal doming resin works great for a project like this. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-crystal-doming-resin
Hi is there a soft resin that can be drilled and morticed after it’s cured? Thank you
Hi Adre, soft and hard-curing resins can be drilled after curing. This article explains how to drill resin: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/can-you-drill-holes-in-resin-how-to-drill-holes-in-resin/
Hi Katherine. I am so excited to find an expert like you! I have a ceramic statue of a boy that sits in a tree in front of my house. I added my son’s winter cap to it and would not like to make it a permanent addition. I wonder if I could dip the cap in an epoxy and then put it back on the statue’s head, then add another layer to it after the initial layer has cured. Ideally I would like the hat to stay dark gray. What kind of epoxy or resin or other substance might you try for such a challenge?
Hi Sherry, I’m afraid resin isn’t a good use for a project like this. It’s going to discolor your son’s cap, plus it will be hard to maintain the shape while curing.
Hi Katherine!
I’m looking to completely coat a 1/2 inch platter in resin, both top and bottom and side of the board. What makes this trickier is that the platter has air bubble holes on the surface which resin has a hard time covering and usually I need multiple coats. I tried art resin, which was easy to apply by brush and it coated the sides well, however, I found it cured too soft and was indented easily. I have tried table top resin but it doesn’t coat the uneven surface that well, nor the sides evenly.
Do you have coating resin that you could recommend that can handle uneven surfaces, cures hard, and is food safe?
Thanks!
Hi Allie, I’m afraid I don’t. In general, coating resins cure soft and can dent.
I am not a resin artist so my experience is very limited. I would like to make a resin/epoxy pour into a hole cut into a bathroom shower surround. The surround is not mounted on the wall yet, so I can turn it to make this pour. I have also “patched” the hole from the back using fiberglass cloth and a general purpose epoxy by TAPP. The patch worked fine. However, when I mixed it to test for the color for the pour, it cured too yellow even after adding their tint to match the white tub. Adding more tint makes for too soft a cure. The pour is 1/8″ to 1/4″ deep. I need a recommendation for a product that can be dyed/tinted a pure white and then cure well enough to be in a shower environment. Also a recommendation for which dye/tint to go with the recommended resin would be appreciated too. Thank you.
Hi Cheryl, I don’t have any experience with resin under repeated water exposure like this. I’m not sure how well it would do.
Okay. Can you tell me what dries clearest or whitest and hardest at app. 3/8″ depth? Thanks.
Hello!
I want to make a vintage door into a tabletop for my deck. I thought I could decorate the indentations with decoupage then fill in with the epoxy so it becomes a flat surface. I am a total beginner…what do you recommend?
Hi Heidi, you’ll need to figure out how much total resin to use. Once you know that, for pours of 3 ounces or less, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is what you want: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
For pours of 3 ounces or more, the Resin obsession deep pour casting resin works great: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin. After that, coat it with a layer of Resin Obsession artwork resin to give it an even glossy coat: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-artwork-resin
I hope someone answers this: what type of resin should I use for a knife handle? I am not gluing wood pieces together. I want to cast a clear resin handle with small sea shells in it and then sand it to the shape I need. Around 6 inches long, and an inch in diameter. It obviously cannot be sticky once it dries. Thanks!
Hi Billy, what are the full dimensions of the knife handle (height x length x width)?
I want to use coffee beans but don’t want them to spoil my art in a few years. What kind of resin should I use for coffee beans?
Hi
I would like to make a combs that I’ll be able to use and sell. I need resin that will not break. Which one can I use?
The Resin Obsession super clear resin works great for pours of 3 ounces or less. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
Hi Katherine
We would like to make keychains with flowers from a family member’s memorial. We have the petals dried but are unsure which would be the best resin to work with. The petals are the highlight and need to have clear resin that is not going to yellow.
Thoughts?
Thanks for your help
Cheryl
Hi Cheryl, are you using the resin in molds are as a coating?
Great article!! Guess I need a doming resin now? I want to pour over a clear (cake) plate and want the resin to go over the sides (drip over) thinking I can get an “icicle” effect on the edges. Or like water flowed over the edge and froze. It’s for a winter themed wedding.. Is that even possible? If there are instructions or a video on how to do it, could someone steer me in the right direction?
Hi Crystal, yes, a doming resin is what you want to use. This article will give you some ideas on how to decorate a cake plate: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/cupcake-stand-diy/
I’m hoping to do a kids art project using epoxy and molds where they can design their own coaster by putting things into it. The kids are younger (6-7). Is there a safe epoxy that can be used for this? If so, are there any tips you would suggest? Thank you.
Hi Courtney, I’m afraid resin isn’t appropriate for kids in that age range to use.
Just have a question can I use resin to make a backsplash.And if I can what kind would I use thank you
Hi Penny, yes you can. How are you going to make your backsplash? i.e. are you going to use a mold to make the tiles or are you coating another surface? That’s important to know so I can recommend the right resin to use.
can ı use polyurethane as a transparent
Yes, you can.
I want to fill a round 4″ mold with dried roses. It needs to be clear with no bubbles but I’m confused about which resin to use. It’s my first time using resin and these flowers mean a lot to me. I’m hoping that someone could help.
Hi Yulisa, the resin you want to use depends on the volume of your mold. For pours of 3 ounces or less, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is what you want: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
For pours of 3 ounces or more, the Resin obsession deep pour casting resin works great: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
Greetings,
I’m a first time user with resin. My first project is tumblers and dominoes. What resin is best for my project?
Hi Chabria, for the tumblers you want to use the Resin Obsession crystal doming resin: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-crystal-doming-resin
For the dominoes, you want to use the Resin Obsession super clear resin: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
Ok so I’m just getting into resin and I was doing fine but needed something to cure fast and a few people said use polyurethane so I go to the store and asked for help and told them what I needed they told me I needed a can of water based glossy polyurethane! So I took it and went on my way…… so I get home and open it and try it. Needless to say it didn’t work! Can someone please tell e what I need! I am looking for something to cure within an hour or two and I was also told it was much cheaper so that would be great too since I mainly just do this for fun! HELP ME PLEASE!!!
Hi Bonnie, the resin you need depends on whether you’re using it as a coating or in molds. This article explains more: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/best-epoxy-resin/
Totally lovedthe blog. This was so beautifully written adn easily explained. I will definitely give it all a try. Great going <3
You’re welcome.
Hi, i am new to resins. i work with vintage acrylic fountain pens that might have small divots/holes. what is the best resin and color mix for this purpose. thank you.
Hi Arron, you’ll want to use the Resin Obsession super clear resin and Resin Obsession color pigments.