[Amy]

I know there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube and elsewhere about pouring epoxy resin into a backless (see-through) bezel using packing tape to "seal" the backless bezel while pouring and curing the resin. However, my problem comes when I go to remove the packing tape. I end up with creases, lines, and/or textures in the resin surface along with goo left from the tapes adhesive.

1) I have learned that Goo-Gone and other adhesive removers do fine with most epoxy resins to get rid of the packing tape adhesive. However, then I am still left with pieces that have textures, cloudiness, or other problems with the surface of the resin on the side the had the packing tape on it. Any suggestions on how to make that side pretty again — sanding/polishing, spraying with resin spray, painting with another layer of resin??? What about ideas about preventing the problems in the first place? How come my packing tape isnt peeling off and leaving a perfectly smooth surface like shown in the video tutorials?

2) I also have problems de-gassing the backless bezel batches. If I try to run a flame quickly over the top of the pieces, the packing tape on the bottom gets heated up, too, and curls/crinkles, which sometimes just causes all the resin to spill out of the bezels, especially if they are small bezels. My next plan is to try making a tiny batch of resin (using a dual syringe pack) so I can make fewer small bezels at a time, which will *hopefully* de-gas better without needing to use a flame or heat gun. Any other ideas?

Thanks for the insights.

[Amy]

Katherine:

Thanks for your super FAST response, suggestions, and for the video link. Somehow I managed NOT to view that specific video… because the title didnt sound like it involved a backless bezel. DUH!

Some ideas I am going to experiment with in my next batch:

1) Different tapes. I noticed in your video that you used masking tape as opposed to clear packing tape like in the other videos (and like what Ive tried). I am going to set up the same style of bezels on different tapes, including different brands of clear packing tapes. Im also going to try contact paper (sticky side up), as that was suggested in another video tutorial for backless bezels. Im curious to see which type of tape results in a surface that is easier to finish AND results in the nicest, shiny, clear finish.

I think my problem with the bezels not having a flat surface on the back when peeling off the tape is because the clear packing tape crinkled and curled when exposed to the heat from the heat gun for removing bubbles (even though I just ran the heat source quickly over the surface of the TOP of the bezels). Im guessing that doesnt happen when using masking tape instead.

2) I think part of my problem with removing the bubbles is that I am trying to make too large of a batch (of very small items) at once and leaving the resin open beyond its pot life, so that the resin gets too thick for the bubbles to properly escape. Ive only mixed up a 1 ounce batch of resin, but it takes a long time to use that with lots of very small bezels, and the instructions for the resin say never to mix it in a batch smaller than 1 ounce total. I just dont want to waste the resin, so I guess I need to combine batches of small and larger items together so I can use all the resin before it begins to get sticky/thick.

When I use either the heat gun or the micro-torch flame to help get rid of bubbles, I run it very quickly over the surface of the resin.

3) Some other tips I saw that I need to try:

– Being certain not to get fingerprints on the clear packing tape precisely where the open-backed bezel is going to be placed

– Being sure there are no white lines (from where the tape stopped on the roll) or other imperfections/creases on the clear packing tape right where the bezel is going to be placed

– Being sure to burnish where the clear packing tape contacts the bezel back so there is a strong seal

– Being sure the bezel is filled & cured on a flat surface (already tried)

– Being sure not to touch the tape with your stir stick or other tool while dripping the resin into the bezel, or while spreading the resin to the edges of the bezel, or while popping bubbles, or while adding/moving embedded items, etc. (…and this is something I *KNOW* that I did wrong…)

Thanks again! Any suggestions from other people with experience filling open-backed bezels would be appreciated, too. This is a new area of resin for me, but I love the results.

[Katherine Swift]

Yes, your pendants will have that that coarse look on the back when you remove them from the masking tape.  I like to sand them with the technique shown in this video making open backed bezel pendants on our you tube channel:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pX7Lf2H3xgM  I dont know why your pendants dont have a flat surface after peeling off the tape, except that I make sure to use good quality masking tape.  Dont know if that makes a difference.

As for removing bubbles, it sounds like you are leaving the heat on the surface too long.  I will use a heat gun (I never use a flame) on my pieces and never have this problem.  You could also try blowing through a straw over the top of the pieces (BE CAREFUL NOT TO INHALE THE RESIN!) to try to remove the bubbles.  The CO2 in your breath can make the bubbles pop as well.

[Katherine Swift]

Ah yes, I never considered you might be using clear packing tape.  Havent tried that, but I can envision the problems you describe.  Another comment — dont go chintzy on the masking tape.  The cheap stuff wont stick well and will let resin seep out underneath the bottom of the bezel.  Dont use duct tape either.  Too much adhesive!

Pot time and resin can definitely be a problem.  I have experienced what youre talking about here as well.  I think your new strategy of working large and small pieces at the same time is a good one.

Thanks for leaving the other helpful suggestions as well.  Very thoughtful of you!

[HOLLY]

Hi Katherine

i too have tried many many different tapes. I always have issues. Please tell me the brand of masking tape you use? I used to have this wonderful Japanese thick brown packing tape but i can’t find it in the uk. I also need it to be wide as some of my bexels are approx 5cm diameter

thanks
holly

[Katherine Swift]

I try to use 3M masking tape. It is just sticky enough to keep the resin from seeping out, but not so sticky that it makes a mess.

[Amy]

Katherine:

Thanks for your super FAST response, suggestions, and for the video link. Somehow I managed NOT to view that specific video… because the title didnt sound like it involved a backless bezel. DUH!

Some ideas I am going to experiment with in my next batch:

1) Different tapes. I noticed in your video that you used masking tape as opposed to clear packing tape like in the other videos (and like what Ive tried). I am going to set up the same style of bezels on different tapes, including different brands of clear packing tapes. Im also going to try contact paper (sticky side up), as that was suggested in another video tutorial for backless bezels. Im curious to see which type of tape results in a surface that is easier to finish AND results in the nicest, shiny, clear finish.

I think my problem with the bezels not having a flat surface on the back when peeling off the tape is because the clear packing tape crinkled and curled when exposed to the heat from the heat gun for removing bubbles (even though I just ran the heat source quickly over the surface of the TOP of the bezels). Im guessing that doesnt happen when using masking tape instead.

2) I think part of my problem with removing the bubbles is that I am trying to make too large of a batch (of very small items) at once and leaving the resin open beyond its pot life, so that the resin gets too thick for the bubbles to properly escape. Ive only mixed up a 1 ounce batch of resin, but it takes a long time to use that with lots of very small bezels, and the instructions for the resin say never to mix it in a batch smaller than 1 ounce total. I just dont want to waste the resin, so I guess I need to combine batches of small and larger items together so I can use all the resin before it begins to get sticky/thick.

When I use either the heat gun or the micro-torch flame to help get rid of bubbles, I run it very quickly over the surface of the resin.

3) Some other tips I saw that I need to try:

– Being certain not to get fingerprints on the clear packing tape precisely where the open-backed bezel is going to be placed

– Being sure there are no white lines (from where the tape stopped on the roll) or other imperfections/creases on the clear packing tape right where the bezel is going to be placed

– Being sure to burnish where the clear packing tape contacts the bezel back so there is a strong seal

– Being sure the bezel is filled & cured on a flat surface (already tried)

– Being sure not to touch the tape with your stir stick or other tool while dripping the resin into the bezel, or while spreading the resin to the edges of the bezel, or while popping bubbles, or while adding/moving embedded items, etc. (…and this is something I *KNOW* that I did wrong…)

Thanks again! Any suggestions from other people with experience filling open-backed bezels would be appreciated, too. This is a new area of resin for me, but I love the results.

[Rhonda]

 I had backless resin pieces that were rough and translucent instead of clear.

After smoothing and polishing them they were  still dull and translucent.  I tried a thin layer of resin on one and a thin layer of Judikins glaze on the other.  They worked equally well, came out bright and shiny and nearly completely clear.

[Sarah]

Help I have fingerprint on front of my pendant
How can rid of it

Also have a heart pendant that has cracked the corner of heart off

Suggestion please pretty please

Sj

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Sarah,

You can either sand off the fingerprint or apply another layer of resin. The latter works easier for me.

For your heart, you can try to use some mixed epoxy resin as a glue to apply the missing corner. If you don’t have the missing corner, recreate the corner with modeling clay:

https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/mold-making-materials/products/alumilite-synthetic-modeling-clay?variant=965319249

Then make a mold of the heart. If your piece isn’t big, the molding putty would probably work best for this:

https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/mold-making-materials/products/alumilite-amazing-silicone-putty-kit?variant=965318805

Then cast the mold with resin to make your missing piece. Glue on to your heart and your pendant is fixed!

[Jason Messer]

My problem is a bit different. I masked off a resin surface so I could cut in some detailed lines and apply paint. The lines turned out great, but left a bunch of glue from the blue 3M masking tape on the resin. I can’t use to much solvent to remove it because it will eat my lines and lose the hard edge I wanted.

[Katherine Swift]

Have you tried something like ‘goo gone’?

[Megan Parks]

Hi there,

I’m a bit late in the game so I don’t know if I’ll get any responses. All that I’m reading has been great info!

The problem I’m having is I use clear packaging tape, because I prefer the clear finish I get, but it creates air pockets/ bubbles on the side the tape is laying on and sometimes rips off some of the flower with it. I use a blow torch to get all the bubbles, but since these are on the side the tape is on I don’t know how to avoid the air pockets & bubbles that are happening. Thoughts?

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Megan,

This video should give you some ideas:

https://youtu.be/ugQSgVIP2Uk

[Ryane]

I used packing tape for my open bezels, but when I went to take the bezel off…the resin stuck to the tape and was pulled out. How do I keep this from happening again?

[Katherine Swift]

Wow, that’s weird. I’ve never heard of that happening. I suggest trying a different brand of tape.

[Ryane]

I let it cure overnight one more time (I’d left them on the tape) and it didn’t stick! but now there’s adhesive on the back of my resin and my sandpaper is not taking it off. Help!

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Ryane, have you tried ‘Goo-Gone’? That’s what I like to use in situations like this.

[Katherine Swift]

This article explains how to make resin jewelry in open-backed bezels: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-use-resin-in-open-bezels/

[Author]

Posts