[Katherine Swift]

This question comes from Mike:

I do woodworking, mostly large bowls, cutting boards, serving trays, etc.
I’ve been commissioned to build 2 peristalsis from large tree base for a table. What is best method for epoxing a round log so that I don’t end up with drips and runs. Each pedistles is 18″-22″ diameter, 34″ tall, and both ends.
How do I avoid creating seams, overlay, if I do one side at a time?
How much product will I need

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Mike,

What a neat project! Here’s my thoughts on what I would do if I were to attempt a project like this:

1. What is the surface of the logs like? If there are lots of cracks and crevices, those are going to release a lot of bubbles once resin is applied. I would seal the wood first (you no doubt no more about that than I do) with a clear, acrylic based sealer to seal bubbles in.

2. How thick were you wanting the resin coating? That will help me with a resin recommendation and application amount.

3. Drips are going to be a problem. No way around it I’m afraid. Resin wants to pool and/or drip off a surface. If you apply the resin to the log while it’s horizontal, you will need to rotate it several times (like every 5 minutes) to keep the resin ‘running’ back and forth. This won’t completely eliminate the drips, but will make fewer of them. You could do the same thing if you keep the logs vertical, but you are still going to have to flip them 180 degrees every few minutes to keep the resin running back and forth. The nice thing about them being vertical is that the drips will be on the ends. I suspect you can sand the ends and no one would ever now because they will either be under the table surface or touch the floor.

Seams shouldn’t be noticeable provided you do a good job rotating the logs and use a doming resin, which self levels. If you apply a second coat, make sure you have a spreader or brush that you can use to spread out the the resin over the entire surface in case it doesn’t want to go that way on its own.

[Mike Zimmer]

Perfect. The logs will be debarked. Then sanded and cleaned. They will be at FOH (front of house) so appearance is
Important. I was trying to figure a way to do horizon but vertically makes more sense if I place the pedistals on a paint can and let gravity work for me.
The wood used has not been determined. A couple of choices are available: cedar, hickory, oak, pecan, or black walnut. All will have checking.
I hadn’t planned on using any other base, no oil or poly product, just the resin. Is this wrong?
Two applications should be ok.
Thanks, mike

[Katherine Swift]

Paint can should work provided the resin has room to drip off and hit the floor. Otherwise, if it drips off but pools on the paint can, you will have done a great job of gluing wooden pedestals to a paint can.

I don’t have enough wood experience to know whether or not the wood choice makes a difference. I do know that you will need to seal it because bubbles will come up later during curing. A clear, acrylic based product will do well.

What is your experience level with resin? That will help me guide you as to a choice.

[Therese Richardson]

Being that this thread is 2 years old, I am now just reading it lol I feel like I did not get to see the ending to the story! How did the pedestals turn out? What sealer was used before the resin? Very curious because I am about to resin a log and throw some nice undertone of pigment to it. I would love to see a picture of how things turned out! Catherine, you with your response have helped me figure out how I am going to achieve hopefully achieve what I want. So with that being said, I do have a question, mine is going to be horizontal, I was hoping I would be able to put something along the sides of the log without having to rotate it for the resin to cure. What would you suggest?

[Pallavi Desai]

Very nice blog on wood resin. It’s an amazing art.

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