[Kellie]

Hi there,
I’m new to the resin world and have been experimenting with Envirotex Jewelry Resin. I like how it’s clear and easy to use, however my pieces have been cureing for a week and while they have hardened, I can still indent it with my nail. The indentation goes away quickly, but what I really want is a stone hard finish that doesn’t indent at all.

Does anyone know if this type of resin hardness like stone, or is it just it’s nature to allow nails to make an indentation?

I’ve heard of Ice Resin and polyester resins, so I’m wondering if you can use one of those to coat the EnviroTex Jewelry Resin and if I can, will it make it hard?

I’m not sure if im doing something wrong with the Envirotex Jewelry Resin. I’ve followed instructions, warmed the resin and hardener, but am wondering if it wasn’t warm enough in my home.

I’d love any ideas, feedback, help, etc! Thanks in advance!

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Kellie,

Sometimes, this resin will be dentable, even when it’s fully cured. ICE resin or the Resin Obsession crystal doming resin I believe cures harder than the Envirotex jewelry resin. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-crystal-doming-resin While I don’t have any experience putting either of these over Envirotex jewelry resin, it has been my experience that putting ‘like over like’ (say epoxy over more epoxy) works fine.

I would not use polyester resin in this case. It is meant for molds and not shallow pours like it sounds like you are doing.

[Kellie]

Hi Katherine,

Thank you for info! So, would it not work to coat epoxy with poly then? I’ve poured the epoxy into a bezel – should it be done in thin layers? Will it dry hard? If not, can I use poly in bezels, is epoxy best here or is there another resin I should use? What about making ‘pearls’ in a mold – which type is better? I’m so new to this and am doing a lot of reseaech, but still confused! I want to make ‘pearls,’ bezels, and molded pieces.

Thank you so much!!!

[Katherine Swift]

Polyester resin is meant for molds and deep pours. I would not use it in bezels for two reasons:

1. It may not cure in the thin bezels.
2. The layer that is exposed to air during curing may remain tacky.

It will dry very hard (harder than an epoxy) but for bezels, an epoxy will do fine. Either of the epoxies I mentioned above will work for bezels.

When you say you want to make pearls, do you have a link you can share of what you want to create?

[Kellie]

Sorry, I didn’t see your reply before I posted the other question!

For ‘pearls’ I was thinking more of resin mixed with color or glitter – a ball but pearl sized.

So at least for bezels, stick with epoxy. Would Ice Resin give a harder cure? Or are self-curing dents acceptable in the resin jewelry world?

For any kind of mold, poly is the way to go then?

It’s weird that poly won’t cure hard in thin layers, I think that’s throwing me off.

Thanks again for all of your help!

[Kellie]

Hi Katherine,

I think I replied and didn’t hit reply, but if so please forgive this second post.

Thank you for the info! I was using a bezel – should I pour thin coats of epoxy? The one I’m using is doming. What is the best kind to use for bezels, ‘pearls,’ and molds?

Thanks again!

[Katherine Swift]

Hi Kellie,

It sounds like you are new to polyester resin? Check out this post: https://resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/polyester-casting-resin

Either the ICE resin or the Alumilite resin I mentioned above should work well in bezels. I think they will cure hard enough that you shouldn’t be able to dent it.

If you are looking for something for molds, I would recommend the Resin Obsession super clear resin. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin-6-oz-kit-jewelry-quality-resin It is an epoxy resin specifically designed for molds.

This post on our blog may help you as well. It details the resins we sell along with their pros and cons: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-casting

[Kellie]

Hi Katherine,

Yes, very new. Thank you SOOO much for all of the help. I’ll be sure to check out the links too.

Much appreciation!
Kellie

[Katherine Swift]

All resins need a certain amount of heat to induce curing. If the resin is poured in thin layers, there may not be enough heat to allow curing.

[Kellie Sandrik]

Hi Katherine,
Thanks again for the info and links. I’ve read through the links and found them helpful!

One last question – would you recommend one of the resins (Ice Resin or Alumilite) over the other for bezels and small beads?

Thanks!

[Katherine Swift]

I think either will do fine for your purpose. I believe the Alumilite resin has a longer pot (and cure) time. If you are inexperienced with resin, having the additional time to work the resin would work in your favor.

[Kellie Sandrik]

Excellent – thank you!!!

[Kellie Sandrik]

Are they the same when it comes to being sensation to humidity and temperatures and moisture?

[Katherine Swift]

What kind of environmental elements are you worried about?

[Kellie Sandrik]

Mainly humidity – I’m in the south. I also understand that some resins require 70-80 degrees, so I am curious about that as well.
Thanks!

[Katherine Swift]

Unless you are working with a polyurethane resin, humidity isn’t an issue. (We are located in Florida so I certainly understand your concern about the weather.)

A warm temperature will cause your resin to heat up faster, thus reducing the pot time. If it’s summertime, I would suggest turning your thermostat to a range of 75 to 78F and know that your resin may start to gel sooner than if it was cooler.

On a side note, when I cast polyester resin outside in 90+ F degree heat in Florida last summer (the stuff smells too bad for me to cast it inside), my pot time was reduced by half.

[Kellie Sandrik]

Thanks so much for all of your help, I truly appreciate it!

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