The Beginner’s Guide to Epoxy Countertops

So you’re a homeowner ready to try a DIY decorating project. And you’ve decided to punch up your countertops with epoxy resin. Cool. This is definitely a project you can do. You’ll get a high gloss countertop refresh and the satisfaction of knowing you created this epoxy project.

Why make epoxy resin countertops?

You can redecorate your surfaces for half the price of high-end granite. Plus, since you’re making these yourself, you don’t have to wait for someone to install them. It’s a great way to refresh a room.

Epoxy resin countertops are popular because of their durability. Epoxy can handle most cleaning materials and will maintain its shiny finish.

If you’re considering adding an epoxy coat to your home’s existing countertops, there are some things to know first.

Since epoxy countertops are poured in place, the design can be planned but not guaranteed. How resin colors move on a surface varies between countertops.

This should not be your first resin project. Mixing and pouring resin over a large surface requires paying attention to details.

Resin countertops don’t have the heat resistance to handle a hot dish from the stove or oven. You’ll scorch the surface if you do that.

If you don’t like the epoxy countertops after curing, you need to remove the entire countertop. It can be tedious to scrape and sand resin off a surface.

How do you choose the best epoxy countertop resin?

You first need to be sure that the resin type is a doming resin.

Why does that matter?

Doming resins mix thick, allowing them to be evenly level over a surface.

Resin Obsession has two formulas that work great for this:

Best Quality: Resin Obsession crystal doming resin

This epoxy kit comes in several sizes, so you can buy the amount you need with minimal wastage. This resin has no volatile organic compounds (VOCs). When cured, it’s highly durable and UV-resistant. This epoxy resin is easy to use due to its simple 1:1 volume mixing ratio. If adding color, stir the resin and color pigments thoroughly.

Once you’ve combined the resin and hardener, you’ll have 45 to 60 minutes of working time before it begins to harden. The surface will dry to the touch in 24 hours and be ready for light use within seven days. Keep heavy appliances off the surface for 30 days to avoid making permanent dents.

This resin also gives a beautiful, glossy finish to art canvases.

Best Value: Resin Obsession artwork resin

This tabletop epoxy kit is perfect for tables, kitchen countertops, bathroom vanities, and bartops. It works anytime you want a glossy surface. It doesn’t have as much UV protection as the crystal doming resin, so it’s a great choice for colored epoxy art projects. But, it’s only got half the working time as the crystal doming resin, so be ready to pour after mixing.

Let’s DIY epoxy countertops

Step 1: Plan your design

Collect pictures or paint chips to figure out what you want your countertop to look like. Check them in the room where you’re pouring your epoxy countertops several times a day. Sometimes, colors can look different based on the lighting.

Here are a couple of key points when making your epoxy countertops:

1. If you want a white base, you may want to pour two coats. It’s hard for white to pop in a single layer, even with a painted white base.

2. Colors can take over a white base, but a black base will take over the colors. As the resin heats up, things move and shift.

⭐️ Pro tip: If you aren’t sure about your color choices, make a test piece on a ceramic tile. You’ll also get to test your resin skills before going all in on your epoxy countertops.

Step 2: Gather your supplies

Get your countertop epoxy and resin colors.

💡 Pro tip: The Resin Obsession pigments are perfect for these projects. You can mix any of the basic ten colors together to make new colors. One of my favorite techniques is to use a single color and take the tint, tone, shade approach.

Step 3: Clean your current countertop surface thoroughly

Make sure you have a dust-free surface, but it needs to be free of oils. Resin won’t stick to a greasy surface. If you’re recoating a laminate countertop, sand the surface with coarse sandpaper. That removes the outer plastic layer, which resin doesn’t always stick to.

Wash and dry the surface before continuing.

Step 4: Check the entire surface for levelness

Resin will run to the lowest point. If your surface isn’t level, some areas will have a thick resin layer. Others won’t have enough coverage.

Step 5: Apply a primer

Resin sticks easily to primer. Plus, primer also covers up any discoloration or imperfections on the existing surface. It also helps your countertops to pop if you paint the base the same color as your epoxy resin base color.

Step 6: Protect cabinets, floors, and other surfaces

When you pour the epoxy, it will run over the edges of your countertop. Use painter’s tape to adhere a plastic drop cloth to the counter’s edge. The resin will run onto the plastic, but you’ll pull it away after the resin dries.

Step 7: Calculate how much epoxy you need

Measure the length and width of your base countertop. Then, input those numbers into this resin calculator. For the height, use 0.07 inches. Depending on what your countertops are made of, you’ll need this amount of epoxy for 2 to 3 layers.

💡 Pro tip: Mix a little more resin than the calculator says you need, especially if you’re mixing colors for accents. You want to be sure you’ve got plenty of resin to mix more color if needed.

[OPTIONAL] Step 8: Add a thin coat of epoxy

If you didn’t use the primer in the last step, and you’re working with a porous surface (like wood), you want to do this step to seal in bubbles. The first resin layer soaks into the wood and pushes bubbles out. You only want just enough resin to barely cover the surface.

Use a paintbrush or foam roller for this step because it spreads the resin over the surface quickly. And as much as you want to clean and reuse those tools, don’t. It’s easier to throw it away and get a new one. Trust me.

Use a heat gun to pop bubbles on the surface.

⚠️ IMPORTANT: You can also use a blow torch here, but be careful with fire!

Then, let this layer cure before adding the next layer. Otherwise, go to the next step if you aren’t adding a resin primer layer.

💡 Pro tip: If you have bubbles after the resin cures, sand that area before applying the next layer. If you end with 1000 grit or finer sandpaper, the sanding marks won’t appear in the next layer.

Step 9: Add (another) resin layer

Within a day, your first resin layer has cured enough that you can add another resin layer. This time you can pour enough to get the thickness you want. You don’t need to sand it first, but make sure it’s dust-free. It’s cured enough to clean it with a cloth and denatured alcohol.

Once it’s clean, mix more resin. Apply the base color, and spread it over the surface. Then, add your resin colors. Be sure to go over it again with a heat gun to bust bubbles.

Specific pouring techniques

1. When adding colors, go from one point to another without stopping. The colors will make veins you’d see in a piece of granite. The stripes don’t have to be straight. They just need to be continuous. You can use your stirring stick to draw the colors out too.

2. Pour colors in lines thinner than you think you want. You can always add more resin or use your heat gun to push the colors around.

3. If you think you need more color, apply heat first, then decide. Not only does the heat pop bubbles, but it also spreads colors.

Step 10: Remove the painter’s tape

Once the resin is almost too thick to move, remove the painter’s tape. Then, you will let some of the resin roll off the side. You can use your gloved hands to add extra epoxy to the countertop spaces that don’t have coverage.

Let the resin finish curing.

Step 11: Add a final layer of clear epoxy

Reapply painter’s tape and a plastic tarp to the counter edge.

Mix more epoxy, but this time, leave it clear. Pour it onto the surface and use your trowel to smooth it out. This last layer makes it extra glossy and gives depth to your design.

Don’t forget to go over it for bubbles.

Once the resin is partially cured, remove the tape. Then, let the epoxy fully dry.

💡 Pro tip: While the resin is curing, it can hold onto dust. Keep doors closed and people away. Your resin needs to stay undisturbed the entire time.

What temperature is ideal for making epoxy countertops?

Your work area should be in the low 70s F for at least seven days from when you pour the resin.

What’s the easiest way to mix large volumes of epoxy?

Use clean utility buckets and a drill mixer attachment.

How do you clean epoxy countertops?

Detergent and water are all it takes to get the countertops clean. Don’t use bleach or abrasive cleaners.

What happens if you scratch your epoxy countertops?

Try polishing the scratch away with a resin polishing kit.

Can I cover my laminate countertops with epoxy?

Yes! If you already have laminate countertops, you can easily add epoxy to them to create a custom design.

What surfaces work for countertops if I don’t have anything in place?

MDF is the best. It won’t bend with the weight of the epoxy like plywood can.

So what if you aren’t a resin pro but want to DIY epoxy countertops?

Then start with a fun project like making epoxy art. The concepts are similar, and you’ll get a feel for how epoxy flows before taking on a big project.

Want more help getting started?

It’s why I wrote Resin Fundamentals. It’s the ebook especially for beginners to give you the details you need to know when creating with epoxy. Buy it now, and you’ll get a download link for the PDF book in minutes.

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