When I started with resin, whoa, I made some mistakes. Like goopy, sticky, what I did do wrong kinda messes. So while it was fun getting good at making trash-can three-pointers, it wasn’t fun wasting epoxy resin and, even worse — my time. And if you’re getting ready to try your first resin project, I’ve got a few things for you to watch out for. That’s why I’m sharing the five most common mistakes beginners make with resin.
Beginner mistake #1: You don’t read and follow the directions.
I get it. You want to get right to the fun stuff. You’ve spent the afternoon down a YouTube rabbit hole, and by the time you’re up, you’re absolutely sure you can do this. But…
Stop and read the directions that come with your resin kit before you ever open the containers. For example
- Does your resin mix 1 to 1, 2 to 1, or something else?
- Should you mix by weight or by volume?
- How long does it take to cure?
Once you’ve read the directions, you need to follow them. Every resin has tailor-made instructions to ensure your resin cures. Because resin mixing problems are the number one reason for sticky resin.
Beginner mistake #2: Measuring willy-nilly
A capful of this. A spoonful of that. I mean, you’ve seen other people mix clear casting resin this way. So what’s the big deal?
Well, it isn’t a big deal if you don’t care about your resin curing every time.
You need to use measuring cups with lines to accurately measure your liquids.
And I know they can get expensive, but you can clean and reuse them.
Beginner mistake #3: Mixing quasi-completely
Of all the mistakes with resin, this is the one I see beginners make the most. You combine your parts and start mixing. After 30 seconds or so, you don’t see any more swirls, and everything looks uniform.
It’s mixed, right?
No, it isn’t. The resin along the side of the cup and mixing utensil isn’t mixed. You must scrape the sides and bottom of your cup and stirring stick at least three times while mixing.
⭐️ BONUS: This is how to mix resin in five easy steps.
Beginner mistake #4: Choosing the wrong resin for your project.
There is no one resin to rule them all. You need to do a little research before you buy resin.
Some, like epoxy resin for art, are meant for coating surfaces. Some, like deep pour epoxy, are meant for filling molds.
Use the wrong epoxy type for your project, and you might end up with something bendy or full of fish eyes.
You’ve got to know the difference.
So how do you avoid this?
The easiest way is to get a copy of our resin buying guide. Plus, there’s a {FREE} quiz on that page that makes it easy for you to know what resin you need to use.
Beginner mistake #5: Overestimating your abilities.
I love helping people with their projects. I share in their vision and excitement of creating something magnificent. That is until I get to the end of someone’s message when they reveal ‘and I’ve never done this before. Do you have any pointers?‘
Oh, dear. While some beginners are instant masters, for most, it takes time to develop skills.
What I’m trying to say here is to go easy. Start small. You can get this, but get good at the basics first. If you’re a resin beginner, here’s your beginner roadmap for resin success.
Wondering how you can avoid mistakes beginners make with resin?
I want to help. It’s why I wrote the ebook, Resin Fundamentals. For less than the cost of a resin kit, you’ll get the essential details you need to know to make something gorgeous with resin. Buy the PDF book now, and a download link will arrive in your email inbox in minutes.
Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2023 Resin Obsession, LLC
Bwahahaha! I Ambush laughing so hard because I was guilty of all of this. Started experimenting with resin back in 2007x nothing worked. My resin always came out sticky and in-cured. I got so fed up I put it down for 7 years. I tried again and it worked first try. I couldn’t believe it.
If you’re a newbie please take heed to everything in this post! Be patient, respect the ratios and for heaven sake read the directions…after all you are working with chemicals.
I find it very difficult to remove the tape from the bottom of canvas, the resin art ends up getting ruined.
Have you tried removing it when the resin is partially cured? It’s soft enough that you can pull the tape off but not disturb the rest of the resin.
@Nalita try heating the tape with a heat gun as u are pulling it off the canvas..it remelts the resin making it easy to remove the tape. It could also be the tape u are using. I use green Frog Tape or blue painters tape.Good luck!
Hey Katherine!
I’m a complete newbie. Haven’t poured even once yet. I’m spending hours and hours watching your tutorials, listening and learning.
But there’s a question I can’t find the answer to anywhere… Would REALLY appreciate your help with this..
I too am a crazy cat lady. My studio is my fur baby free zone but that’s in the basement with only a small window. Not great ventilation and steps I have to go up on case the resin starts burning up like you showed in your video and warned about.
So what’s my question? If I work elsewhere, is it wise to move the molds right after pouring them? I could work in another post of the basement where we have a huge egress window but can’t leave the molds there for 24 hours.
I assume moving the mold is a bad idea bcs the resin can shift, bubble, etc…
What’s the solution here?? 😊
I also can’t find dust covers anywhere…
Thanks so much in advance!
Rachel
Hi Rachel, I’m afraid I don’t have any good ideas here. You are right in that you don’t want to move the molds very far after pouring. I wish I had an easy answer for you.
I was a waiter years ago so I was pretty confident in being able to move the molds without issue but I didn’t go far. I left them in a small laundry room and turned on the exhaust fan. Then since I live in Arizona I poured outside and left the molds with a plastic tub over them to keep dust off but had the mouth of the tub hanging over the edge of the table so vapor could escape. I’m sure some dust got in that way but the 100+ heat cured much faster that way.
Thank you so much for your reply! I was actually thinking of doing it outside indeed. The only thing is it means I have to bring up all my supplies and everything I need but I guess I could do that. And yes I was also thinking of covering everything with a plastic bin. I hadn’t thought of leaving it a little bit open but I guess you’re right, fumes do to come out. Although from the videos I’ve seen of people doing the resin they seem to just cover it and not leave any opening…
You could poke a few hole near the top of the tub (right side up) on the sides, and then poke some holes in the bottom so when you flip it over you will have some airflow.
I have found old cardboard boxes make nice dust covers if your short. Some can even bear the weight of a cat (but tape the sides down first!) 😁
You can use picnic food covers depending on the size of the project.
This is all really new to me. But the problem with dust and pet hair could perhaps be managed by small picnic tents. They are net set up in a frame to be placed over serving dishes. Kind of like an inverted U.
After finishing emptying your piece, cover it with something that will protect it from dust, etc. And let it completely cure!
Hi, I tend to have a designated tray that I use when pouring my moulds. That way if I need to move them about it stays pretty still. The rest is on how stable you can keep it while moving. I’ve had no problems so far touch wood
You may wish to use a heat gun over the tape. also pull up in a straight line.
I have a question- can you paint over dried resin with acrylic paint without doing another layer of resin over the acrylic? Thanks!
Hi Claire, yes you can.
Hey hi, just came across ur comments, iv started resin too, n I find it sticky after cured, please can u help me with regards to this.
Hi Delaila, I’m sorry you are having problems with sticky resin. This article will help: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/why-is-my-resin-sticky/
Hi, i have a resin kit but chinese instructions. Can anyone help
I am having the same exact problem, I bought a kit on wish for like 35$ and the directions are in Chinese. I tried to google translate them and I do not understand, ALSO the bottles are marked in Chinese, and I can’t understand what is going on. Does anyone know of any youtube videos for this exact situation?
You can use Google lens over the instructions and choose the translate option 👍
I started playing with resin this year, unfortunately my mistake was thinking it was going to be easy LOL. Found out NO ITS NOT!
Although I have found that some of my mistakes made the coolest looking pieces, I am enjoying the fact that I am getting better and better at it.
One time I mixed them up and after. I pour on the second mold the resin started to heat up in the mixing container, and then it started to cure, it was so weird because the two things I was doing came up great, so I don’t really know what happened 🤷🏻♀️
I’m terrified that I’m overly confident 😂. I plan on it hearing some to glass with seashells so that it’s what it looks like wet Sandy beachy look. I bought plenty of resin enough for many disasters 😂.
My resins have all been curing nicely… Except 1. It’s very sticky and just won’t cure. Can I salvage the piece?.. perhaps try and envelope it in a freshly poured resin and hope the new resin surounding cures hard?? Any advise?
Hi Miley, I’m sorry this happened to you. This article explains how to fix it: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/how-to-fix-sticky-resin/
I just finished with making a resin piece, and it came out of the mold looking great, except… I have these lines that can be felt and seen when I run my fingers across it. I also have a small indention or what looks like the resin pulled away form the mold. My question is, can I sand the whole piece down making it smoother and then reapply resin to the whole piece? Will this smooth out the piece, also what do you
recommend for shining and buffing my resin pieces?.
Many Thanks.
Okay so I just tried using epoxy resin color in a mold and the color went right through the resin and when I took the mold out the bottom was all sticky and the color had somehow not stayed in the resin and just turned to liquid at the bottom. I don’t know if this makes any sense at all explaining it but I hope so
Hi Nicola, I’m sorry this happened to you. Did you mix the color with the resin, or did you drop it in the resin after it was in the mold?
I dropped it in the mold. I thought I had seen it done before however I must have done something wrong
You can only — i believe— use alcohol inks in that manner. the typical resin tint stays separate and only will set properly if you blend it in before pouring.
I used alchohol inks on mine and it still did this. Is there a solution to it?
I am guilty of everything in this post. LOL. I just started using resin about a month or so ago. I am usually a polymer clay and wire crafter but decided to expand on my crafting skills. You are never so good as to not make mistakes if you don’t slow down and follow the directions. My biggest mistake was not having a level surface to work on. I would pour my resin and it would just overflow towards the lower end of my workspace. I purchased a small level to level up a small plastic dollar store cutting board and it works out just great!! I made so many messes, I decided I better start getting more instructions on its usage. Now I am proud to say I have gotten pretty good at this, not perfect, but much much better. Thanks for the posting. Excited to see what you have next for us newbies and old heads. LOL.
Stay at it! That’s the best way to learn resin.
Hi Sarah, resin polish will work for minor surface blemishes. This is the one I recommend: https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/novus-resin-polishing-kit As for knowing if your molds will produce a shiny finish, this article explains more: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/why-is-my-resin-cloudy/
How would you recommend that I resin a piece of Yupo paper? Must I glue it to wood or can it be resumed flat? Thank you
I’m not familiar with Yupo paper. Can you tell me more?
t’s a nice medium for acrylic painters to use and I’ve confirmed that it will work with resin. I just don’t know how to put it on something flat without the resin adhering to the table Any tips for resining paper products? What would the set-up look like?
It looks look Yupo paper will work. This tutorial should help you: https://resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/resin-paper-bracelet-tutorial
Hi, I’ve just made a piece of resin art on canvas. I’ve mixed up different colors using mainly mica powder. But I found the resin is too transparent. The colours and definition isn’t there! I did a dirty pour and the colours just weren’t vibrant enough, you could still see the background. Did I not use enough powder or maybe just poor quality powder? As I also used some copper acrylic paint with one and that stayed just fine! Many thanks
Hi Ashley, what you experienced with powder has been my experience as well. Have you thought about liquid colors? They mix more solid opaque. We have several in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/liquid-colorants/opaque
Also, I know that this is a total newbie question but how do you add a second coat? Do you just pour it or do you have to sand it? Thank you for your time!
No need to sand unless you have a blemish you are trying to repair. A second coat will do fine.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate your help!
Can I fill a resin piece. I used ArtResin. I poured it on a dried acrylic painting on canvas. It dried with a couple spots that look like no Resin was used in those spots. It was covered when wet.
I would suggest recoating the entire piece with another layer of resin.
My first attempts had some of the same issues. (I was trying to coat acrylic paintings).
My advise includes a few other notes that maybe I should have already known, but did not know.
1. Make sure the area is as clean as you can get it.
2. Make sure your work surface is level or you will have loops of resin where it tried to flow.
3. Have a place to pour. I poured outside, and I have had bugs get in the resin (trying to keep odor down). Don’t know how I’ll pour in the winter unless I buy a different type of resin.
I’ve never used resin before. I have a jack skellington mold I want to use. I want to make them into keychains. What kind of resin should I use? Can I add color or glitter to it? Thanks!!
Hi, we have a few articles here that should help you get started: https://resinobsession.com/tag/beginner/
Can you tell me why my mixed resin and mica powders are pooling to the center of my mold? This didn’t use to happen
Hi Robin, I’m sorry this is happening to you. Can you post what’s going on with some more specifics as a troubleshooting forum post here: https://resinobsession.com/forums/forum/resin-troubleshooting/. That will give us more room to go back and forth about what’s going on so we can get this figured out!
I am trying to make a resin glode with a real flower in the center. I have dried the flower and am using a mold from a clay mold kit. Any tips aside from practice on a non important flower? Thank you!
Make sure your flower is dry first. We have a few articles on how to do that here: https://resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
Can I insert a smaller, finished resin piece inside of another mold and then process?
Yes Cheryl, you can do that.
can i use it on natural flowers and leaves without drying?
No, unfortunately flowers need to be dried to be used in resin, otherwise they will rot. We have several articles on how to do that here: https://resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
Please don’t laugh..I painted a 36x36inch table top (wood) -and it was generally admired. I decided to varnish it. Then apply resin. I used the whole two bottles mixed up and painted it on starting with a puddle in the middle and stretching it out. So far so good. The colours popped and I was looking forward to eating off the table or removing legs and hanging it.
Then as it dried I noticed a sticky patch that hasn’t dried. I’ve tried removing this with a blade and I covered that part whilst I sanded (finely) the rest.
Question: should I pour just into the dent first then let it dry and pour over all? Or one coat letting it fill in the gap?
So sorry I started it – might have ruined my best picture yet. Any advice would be helpful! Thank you.
Hi Lolly, I’m sorry this happened to you. This article explains what you can do next: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/how-to-fix-sticky-resin/
Thank you for the signpost! I’m confident I can get my picture back – will try something smaller next time!
I just tried art resin on my fabric art. It looks amazing except that there are tons of tiny bubbles everywhere. Is this due to the fabric and stitching and therefore uneven surface?
It sounds like trapped air in the fabric came to the surface after you poured the resin. Did you use a fabric sealer on it first?
I started many years ago as a Painter, All Mediums, On canvas. Most of my work is ABSTRACT. I never considered my self as a Artist, for 20 years I have given my pieces away to anyone that came to my house and said WOW I Love that PIECE! Anyway, I have no been commissioned and sell alot of pieces. The owner at the local art store saw my stuff and told me that I should take it off the strecher and glue it to wood and put resin on them. my trouble is that I cannot seem to get them glued to the MDF board flat enough to get a nice finish. I am currently using ART RESIN and was wondering if there is a lighter weight resin that i could use while my pieces are still on the stretched canvas?
Why not leave it on the stretcher? Use magazines, pizza boxes, etc. underneath the canvas to keep it from sagging when you pour the resin.
Where do I purchase plastic measuring pieces that are marked for such use??
We have a couple different sizes of marked measuring cups in our store: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/Supplies
Be careful where you purchase them! I bought a whole bunch for what I thought was a deal on eBay. I now have a metric crap ton of plastic measuring containers with next to impossible to read, dubious markings. I was a nurse for 25 years and we had sleeves of these beautiful medicine cups that we just used once and tossed. Wish I had asked my manager if I could have bought a case. When will I learn you get what you pay for???
I poured a resin river in my board. As it dried the resin shrank away from the sides and fell out. What can I do to fix this please.
Hi Maureen, it sounds like you had a lot of shrinkage. You will need to repour.
Hope you can save the part that fell out and trace its shape onto a new piece of wood with the depth being exactly measured that you need to place it into the new ready made wood! You would have to figure out what type of glue you would need to use to secure it. If the resin shape is still intact then wouldn’t that work?
Yes, I would expect that to work!
I use a lot of resin in my work. I’m presently making a large oak dining table and running a river of aqua blue polyester transparent resin. The mistakes I made when I started using large amounts of resin was:
not having the patience to stage it (pouring it all on at once) and this resulted in the resin cracking.
2: not having an absolutely flat surface
3: stirring the resin too vigorously and subsequently creating an unnecessary number of air bubbles which meant spending
4: Doing this in a workshop that wasn’t dust free!
5: Not tightly clamping down a hollow item I was pouring the resin into. This allows the resin to creep underneath said item.
I have though, got a lovely chunk of wood with a natural opaque cracked resin running through it that looks like amber running through a tree. It was a mistake but sometimes mistakes can turn out for the better!
Maria,
There’s no such thing as mistakes, just happy little accidents!
You’re my favorite person on the internet right now!
Hi. Wondering if you can clean up the resin from a glass measuring cup the same as you did from the plastic one. Thanks.
Yes, while the resin is wet.
I want to glue (spray) lace to a canvas and resin over it. I have painted the canvas with acrylic paint. Can I use spray glue to hold the lace in place without causing problems while pouring the resin?
I don’t know. I haven’t used spray glue. I worry that it might yellow with the resin.
Hi there, I would use resin as the glue to put your lace down with, let it set up for a little while then do your pour. 🙂
What is the best tape to use for a clean edge while using resin? Also – when is the best time to pull the tape? Thank you!
I like to use quality blue painters tape. Pull it once the resin has mostly cured. (not completely cured, but formed)
hi there. What is the cause of the resin to turn a yellowish color?
Thanks. 😀
Hi Vicki, I’m afraid all resins are going to yellow with time. This article explains more: https://resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/clear-resin-turning-yellow-reasons-for-yellow-resin/
How do you use resin to mount a photo on a piece of wood?
It sounds like you are trying to use resin as an adhesive? If so, I wouldn’t use it like that in this case. It will be hard to control. A spray adhesive would work better to apply the photo to the wood. Once you have it adhered, however, you can resin over the top. We have an article on how to do that here: https://resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-resin-a-photo
HELP!!! I’ve just started using resin on acrylic pours. I’ve got the top of the canvas to come out perfectly, but I can’t get the resin to smoothly cover the sides of the canvas. It’s always ridges or sets in drips even after I’ve sat with it for an hour reapplying it with gloves on. How do I get the sides to be as smooth as the top of the canvas?
What kind/brand of resin are you using?
Once you have covered your canvas with resin get your heat gun or blow dryer whatever you use and simply aim it towards the edges. The resin will loosen as it warms making it thinner. Use a popsicle stick to guide the resin over the edge. It will be thin so it will simply drip over and cover the edges. Use the flat side of the popsicle stick to smear it evenly. And if you need to, pour more resin just at the edge to give it more motivation to pour down over the edges. The heat gun is really essential to smoothing out the edges and encouraging it to move over the edge . Good luck to you, because honestly its not that complicated.
Art Resin
Since gravity is working against you (in terms of the side), if your side perfectly flat, the resin won’t want to stay flat either. Without seeing your work, it sounds like you need to turn the painting up and cover one edge at a time with resin. Allow to partially cure before moving to the next side.
Hi!
What is the easiest thing to make with resin since I’m a beginner? Maybe a paperweight?
Thanks
Hi Karen, this article will give you some ideas: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-jewelry-making-what-every-beginner-needs-to-know
For the wall art I would like to ask about how to measure the mixed resin for my project? Like how much does a one cup of mixed resin cover?
Is there an easy way to measure?
Thanks
This article will help you with the math: https://resinobsession.com/resin-art/how-to-apply-a-glossy-resin-layer-to-a-painting/
If I want to do those lightbulb flower projects, where you suspend the flowers in a clear fluid in a lightbulb, would I use epoxy resin? I’m a beginner at this, I normally work with wood so Im a bit out of my comfort zone.
Yes, epoxy is what I would use.
A burning question: I still have my mothers hair queue and I want to keep it save. She passed away when I was 11 years old and the hair is almost 50 years old now and it is still beautiful. I think about catching it in resin, but I’m afraid to damage it. I mean, it’s unique and when I spoil it, it’s lost for ever. Can you please tell me what’s the best way to do it ?
Hi Wanda, what a beautiful keepsake! While not the same topic, this article should give you some ideas: https://resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-make-pet-hair-beads/
I poured my resin without difficulty. But then it cracked down the middle. What went wrong?
Hi Sheri, it sounds like your resin got too hot. What kind/brand did you use?
What’s a good resin to re create plastic model parts like cockpit of a xwing? Or other plastic models? I’m a newbie 🙂
Cheers
Paul
You will need to use a casting resin. We have several in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/casting
Question please….I’m just beginning resin projects but can seem to get any of the clear ones to come out bubble free, what can I do to make my jewelry peices without a whole bunch of bubbles. I take a lighter to it, I use royal palm resin, I pour slowely, I wait after I mix to let the resin set.
This video on our youtube channel should help: https://youtu.be/ugQSgVIP2Uk
Hello,
I’m currently in the works of coming up with an idea for my wife for Christmas. What I want to do is create a board that will be used for Chinese Checkers. We recently obtained a few boxfuls of cedar slabs that came off her late Emaw’s land and I wanted to try to incorporate the cedar wood into the Chinese Checkers board.
My first question is, how can I clean up the cedar (still has moss and bark attached) and seal it prior to pouring resin?
My second question is, what kind of resin should I use for this? It will be an indoor piece, obviously. I was thinking the Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast Epoxy since I don’t want it to scratch considering it’ll be a board game and will be used often.
Also, any suggestions you may have for me will be taken into consideration! I really want to surprise my wife with this for Christmas and would like to do it right the first time around.
Hi Christian, I’m not sure how to get the moss off the wood, but your resin choice sounds great. Since it sounds like you are new to resin, these articles should be helpful to you:
https://resinobsession.com/tag/beginner/
Hey all,
Thank you for the article and comments. I just got my first 32oz resin kit and plan to make a Christmas present for my girlfriend. I want to soak in as much information as possible before my first go at it and this article was helpful. Slow and steady seems to be the approach here.
That’s a great approach Andrew!
I used the last one you showed to make molds will it work. And I can’t seem to get it to dome in my bevel over glitter. Should I secure the glitter down first. I saw it in a dyi video, and I asked what they put down before the glitter and their response was just because which was not helpful at all, so I ended up ruening 2 pendants
I’m not sure I understand your question. What ‘last one’ are you referring to?
What is a nice and easy permanent clearest finishing resin I can use to coat metal back clip on earrings ? I make earrings and this will be my finishing touch to coat my signature on the backs and on my small logo stamped tags.
Any clear doming resin will work for this. We have several in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/doming
Iam a beginner resin user who is just reading as much info as possible before I buy any, My end product I’d like to make a cutting board with a piece of timber in the middle. This is of course after a lot of practice!
What would be the best food safe resin to use? Etc.
I’d like to have a go a jewellery making so I’ll keep watching and reading your info ☺️
I just started seaglass on some old windows I have. the first and only one I’ve done so far is a 6 paned window. my first two panes cured perfectly. unfortunately the other 4 are a little tacky. I guess thats part of a newbie error. Is there a fix for that? Before I do my next project I want to make sure I don’t repeat my mistakes. I watched your tutorial on mixing and think that is where my problem occurred.
Hi Suzanne, I’m sorry to hear you have sticky resin. I’ve been there! If you resin is simply sticky (and not gooey), you can recoat with another layer of resin and be fine.
Just tried my first resin jewelry pieces tonight. Will see how they turned out. I did read directions and all. I was more confident about mixing and pouring and stuff. I make homemade jewelry, and I get compliments all the time on my work. Been in a slump with creativity. Kidney failure stage 3, affects my moods and how I feel physically often. Then found someone on youtube using triplethick stuff and ideas with dominoes and really cool stuff! She even had a facebook page joined that and then met resin makers! But I’m still struggling a bit with creativity. I think I’m not trusting my ideas. Tonight I made seashell knickknack sort of things, and tried my hand at the resin pieces with the itty bitty shells and starfish. Looked interesting, still have to do more decorating the shells. And see how the resin pieces turn out. I did try my hand at polymer caning………that ended disasterously, though I did make beads out the the screw ups. So not all was lost. Then I found you, read your posts just to see what I may have screwed up resining. btw, I have these measured shot glasses. They have metric, US measure tsp, Tbsp, etc, ml, and oz. I was concerned how it would clean up, and wanted to make sure I didn’t wash it down the sink. So I wiped it out with a paper towel real well and washed it up with dish soap(Gain brand) and it cleaned up real nice. So I commandeered that shot glass for my resin stuff. I did look up on amazon for the plastic mixing stuff. But if you wanted medical grade, I’m sure you could find it there too. If you wanted to make sure the measuring accuracy. I started with 5ml/5ml and made 3 pendants.
Hi. I also am new at resin. My pieces are turning out good except for one thing. If I use glitter it all migrates to the center of the piece. Why is that? Thank you.
It sounds like it’s too heavy. I like the Stampendous microglitter: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/products/stampendous-micro-glitter
I received a resin coated small box.
During a move the resin on the top of
the box cracked in two places. Is it
possible for me to repair the cracks
by adding another layer of resin? I
don’t want to lose my box.
Yes, you can do resin to do that, but you will likely see the crack after repair.
Hello, I use resin to pour into milk Ds for keychains. However I went to screw an eyelet ring in to make the keychain, and the resin cracked.
(I used a small drill bit and manually created a small hole first. And I added a tiny bit of E6000 glue before screwing in the eyelet )
*pour into molds
Try using an even smaller drill bit to start.
I have a wooden table that was thrown together with reclaimed pallet boards – it is uneven and has large cracks – I want to pour resin to have a nice, smooth, even top. I have used duct tape to create a fence around the edge and also used duct tape to seal the cracks on the underside – will the tape be sufficient to act as a fence? How tight do the taped seals in the bottom need to be?
Thanks
Hi Brian, duct tape will work as a fence to keep the resin in. Try to seal it as best as you can and pay attention to your seams when you first pour. You will likely have a few ‘drip throughs’ but if you have done a good job sealing, it shouldn’t be anything major.
I want to cast some coasters that have are glass shards glued with E6000 glue onto a small (3 inch) clear glass circle. I am using alumilite resin and have some casting molds shipping to me. Can I just lay the glass (with glued on shards facing up) and pour a layer of resin over the top? I hope to fill the resin to the top of the shards. I am a stained glass artist, never having used resin. Thanks!
Yes, you can do that.
Hi, I am new to resin art. I’m resining wood cheese boards however I don’t like the look of seeing the wood through my coloured resin. So I’ve been priming the area that is to be resined with white art acrylic paint then once dry applying the resin. My question is, will the paint & resin lift when cheese board is washed? I’m masking the area so the resin is sitting directly on top of the paint and the resin is not going over the edge of the paint.
Instead of white acrylic paint, use a white primer.
I am wanting to start resin coffee and dining tables I have taken a lot from what you have all said some great advise, personally I am wanting to know where in the UK is best to buy resin and the tools associated with it and which tools I will need to start out
Wonderful article. I’m new to this so my question may be a little basic. I’m wanting to do a 3d pour. What I mean is I have an object that I don’t want to submerge but want it to have the coating and shine. How do I keep the resin from running off the curves or would I be better off finding a different coating
Resin is going to want to drip, so it’s going to run off the curves. If you can keep your item ‘moving’ that will help. You can see what I’m talking about in this article about applying resin to a tumbler:
https://resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-glitter-and-resin-a-tumbler/
Hi. My resin dried floral mold came out cloudy on the dome side, but clear on the opening side. What did I do wrong?
Hi Nathalie, I’m sorry to hear your casting didn’t turn out as expected. This video on our youtube channel explains more: https://youtu.be/9wQIp4_mIRM
Our temperatures here get to 120F outside with less than 20% humidity in the summertime. Would this be good for the curing, or bad?
Unfortunately, that temperature is too warm for resin. Resin prefers temperatures in the low 70’s F for curing.
Rats! I was afraid of that.
Heat gun or blow torch to use with resin painting?
I’ve used resin for other crafts but not painting. After reading online, I decided to go for the blow torch but actually it seems to burn too easily!
Thanks so much for all the info!
Please can i use a spatula to apply my resin on my painted wall?
Yes, but the resin is going to pool. It doesn’t like to stay evenly on a vertical surface.
Hello, I’ve been experimenting with resin jewelry for months now. I made a few open pendants necklaces last week, i’ve done that a few times before. It cured properly and i mixed kinda big amount and it was measured precisely. After wearing it on my skin for 2 days, it created “maps” on the surface. It’s still clear, but it doesn’t look as good cause it’s not as smooth when you look at it from closer view and under sunlight. I don’t understand that, because this happened to me only once and it was surely because I didn’t mix it well and that really didn’t happen this time. Is it normal? I wear on of my other necklaces and it has not happened to it. I was about to sell my items but I don’t know if there isn’t something wrong about it. It’s still pretty but not perfect. Can i prevent it by polishing the items? Or doest that just happen because it reacts with skin oils and sweat? I used Gedeo crystal epoxy resin.
I haven’t used that brand, but some epoxies can get soft with body heat.
For jewelry try Ice Resin.
I want to put resin on top of a table made of a construction wire spool that has a 48″diameter. The table will be outdoors for the summer. Please tell me what resin you think will fit the bill and if I am going to have a problem doing this. I haven’t used resin in the past, but plan on covering for fabric art with it as well.
Hi Susan, I don’t know that I would use resin on a project like this. Even with UV protectants, it’s going to yellow staying outdoors.
Good afternoon,
I want to start working with resin and do cabochons with flowers, dried plants particularly. I haven’t started yet, trying to read all suggestions before I proceed.
Somewhere I read that we can use a life flowers in resin if they are preserved first (sprayed with resin or even with hair spray. I saw cabochons with daisy flowers white looking like they just been taking from the garden. How it was done? Can you please share? Thank you very much.
You can use flowers in resin, but you need to dry and seal them first. We have a few articles on how to do that here: https://resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
I’ve never used an epoxy resin. I did a wood burning on a basswood round and would like to apply an epoxy topcoat, but I’m worried about applying it to the bare wood. Any suggestions?
As long as your wood is clean (no wax or oils), I would expect the resin to adhere without any problems.
I’m making a cedar live edge table for my husband. I plan to carve out a few areas on the top surface to apply spots of colored epoxy. On my test piece I found that any drips stained the wood. How do I remove the stains? This is my first time working with epoxy.
Unfortunately, there isn’t a way to remove the stain.
I’m trying to resin a round rock. What should I use? But even a bigger question is how do I get both sides even without some sort of mark on them. Obviously the rock will have to be turned over to get both sides. I don’t want any drip drops happening either. I think the back should be first? I’m thinking about setting up a system with 4 small dowels to support the rock off the surface so it would dry better. But that would still leave marks. How do you dry the bottom otherwise?
Hi Cheryl, while not exactly what you are doing, this article should give you some ideas. https://resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-glitter-and-resin-a-tumbler/ . The same resin used in that article will work for what you want to do.
Hi, I’ve been working with resin over acrylic pours for a few months now. My biggest problem is dust. I’ve created a “dust free” enclosure for the resin to cure but 99% of the time end up with one or two dust specs. Is this normal? I have people wanting to buy my pieces but I feel like if there’s dust I can’t sell them. A few pieces I’ve sanded and gone over with resin again and some are good and some still get a dusty spec. Any advice or thoughts would be great as I’m feeling frustrated. Thank you.
Hi Samantha, this sounds so frustrating! Have you found a dome to place over your paintings? A plastic tub, kiddie pool or something in between is a great cover to have over your paintings while they cure.
Hi ,
I painting modern painting on canvas with oil. I want to give it shiny look with resin. Can you please guide me what resin brand you will recommend on canvas and any articles to read before hand to do it right ? Does the oil paint needs to be completely dry before I apply resin coat ?. Thank you so much 😊
Hi Sunny, welcome to the world of resin! Your oil paints need to be completely dry before you cover your painting. That’s at least 30 days, and perhaps more. As for the brand, any of the doming resins in our store will work for what you want to do. You can find them here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/doming . This video on our youtube channel will help you get started: https://youtu.be/fUS7PB1QFmk
I dint know how much amount of resin to be taken for a particular piece of work. I ended with having shortage of resin for my art..
Hi Latha, that happens a lot, especially for beginners. There is a resin calculator on this page that will do that math for you on how much resin you need for your project: https://resinobsession.com/resin-calculator/
How do you add sea shells to the bottom of an acrylic paint.
HOWDo you add seashells to an acrylic painting?
I want to make fake spills, Coffee, wine etc. to add to my line of products that I sell on my website. I make food props for movies, plays etc. Thanks for your help.
Hi Reed, you have a lot going on here! I want to help you with your project, and I think this situation is best suited for a one-on-one consulting call where you and I talk back and forth about what’s going on. A 15-minute consultation call is $20. I do them by video so I can have a chance to see what you are working on. If you are interested, please send a message through the ‘contact us’ page and I can get this going for you.
Hi, I have been using a two part ultra clear epoxy resin in silicone moulds which has been going brilliantly. However, I wanted to make some tea light holders in glass and the resin has warped the glass and turned slightly yellow. Not sure what’s going on and there isn’t anything on the labels saying it can’t be used with glass. Any suggestions?
Unfortunately, resin isn’t made to take the heat from a candle.
Can you tell me if I have to sand down a previously finished table before applying epoxy ?
Hi Janet, if the surface is still smooth and doesn’t have very deep divots, then sanding before applying another coat is unnecessary.
Hi, I am new to resin art. I read and follow the directions that followed resin. I used a lighter to blow up the bubbles. When the resin had dried, it still had a lot of very small bubbles. What do wrong?
Hi Helen, there are multiple reasons for bubbles in resin. This article will help: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-bubbles/
I’ve just started using ·Art Resin· and can’t seem to get the resin clear. I have heat to pop the bubbles but still cures cloudy.
Hi Jennifer, I’m sorry to hear this is happening to you. This article will give you some ideas on why that can be happening: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/cloudy-resin-why-is-my-resin-cloudy-reasons-for-cloudy-resin/
I am beginner.
i came into resin thinking that it would feel like glass NOT PLASTIC!
i am trying to find a product to add to resin while mixing or to add after it has finish casting to make it feel like glass.
what product will help me do that?
Hi Autumn, it sounds like you need to use a harder curing resin. The Resin Obsession super clear resin does quite well for projects you need for a hard finish. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession
Hi! I’m new & honestly a little intimidated, esp. with resin working times. Id like to try and create faux stain glass on glass. Which resin product would you suggest? Also any tips or “watch out for’s” would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Hi Cynthia, for what you want to do, one of our doming resins will work great. You can find them in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/doming
Hi, I’m new to resin, and wondered if it would be possible to coat a diamond painting with resin. I’m hoping it would end up glassy and firm, but with the sparkle of the painting showing through. Any advice/tips/recommendations?
Hi Kirsty, I’m afraid the sparkle wouldn’t show through the resin very well. It will make your diamond painting look flat.
Hello,
I would like to use the resin to apply a coat or rwo to a box I recovered with paper, sealed with mod podge and acrylic. I would like the resin/hardener to give it a cleaner and more permanent seal and hopefully look nicer in general.
Is that possible with resin since it is a thin coating and not a mold?
Hi Erin, yes, resin will work for a project like this.
My dad lost a tree to a storm and I have a slice of trunk that is hollow. It would make a great tray or cutting board. What is best to use on one side of the slice as a mold when I pour the resin?
Hi Lisa, use the material that cutting boards are made from.
I’m terrified to use resin but I want to make a globe type paperweight with a dried flower in it. The flower is from valentines so it is very dry. I’ve watched a ton of videos and plan to do it in layers (decreasing drops of catalyst per the chart). My biggest fear is it messing up the flower. Its a whole, dried red rose, do I need to seal it first? All the sealing videos I’ve found deal with pressed flowers. I’ve seen alot of blogs on them messing up flowers, changing colors. I’ll still practice before I use the one I want to but any advice still would be amazing. I’m the type that will practice, read hours, watch hours of videos and still be so nervous because with the one flower…I only have one shot at it.
Hi Michelle, we have several articles on drying and sealing flowers for resin here: https://resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
It also sounds like you are describing using polyester resin for your project which is not one I recommend for beginners. Instead, the Resin Obsession deep pour resin will work for a project like this. You can pour layers up to two inches thick at once and you don’t have to worry about using drops of catalyst. You can find it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
I am trying to make a small table top about 24 inches in diameter across. I am wondering if I can use a plastic kids flying saucer as a mold? It is the right size and depth. If so what do I need to do to prepare it. If not any other suggestions. Thanks
Hi Deb, I’m afraid I haven’t tried a frisbee for a resin mold. I don’t know whether or not it will work.
I loved your video!! Very informative and interesting! It’s so wonderful to FINALLY watch a video of someone that KNOWS what they’re talking about! Lol!
Two years ago, my sister passed away from that horrible flu! In remembrance of my sister, I wanted to do something special for my niece so I did an acrylic painting with 2 different metallic paints, (dark blue & coral) and going across the center of the painting is the “heartbeat line” ending with a ♡ done in gold leafing. I’ve wanted to seal it for about a year now but I’ve been hesitant because I’ve never worked with resin. I’ve had to redo the gold leaf a couple of times because of tarnishing. My question is do you know if gold leaf will continue to tarnish after sealing it? Also in ur video u mentioned that over time all resins will eventually turn yellow. Are we talking month’s or years till yellowing occurs? How does someone fix that? Is there another way to seal a painting to get a high gloss finish that WON’T turn yellow?
Can you guide me on what to do?
Hi Ren, I’m sorry to hear about your sister. How wonderful that you are creating a painting in her memory.
The gold leaf will not tarnish once you cover it with resin. However, all resins will yellow over time. Resins with UV protectants help prolong the time before yellowing occurs. However, things such as mixing off ratio (even though it still cures), putting over an improperly cured lacquer, excessive heat, and/or constant exposure to sunlight can speed up yellowing. How long epoxy resin will last in its clear state is difficult to predict.
I have Castin Craft Mold Release and when I spray on a mold, it dries with tiny white circles. I wash the mold for fear of the white circles showing on the resin when released. So I have the product and am afraid to use it. I’ve searched for videos on how to apply but nothing exists. Can you help?
Hi Jacquie, apply it in a fine mist — like perfume. It sounds like you are applying too thick of a coat. (You don’t need to use it like cooking spray.)
Hi,
I have used fine glitter in my resin without an issue but I am having difficulty setting larger pieces of statement glitter. It seems to do “back flips” in the resin. Any tips?
I want to make an aquarium scene. I have made a few seahorses out of resin and plan to use a fake aquarium plant and some sand and shells. I have two questions. Can I pain on the resin seahorses with acrylic paint and then submerge the seahorse in the resin casting of the aquarium scene or will the paint dissolve or come loose? Can I cast the “aquarium permanently into a glass vase or will the epoxy expand and break the glass (or come loose from the glass)?
Yes, you can paint on the resin, then submerge it in your projects. Glass contracting and expanding to allow the resin to come loose can happen. Keeping the aquarium out of direct sunlight and safe from temperature changes will help to prevent this.
I am a super noob to resin but I want to try it as I can’t find what I want. I want a nice either marble like or agate type large tray to have on a pouffe in my lounge. So like 40cm ish diameter. I can’t seem to find a mould.
So I have two questions:
1. What would you use to create a circlish shape of around 40cm diamete – I’ve read about silicone caulk but not sure I could create a deep enough resin that would be strong enough for that size.
2. Is this project too much for someone who has never worked with resin before? I am feeling overwhelmed by the choices so know I just need to buy a kit to begin with at least.
P.s thanks for this informative post!
i want to make resin by boiling from FD water , Crystal powder and triethylamine pls suggest how can i prepare.
I am knew to resin pouring and and not sure how to go about covering a 500 x 500 x 60 concrete plinth with new tin of epoxy resin that I was given. I wanted the plinth to be a black marble effect. Would it be better to cover it with an acrylic marble effect first then clear resin, or create the effect with resin to achieve the marble effect.
Paul
Hi Paul, you can do either.
Oh Boy…..I am guilty of all of these! One of the biggest mistakes I made was I went straight to the big molds like pyramids and cubes instead of doing the small jewelry molds until I got it figured out. Wasted a lot of resin doing this! I just had so many ideas in my head…lol
Why am I getting like a residue on my resin pieces. Does not happen all the time and mostly with trays and coasters. It is like a dirty makr across the resin as if it has not cured properly or to quickly. Any advice on why this is happening? I am thorough with my mixing and I only get this now and again. Thank you
Hi Alex, I’m not sure what’s going on here. Would you be interested in scheduling a video consultation with me? They are 15 minutes and cost $20. Being able to see what’s going on will help me give you the best advice. If you’re interested, you can message me through the ‘contact us’ link.
Hi
Is there any way to remove the resin from my painting?
After pouring resin on my painting I realized, I didn’t like it. Can I remove it?
Hi AG, you will need to sand off the resin, which will likely damage your painting. If you want to try, this article explains more: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/how-to-sand-resin-smooth/
Why did my photos get ruined in resin? Ran terribly 🙁
Hi Halla, I’m sorry this happened to you. It sounds like you didn’t seal them first. This article explains how to do that: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/how-to-seal-papers-or-findings-for-including-in-resin/
ok so ive read through all the comments and did not find my question answered as of yet so what do i do if my resin gets stuck to my mold i mean stuck stuck i had two molds that i had to rip/ cut off the finished piece how can i avoid this from happening again and if it does happen how do i get it to release from the mold with out ripping it?
Hi Kimmi, I’m sorry this happened to you. I give a tip in this forum post that might help: https://resinobsession.com/forums/topic/plastic-molds/
I am brand new to working with resin. After I mixed, dyed and poured my resin all went
well but then out of no where it bubbled and over flowed. I do not have a pressure pot yet so I expected a lot of bubbles….but I don’t want it to over flow in a pressure pot or I’ll never get it out.
Why did this happen? After 5 minutes of over flowing, it stopped and cured perfectly. I made a great beginner bowl.
After using epoxy resin, mixing well with glitter and pouring into the mold, after a bit I notice that a lot of the glitter comes together in one spot on the back/visible side. What can I do for that? As well as with chunky glitter it tends to do the same thing but it is rough on the back/visible side that you can feel the glitter, it’s not smooth. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Dana, the only glitter I’ve found that hasn’t done that is the Stampendous micro glitter. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/products/stampendous-micro-glitter
Hello
I have just started trying my hand at resin.
I have had a bit of success but with my last attempt the resin stuck to the silicon mould and left a residue on the coaster, I had to use some force to separate the mould from the resin resulting in the moulds ripping.
I think I did everything by the book but something went wrong somehow.
Can you advise ?
Thanks
Elaine
Hi Elaine, I’m sorry this happened to you. This article explains why: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-sticks-to-silicone/
Hello I have successfully used resin on a DIY project I just did except for one error I made on one of my pieces because of my heavy hand. I did “T”, “&”, and “M” wood letters, cut and glued photos on them and then used Envirotex lite pour on epoxy resin. The “T” and “M” came out perfect but the “&” symbol I poured too much onto and the resin cured inside the the two wholes of the “&” symbol. Is there any way to cut the cured resin out of the two wholes where I don’t want it to be because other that it’s perfect. Please and thank you!
Hi Melissa, yes, you can drill a hole in the open space, then use a jeweler’s saw to cut out the excess.
Hello, I’m making centerpieces for a wedding using plastic 12” lanterns. I want to use sand in the lantern however the venue will not allow real lose sand. I was wondering if I could mix resin with the sand and shells to put in the lantern and also add 2 artificial flowers in the middle, would this be possible? How would I go about mixing resin with real sand and shells? Would you give me some advice?
Thank you.
Hi Donna, yes, you can do a project like this. This article shows how to make a similar project: https://resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/mint-tin-koi-pond/
Hello, I am new to the world of resin! I bought a few supplies & molds looking to have some fun & make some flower earrings… However, not one of my pieces has came out right, I know I shouldn’t expect perfection just yet lol all of them have had small (cavity like) holes on the edges once curred. I am wondering if there is still too many bubbles in the resin mix that once they pop it leaves those gaps?? I purchased a heating gun to help with the bubbles cause there really was a million of them making my resin mix look still milky. My last batch still had a few bubbles & was a lot clearer but I still ended up with those holes. What would you recommend to do?
Hi Yvette, it sounds like you used a doming resin in your molds. They mix thick, making it hard to get out all the bubbles before it starts to cure. A casting resin mixes thinner, making it easier to get bubble-free castings. The Resin Obsession super clear resin is great for a project like this. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
Thank you for the response! The box I have says it is a clear casting resin, I have kept trying with it so it doesn’t go to waste before purchasing another one. I am not sure what is the problem but is it possible to submit a photo of the problem to an email? I really would like to learn where my mistake is coming from so I can get at least a few solid pieces down. Many thanks again 🙂
Hi Yvette, this article will give you some tips on how to handle bubbles: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-bubbles/
My God!.. Can you use a downward angle of you instead of an up your nose angle.. Its like watching a horror movie.
Why so mean?
As a beginner and having used the wrong type of epoxy resin (not your product) without realizing it…for making bangles that are 1/2” to 3/4” and most of which have not cured properly, I now understand that I should have been using a casting resin in my moulds. But one side of the mould usually is flatter…do I then use a doming resin to round off the flatter side? Thank you for the video about choosing resins. Valérie
Yes Valerie, you can finish your flat side with a doming resin. This is the one I would use: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-crystal-doming-resin
Hello crafters! I am a do-it-all handyman/ crafter/ inventor, etc. With epoxy resin, my skill level is about amateur to moderate, and the problem i always seem to run into is hair…. doesn’t matter how clean i think I’m being, there’s almost always a stray hair or brush strand that i managed to overlook on my finished projects. (I like to make swords and knives out of wood. Epoxy gives it that look and strength that polyurethane just doesn’t achieve!) I didn’t really have a question, i just thought I’d share my experience.
Pour too thick, and/or mix too much in a cup on a hot day. Both lead to runaway heating which kills pot life and can get even more exciting if you really overdo it.
My latest project: filling a hole in a board 3/4″ thick, ended with bubble-gaps probably due to overheating and a bit of moisture in the mix. The advice I have read for my epoxy (West Systems 105/207) is to limit pours to 1/4″ thick to avoid this kind of problem.
Hi Joe, thanks for sharing your insight. For a project like this, the Resin Obsession deep pour resin can be poured up to 2 inches thick in one pour. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
Been here, done that lol. If only I had these good information when I started making resin way back when. Nonetheless, I would pass this information to my fellow woodworkers whenever they try to do this for the first time.
Hi I’m going to attempt to make a two tiered cake stand I have the molds and hardware needed do I drill my holes after my resin has hardened or will it crack I don’t want to mess these up they are gifts for my adult children
Hi AJ, you will need to drill once the resin is cured.
I’am totally new to resin. I have done test runs to make sure i’m doing it right. I just made a major mistake. I was making 6 wooden coasters with the center routed out. We were using clear resin and putting irish pendants in the center. Everything went well until we noticed the part of the pendant that attaches to a chain was ever so slightly sticking out above the resin. no more room for resin. I bought some grinding bits for my dremel and grinding down the part sticking up. It’s going to go below the resin surface. Will a little resin fix the grind spots
Yes Mike, but you will need to cover the entire surface. Otherwise, you will see a faint line between the old and new layer. Unfortunately, resin doesn’t work as a good spackling paste.
Nice post you shared here. Thanks for posting such great content with us.
I am a first time tryer of resin. I measured same and then stired together. I am not sure I stirred long enough. I did for different coasters and two harded and the third/fourth ones are sticky on top. Could I use a little more and really mix up and see if that helps. Need your suggestions please and you can emails me.
Hi Diane, I’m sorry some of your coasters didn’t work out. This article explains why sticky resin happens and how to fix it: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/why-is-my-resin-sticky/
Thanks for the useful information. Now, let’s see. I did read the instructions, in fact, but…
I measured by weight because it seemed obvious to me as the best method so I assumed that’s what the instructions referred to. It probably wasn’t.
I underestimated the resultant volume and made too much.
I didn’t mix it properly (probably – at least not for as long as the second time).
I added pigment but had no idea how much to add, so I ended up adding WAY too much.
I let it harden for the prescribed amount of time, but the room I left it in was probably too cold.
So, at least five mistakes in a single batch. Better luck next time, I hope. 🙂
Good luck next time Hans. It sounds like you’ve got this!
All these tips ARE ACCURATE! The explanation was wonderful and it gives a person a chance to continue the project without giving up. Knowing that there are different ways to complete what you are trying to accomplish. My husband and I are guilty of trying to creating masterpieces at the first try lol. We will continue with this fun activity. I will be purchasing this book for the extra guidance.
Thanks so much, Melissa. I love hearing that you and your husband also have a resin obsession!
Totally accurate. I have a question thi. I’m venturing into smaller less stable molds and struggling to keep them standing. Any advice?
Hi Angel, it sounds like you need to make a support box for them.
I’d like to warn people to use professional molds only. I tried using a plastic butter tub and the resin melted the tub and ran all over.