So you’re crushing over all the creative things you can do with epoxy resin. Like making a piece of epoxy art for your living room. Or creating candy conversation heart jewelry. Or man cave coasters for a Father’s Day gift.
So you buy resin and then it hits.
You feel nervous about starting. Like you aren’t sure if the butterflies in your stomach are a good thing or a bad thing.
So you googled, ‘tips for working with epoxy resin’ and you ended up here.
Well helllooooo creative! 👋 My name is Katherine, and I’ve been a resin artist for 17 years. I’m here to help you corral those nervous butterflies in your stomach into something beautiful. Whether you’re new to epoxy or a seasoned professional, these tips will be helpful to you working with resin.
Before we get into the tips, let’s talk about what epoxy resin is, what it isn’t, and how it works.
How does epoxy resin work?
Epoxy resins come in two parts: the resin and the hardener. When you mix them together, the combo heats up. This heat changes the epoxy from a liquid to a solid. This is different than UV resin which requires a UV light source to harden.
You mix epoxy resin in a specific ratio. That means you mix a specific amount of resin with a specific amount of hardener.
Then, you have to use it within a certain amount of time (called pot time). Then, it takes a while to cure, which is called — get ready — cure time.
Now that you understand what resin is, let’s get into the tips for working with epoxy.
What safety precautions do you need to take when working with epoxy resin?
So this isn’t really a tip. A tip implies it’s optional.
Let me be Frank. (Or George. Or Walter.)
Resin safety is not optional. It’s necessary.
The three things you ABSOLUTELY FREAKING need to do are:
- Work in a well-ventilated area.
- Wear gloves.
- Use an epoxy that conforms to ASTM D-4236
Okay. Got the first two. But that last one?
Yeah, that one doesn’t get talked about enough.
I won’t dive into the weeds here, but it’s an in-depth process where a resin formula gets examined by people who have advanced degrees in toxicology. They review the formula and decide if it’s safe for you to use. If it is, it gets that ‘conforms to ASTM D-4236’ designation. So if you don’t see it on the label, that means that cheap epoxy resin isn’t safe to use. Ever.
By the way, all the Resin Obsession resins have that certification. Safety should never come at a cost.
What else can you do?
Well, my personal favorite is to wear a respirator when creating resin art. It’s optional, but an extra level of safety that I won’t go without.
⭐️ BONUS: You learn more about the mask I use in this article on epoxy resin safety precautions.
How should you prepare your crafting area for working with epoxy resin?
Cover your area with something resin won’t stick to. My favorites include the shiny side of parchment paper and silicone baking mats.
Then, make sure your surface is level. And somewhere that will stay undisturbed for a day or two at least.
And because cat hair and dust also have a resin obsession, put a plastic container over your resin while it’s curing.
⭐️ BONUS: Get a [FREE] downloadable resin supply checklist for working with epoxy.
What if you want to include things in your resin?
Life’s too short to say no to this.
Besides, it’s one of the coolest things you can do with clear epoxy resin. Resin magnifies images and makes them exceptionally clear.
And here’s the big thing you need to know:
If the item changes color when it gets wet, that means you need to seal it before including it in the resin.
What’s an example?
The big one here is papers. You need to seal them before including them in epoxy. Otherwise, your papers will look like a brown bag full of fast-food french fries.
And let the glue dry completely first. Otherwise, it won’t seal the papers. And they’ll still look like a brown bag full of fast-food french fries.
And if you don’t want to use stuff you have to seal?
That’s cool. I’m all for keeping it simple. Items like beads and stickers do well in resin without sealing.
⭐️ BONUS: Here’s how to seal papers for resin.
Does it matter what you use to color epoxy resin?
Not if you care about the results.
And I do mean that the way that sounds.
When working with epoxy, your best bet is to use colors specially designed for resin.
Why?
- They won’t fade or turn into something else.
- They won’t make your resin bendy or flexible.
- They make the same colors every time.
Real-world example:
You want to make resin jewelry to sell. The last thing you want is for customers to come back weeks to months later saying the colors are fading. Or, as I found out when I sold jewelry at art shows, someone loses an earring and wants to buy a replacement. It’s easy to make an extra when you’ve got the color handy.
But…
Part of resin is pushing its limits. Like pushing it to fail.
So you might want to try non-traditional colors. Like your eyeshadow collection from 1983. Or the dried-out spices that are even older.
⭐️ BONUS: Here’s how to color epoxy resin for your next project.
How about resin pouring tips?
Resin can pour quickly. Pouring from a smaller cup is easier to control, especially if you’re a resin novice.
White gets gobbled up by other colors easily. Add more white than you think you need.
Not only is a heat gun great for removing resin bubbles, but it’s also good at pushing the art epoxy around to make resin cells. Besides, it’s also less likely that you’ll start a resin fire with a heat gun when compared to a butane torch. Especially if you’re using anything flammable.
⭐️ BONUS: Get the beginner’s guide to making resin art.
Want more help working with epoxy resin?
Then you’ll love the resin book I wrote especially for beginners. Instead of spending hours watching videos and reading articles, you’ll get a clear path to creating with resin in only an afternoon. It’s the book I wish I had when I started making resin crafts. Buy the ebook now and get an email download link in minutes.
Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2023 Resin Obsession, LLC
I am new to this whole thing and I have 1000000 questions haha.
When you pour the resin into your mold and you have a laminated picture, how do you get it into your project? Once it is poured do you just lay it on top and it will stick or if you glue it how do you keep the glue from showing and when do you glue it? I have just bought products to make coasters with kids pictures in them. PLEASE give me STEP BY STEP instructions after mixing so say start at the pouring stage PLEASE and THANK YOU!!
Also, what type items can I use for molds? We need around 300 for Vacation Bible School projects? I need a very cheap mold to do a coaster or possibly something along that size?
Personally I would not use a resin project for children. its, messy and very sticky and if you get on skin can cause a rash, if you are using pictures, modge podge them on a 4×4 tile and then spray a clear coat over the tile, White tiles can be bought cheap at a used recycle store like Habitat for Humanity.
Hi Diane!
When using a laminated picture, trim the lamination away close to the picture edge, but not right on it. This little bit of a border will still keep your picture sealed and keep the resin from creeping in, but will still be clear (invisible) in your casting.
Do you want the picture to be on top of your finished casting? Where you want it when you are finished will determine when/where you place it as it relates to your mold. If you are pouring into a mold with the idea that you will pop the resin out and the part touching the inside of the mold will be the top, then you will want to pour and add your pictures in face down. (I know this comment sounds confusing. You’ve inspired me to make a video to cover the topic.)
As for cheap molds in bulk, I would suggest trying a restaurant supply store. You might be able to get some implements there. Do you know a restaurant owner? Buying their food in bulk also means they get lots of containers with lids? You might be able to use them. Experiment first though. I don’t have any concerns that the resin will cure in it, but I worry about you getting it out (use some mold release) and how it will look (the resin will take on any textures in the surface). I am also going to post this topic in the forum to get others to comment. Look for it under ‘how can I ….’
Can I do my deep pour on top of shallow pour (epoxy resin bottle cap table. My shallow pour is almost completely dry now and no longer tacky! I’ve heard that I might have to lightly sand it to give it a key but I’d much rather avoid this of possible. Thanks.
As long as your surface is clean, you can pour a new layer of resin.
Hi Tommy!
Duly noted on the format.
Are there any topics you would like to see articles on?
Can’t this go on a metal base
A better magazine theme would make the blog nicer.:)
H! Don’t know if this is too late for you or not, but, JC, you can make your own molds with a bake-able clay like Sculpey and a product caleld Amazing Mold Putty which you can buy at any Hobby Lobby or, I believe, Micheal’s. For example, say you want a square pendant. Simply make a square out of clay, bake the clay to harden it and then use the mold putty to capture that square base for you to pour in your resin. Hope this helps! 🙂
Do the finished resin items release well from these & do you use a spray to assist in this? Very interested in this.
Hi Kristine, this article will help: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-mold-release/
As Tanapol mentioned, the silicone mold putty and modeling clay are great for making molds! We have both of them here:
https://www.resinobsession.com/ItemPage/5534/Alumilite-Synthetic-Modeling-Clay.html
https://www.resinobsession.com/ItemPage/5323/Alumilite-Amazing-Silicone-Putty-Kit.html
Looking to inlay a bird beak? Into a pendant any suggestions?
I am wanting to make specific designs on tumblers with different colored resins, but I’m not sure how I should go about it. Should I do one part, let it dry and then do the colored design part to keep the two colors from mixing??
hi dear i have stone coffee table witch i love .it has a small crack on it can i do coting with resin to make the surface clean and shiny plzzz give me some advise
Cat hair
My piece has set overnight and now i see three cat hairs. What can i do about that? I am sure there is no way to soften the epoxy to get them out. Can i sand them and then put on another coat?
You mention to prevent discoloration and water stains, seal both sides and edges of the image…What are some of the ways I can seal them? I have Liquid Sculpey, Mod Podge, Judikins MicroGlaze, and Sculpey Glaze…
I use resin over acrylic painted surfaces. Sometimes there are areas that the Resing does not stick to. I clean the surface, dry it, and sometimes I put a second coat on it. Do you have any suggestions or know why it does this?
It sounds like there is something in the painting (like silicone) that is keeping the resin from adhering. What are you using to wash your painting?
There is some silicone in the fluid paint. We let it dry completely and wash the paintings with water. Should I wipe it down with alcohol?
Judi,
This blog post should answer your questions: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/how-to-seal-papers-or-findings-for-including-in-resin/
I’ve seen silver jewelry were colored resin is “floating” between the silver strands to create a stained glass look. How would you go about this? Could you somehow use wax paper as a backer then remove it once the resin is cured?
Beth,
You will want to use masking tape as your backer. Press your wire template firmly onto the tape and pour your resin as usual. I show the technique in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WblAP-B6vPw
I have been enjoying working with resin but I have not yet been able to find out how to avoid the rim that forms on the outer edge of a piece of work in a flat mould. I have tried sanding it down but it takes an age and is not a good finish. I would appreciate comment on this please. Many thanks.
How would I put a piece of a soda can in to make a coaster?
What a neat idea Angeal! You could cut it out and add it directly to the resin.
Sheryn,
What you’re experiencing is the effect of the surface tension of the resin next to the mold. (I don’t the exact physics here…) You will need to sand the edge down to get it even.
Hi Katherine,
I am working on a sign for a friend that will be primarily outside, in the FL sun. It is a metal sign and I’ve painted it with Acrylics. I also want to glue paper designs to it. I need to use something that will keep the water out and also not damage the paper designs. I have been all over the internet and am not sure how to go about it. Do you have any suggestions? Is resin the way to go? Should I not do the paper designs at all?
Hi there, If i were to print the image with my ink jet, what paper material am i supposed to use?
@Yen,
I like to use a bright white paper, not necessarily photo paper. (In my experience, the images on photo paper will sometimes smear, even with glue). Regardless of what paper you use, you will need to seal it before embedding in the resin.
@Tracey,
Hmm. I don’t know that resin is the easiest choice here. Since it is going to be outside, I would suggest using either polyurethane or polyester resin. Both will cure hard, however, they each have disadvantages. The polyester resin is cheap, but will yellow with exposure to UV light. (It will happen quickly in FL!) The polyurethane is pretty durable, but can be downright crabby to work with in Florida (and is a bit more expensive). Polyurethane hates moisture (humidity included)! The only way I could get polyurethane resin to consistently work here in FL was to use it in a room that was completely sealed off with the dehumidifier running. I had to get the humidity levels under 50 percent for it to work. Regardless of which one you choose, be sure to take the proper safety precautions.
Hoping you can help me as I’ve scoured the net looking for answers and fixes with no success. The craft I was making was a candy toilet seat for my bathroom. My husband and I followed the instructions in the book I have, watched tutorials and researched the dickens before just diving in to make the seat. In spite of following the instructions, something went horribly wrong. The reaction was so bad that parts of the mold actually melted and warped and some of the candies literally cooked and melted.
After letting it set up, I was able to take the seat out of the mold and in feeling mold, there are ripples and some bubbles in places where the reaction was intense it melted the plastic. To say I was disappointed is an understatement because we followed the directions and can’t figure out where it went wrong. The first two layers went fine. It all seemed to go kablooey in the last pour/set up.
Do you know if I attempted to try the seat again, will the ripples be able to be sanded out so the seat is smooth as it should have been or is it a total loss on that part of the mold? If the seat part is a total loss, do you know of anyone who sells just one piece instead of the set? In your experience, can you explain as to why this reacted the way it did and if reattempted what should be done differently?
Appreciate any input as this project has been a huge disappointment.
@Bonny,
I have answered your question in our resin jewelry forum under troubleshooting.
I wrapped some large resin blocks that i have made in bubble wrap for safty in transportation. On unwrapping them the bubble wrap has left an impression on the surface. Has anyone any ideas how to remove this please. These pieces were so difficult and time consuming to make.
@Sue,
I don’t know how deep your marks are, but this discussion on the forum may help: https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-Jewelry-Making-Forum/8/Whoops/Need-help-repairing-damaged-castings/485.html
I am designing a Cocktail Barrel. And on the top wish to add resin with “pirate” themed items. Ie Keys, starfish, octopus, skull, mini bottle, chest, rope Etc…
I wish to add bits of colour splashed here and there.
Should this need sanding down? Will the clear parts stay clear or frosted?
Never attempted resin before so trouble shooting this first to see if worth the hassle.
Hi Clare, I don’t anticipate this project needing to be sanded after pouring. What clear parts are you referring to when you say ‘clear parts’? This is the resin I would use for a project like this: https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/resin-obsession-artwork-epoxy-resin
Hi there, I want to coat a table top. I have yet to decide whether I will set a picture or actual items in the resin. In any case, I’m not sure how to control the flow of resin of the edges of the table ? Do I just let it run off naturally and sand it down after or is there another method ? Appreciate any advice. Many thanks.
@kevin,
Put a ridge of high quality masking tape around the edge of the table. The resin won’t stick to the tape and you will be able to pull it away once it cures. You may have to do a little bit of sanding to get off the grainy appearance once you’re done.
I want to make orgone pyramids, using resin and stones/crystals…. but I have heard you can only make them in temperatures above 70 degrees, and that making resin items in doors is very toxic, any tips? Also in the pyramids I have seen the stones ‘float’ in the resin, how is this achieved? if that is not too big a question…manythanks
@Pam,
Epoxy resin is generally safe to work indoors provided you have enough ventilation and wear safety gloves. To make the stones float in resin, you will need to pour in layers. You can see what I’m referring to in this tutorial: https://www.resinobsession.com/Resin-Tutorials/286/Button-Bangle-Resin-Bracelet-tutorial.html
My house has beautiful brass decorative backplates on the interior doorknobs but there are a few missing. Rather than replace them all with something new, I’d like to try to make matching replacements for the missing ones. I’ve been reading about resin and I’m thinking about using clay to make a mould from an existing plate and then making new plates with resin. I plan to paint the finished pieces with metallic spray paint. Do you think resin is a good material for this? Any suggestions?
@Courtney,
Yes, resin would work well. I would suggest a polyurethane resin for its durability and lower overall cost for the amount of resin you’re going to need. (As a side note — you can color the resin with metallic coloring — no need to paint them!)
Hello- I want to attach transparency paper to the top of a thick glass paperweight- can easycast clear epoxy resin be used to adhere the paper? I plan to brush it generously underneath, place the image and let it cure, then a second application of resin over the top of the paper to coat and reduce the seam. I have already worked with the same paper – embedding it in bangles with success – but never with glass. Unable to find confirmation on this site or elsewhere- any help is appreciated.
@Gina Marie, I have never done what you’re describing, but resin does stick to glass. I think it should work here.
Hi. I have a problem with micro bubbles. I use epoxy resin as a sealant between my pendant trays and images, and a coat between my image and glass cabochon overlay. My problem is this: Even when I get ALL bubbles out with heat (this includes first using heat on the layer of resin between the pendant tray and the image, and then again on the layer of resin between the image and the glass) and all bubbles are gone, after the resin starts to cure (about an hour or so into the process) dozens of little micro bubbles appear under the glass. By this point in time, the resin is too tacky to press on the glass to get the air bubbles to just seep out the sides (where the glass ends and the edged of the pendant tray begins) and removing the glass just ruins the image, and I have to re-pour all over again, only to have the same problem when the new layer starts to cure. Is there a way to prevent these micro bubbles from forming? Or should I using something other than resin for this job?
@Kaitlyn, I would suggest using a good glue instead of the resin for what you’re trying to do. Normally, these microbubbles would pop and you wouldn’t see them, but the glass cabochon is keeping them from escaping.
Hi Katherine! I love your site! I’ve never worked with resin before but I am pretty crafty and refinish and upcycle furniture and home decor for a living. I’m entering a county fair Upcycling crafts contest. I’m going to take a stack of old Vogue and Harpers Bazaar magazines and make a stool or a kids chair out of it and I’m hoping pouring resin over the stack will be enough to stick the stack together so that it becomes one piece . Can I then screw in a piece of plexiglass on top and bottom or will it crack? Should I brush it on or pour it? I’m afraid pouring will make a “puddle ” at the bottom? Lots of questions sorry but If you could start me in the right direction it would be most appreciated! Thank you!
@Lisette, I’m not sure the finished product will be stable. I’m thinking you would have better luck decoupaging the magazines over an already created form.
hI Katherine i hope you can help me. I too am having trouble with microbubbles. I make pendants using E6000 epoxy to seal my inkjet printed photos onto glass cabochons. I have had only two successful runs. The rest have been plagued by bubbles. No matter how hard or light I push they form either right after i mate them or not long after. I use glossy photo paper and glaze the back. I don’t seal the photo itself but haven’t had any trouble with inks running. I was wondering about everything from the humidity to the quality of paper. I’ve even tried uv epoxy with the same results. I’m desperate because people want my pendants and love my designs but I need to find a solution before I can make a strong go of it. Hope you can help.
Have you tried to warm the resin in warm water before mixing and pouring? I have only had a problem with micro bubbles when my resin is too cool before I mix. The artresin site has a section on the FAQ’s about this? Hopefully it helps!
@Deborah, so that I’m clear, the bubbles are forming between the glass cabochon and the paper?
I am going to make a wedding gift using metal house numbers. I am going to spray paint them and then place them in a frame to be filled with resin. Do you think that I need to seal the numbers before putting in the resin? If so, what would you suggest using to seal them?
@Amber, you shouldn’t need to seal the metal numbers before putting them in the resin.
@Gail, I would try applying another layer of resin to the tray.
Dear Katherine
I recently had a glass resin finish done on a tray for an art auction at my school ( I am a teacher). Three weeks later i touched it and found parts are still sticky. I assume that the person who did the job did not mix the resin properly but now need your help!!!! Is there a way to fix the tray which was worked on for may hours by my class?
Regards
Gail
@Heidi, in looking at the link you included in your comment, it doesn’t look those art works were created using resin. It’s not clear to me what you’re trying to create.
I was casting some gems for a costume and the surface of a few of them are tacky while the rest of them are perfectly fine. They all came from the same pour so it’s not a ratio problem or I’d be experiencing it in all the gems. What would get rid of the tackyness? Would covering it a clear coat of spraypaint work or would it harm it?
@MK, if they are just a little sticky (like touching the surface of tape), then yes, a clear coat of an acrylic based spray paint should be fine.
Hello! I’ve inherited a dark glass dining table that has many scrapes and several deep scratches. I really like the table and am considering either painting the table or etching it. Do you think I could use the resin as a final coat?
@Luise, after you have fixed the scratches, a resin coating should work.
@Cindy, I haven’t done that. If you want to try, I would certainly seal them before using them in resin.
Want to use small mold with small cut up dried flowers. I have the different molds already. Can I paint some of the flowers to restore the color prior to using the resin?
@Katherine, thanks for your feedback. The tiny microbubbles tend to appear after the time it’s ‘safe’ to pick at the resin (is really tacky) and they are impossible to get out with a needle/toothpick as they are so small. Any other ideas? Thank you
I am making resin pendants and earrings. I seal the images with modpodge and glue to the bezel base leaving them atleast 24 hours to dry before pouring the ice resin. 2-3 hours into the curing process, microbubbles appear in the resin (looks like dust). Can you please advise on potential cause and solution? Thanks in advance.
@Kim, I would suggest checking your pendants frequently (every 15 minutes or so) after you pour them to remove those bubbles. As resin cures (and subsequently heats up), sometimes bubbles are produced.
We just did a coffee table with bottle caps and poured the resin. After drying we noticed some caps were higher than others and not quite covered. We decided to spot pour to fill in but you can see ridges. Is there a way to get rid of them. Any help would be appreciated
@Deb, If you want an even layer, you are going to have to recoat the entire table
@Kim, my suggestion would be to try warming the bezel with a heat gun, then pouring a bit of resin. Make sure all the bubbles are out of that layer before pouring more. Warm again with a heat gun to get any additional bubbles to rise to the surface.
@Katherine, Thank you – i will try this next pour 🙂
Hi Katherine
I’ve tried a few castings with different embedded items and have found that plastics and such work fine for me, but I have encountered a thin layer of ‘bubble’ it’s more of a film of bubble around a small sculpture of grey fiberboard…now it looks like some kind of surface tension thing. In places the resin has soaked in slightly to the board and so bonded nicely, even though it has made the board darker. But in other places the resin doesn’t seem to have adhered and that there is a thin layer of air between sculpture and resin.
I’ve seen a similar thing with some rough wood splinters Ive tried to embed. Is there something I can coat the fiberboard and wood with to prevent this film?
Many thanks for your time and experience.
Chris.
@Chris, a clear drying glue or an acrylic spray should work well.
I am making a bathroom vanity using an old buffet. I would like to make a faux marble top with contact paper and epoxy. Any suggestions to prevent yellowing and a firm set? Edges?
Thank you!
i wrap a clear epoxy coated painting with plastic wrap. it left mark that i couldn’t even get off with acetone. my only though it that i wrapped it too soon. please advise. i need to wrap the work and do not want marks left.
thank you
Don’t Use Cling Film. I did the same thing with an epoxy flood top slab table. I wanted to prevent dust and scratches when I flipped it over to sand the drips. I was using MAS Table Top Pro epoxy. It had cured approx. 30 hours when I had the great idea to use household “cling” wrap to cover the new surface. It went on easy ,stuck well, and removed with no mark after 5 minutes. 24 hours later I removed the film and every place it made contact left an oily looking film. Denatured alcohol nor Simple Green would remove it. It did not “rub” like a grease film. Since I was going to have to sand it and recoat anyway if wondered if it would evaporate or melt with heat. Back to the propane torch. You have to apply heat ALMOST to the Smoking/Scorching Point but you will see it vaporize and the surface go back to clear gloss. Heat control is everything. Don’t Scorch IT. Test it on a test piece first to master the heat control. It took me about 25-30 minutes to clear a 12 sqft table top. Good luck.
Larua, My heat method may not work with your painting due to excessive heat transfer through the coating to the painting below. A walnut slab with nearly a quarter inch of epoxy can soak up a lot of heat without damage. A thin epoxy coat on canvas or paper not nearly as much. Definitely do a test piece first.
@larua, it sounds like your resin wasn’t completely cured. You will need to recoat with another layer of resin.
I have a couple of necklaces that have resin pieces set in the metal. They are supposed to be white, but they have yellowed. Is there a way to paint them so that they will be white again and wear well? I thought about trying nail polish. What would you suggest?
I haven’t tried this, but others have told me that acrylic paint works well on cured resin.
I have a glass collage on a wooden board with a poured resin finish. I would like to paint a short verse on the lower corner. Would lettering using acrylic paint adhere to the gloss resin?
@Gerri, Yes, acrylic paint should adhere fine.
Hello, I am planning to use an old dresser as a bathroom vanity. My plan was to pour an epoxy glaze on the top flat surface on which the sink and faucet are mounted. When should I drill holes for plumbing connections? Before the epoxy goes on? After the epoxy has cured? Thanks for your input, this is a bathroom remodel project.
I would drill after the epoxy has cured.
Hi there, I have an old beautiful monkey pod wooden coffee table from Hawaii that I am looking to refinish. Its from the 50’s and the main issue I’m faced with is that the existing topcoat which I believe to be a epoxy resin has seen some wear and tear over the years and I have chips, scratches, a couple cracks…. all of which are in the topcoat, not the wood that I want to correct to make the table look beautiful once again. Whats the best approach to tackling this? Do I fill the cracks in with epoxy resin and then sand it after its cured to blend into the topcoat, then after that step pour on a brand new top coat? Am I missing anything here? Also, can a oil based sanding sealer be used on top of the old topcoat before I begin sanding to help smooth things out and make the sanding in preparation for the new topcoat be easier? Thanks and take care!
If I were going to try this project, I would sand down/off the top layer of resin such that all the defects are sanded out. Be sure to end with a very fine grit of sandpaper (1000 or higher), otherwise, you will see sanding marks when you pour the next layer of resin. I would then put on a new top coat. I would not use an oil based anything on the resin. Resin can be a little crabby with things like that.
Thanks for the blog!
I would like to cast some old movie reels in resin to use as a seat on a bar stool in my theater room. Would I be able to drill into the resin to mount onto the stool?
Yes.
I am coating wooden chopping boards with resin, but I’m finding small air bubbles are forming, (after removing the normal bubbles with a flame torch), that it’s too late to get rid of them, then I have to sand and re-pour! I do seal the wood first but it doesn’t make any difference. Any suggestions?
What are you using to seal the wood?
I’m using liquitex gloss medium varnish over the acrylic ( no bubbles form there) and on the wood where the bubbles/gas forms.
Hmm. I’m not familiar with that product. Perhaps two to three coats of it before pouring the resin? My thought is that there bubbles that are being release during the resin curing process. I suspect that while the resin is heating up, it is drawing more bubbles to the surface through the liquitex. Maybe another couple of coats will keep the bubbles sealed in.
Thanks but I already apply 2 coats. Could it be the room is to warm?
I doubt it, unless you are working in an oven. 😉 Is the wood very porous?
It can get very warm.. If the resin sets to quickly can it cause this reaction with the wood. The wood is sealed and it doesn’t seem porous at all when I coat it. I’m stumped. I’ve just poured an acrylic mix with resin on the wood and it worked beautifully. But the resin by itself on the wood.. Is proving to be difficult.
Assuming your resin is as close to bubble-free as possible when your pour it, my two thoughts are that either the resin is reacting with something or trapped air is being released later. So it’s not bubbling if you put the acrylic layer on first? I’m not clear when the bubbles are occurring.
I am interested in make a beach themed table; sand, seashells and then covering it with resin. Does anyone know the best way to do this or how resin and sand interact. I was worried about the sand absorbing the resin.
Hi Lewis, we have some discussions going on in our forum that should help you: https://www.resinobsession.com/?s=resin+table
I need to make a mold that is very long and rectangular. What product can I use that will leave clean lines and not stick to the resin. I had heard that polypropylene doesn’t stick. Is that true?
Polypropylene usually doesn’t stick to resin, but I don’t think you will get the clean lines you want. In this case, I would suggest making a silicone mold.
Thank you
Can you cut cured 3/4″ deep resin with a table saw? Will it shatter on the cut seam?
Depends on the kind of resin. I would be more concerned that it would not withstand the heat from sawing.
I am looking to make a hanging faux stained glass window for privacy in the window inside my shower. The window does get a damp, but not soaked, and gets a few hours of sun per day.
I am thinking of using plexiglass as the base. My plan is to sand the plexiglass, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol to remove any oil and dust and apply self adhesive led strips for my outlines, then pour eyeshadow tinted resin to make my “glass”.
Can you suggest the best resin for this project?
Will it need to be sealed with something to protect it from dampness?
Any advice at all is most welcome!
I’ve never worked with resin before, but I’ve always wanted to and I can’t wait to start!
I haven’t tried anything like this, so I’m afraid I can’t recommend a resin. I would expect resin would adhere to the plexiglass, but I don’t have any experience with it, so I don’t want to tell you for sure that it will work. You will also need to find a way to adhere the LED strips to the plexiglass to make sure the resin doesn’t leak underneath. I wouldn’t expect adhesive strips to be enough of a barrier. Since you are new to resin and this is an ambitious project, I would suggest this blog post for reading as well: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-jewelry-making-what-every-beginner-needs-to-know You are going to need to attack this project in small steps, doing experiments along the way, before going after your large scale idea.
I am planning on doing a craft paper counter top as part of a kitchen remodel. I really want to use epoxy instead of a polyurethane type sealer. I am concerned about how to address the sides of the back splash and the edges of the counter. Can epoxy be brushed on those edged and then just poured on the flat surface where it will be more vulnerable to wear?
An epoxy is going to go on thick and will want to run off the sides. You may have to use a polyurethane sealer on the vertical surfaces, then use an epoxy on the horizontal surface.
Hi i want to use resin on a hair project
Im a licensed cometologist and im in a big show i would like to knw more about the proportions to use and what to use to paint it on.
I don’t understand your question. Do you want to paint resin onto to people’s hair and skin?
I am planning on glazing deer antler slices with easycast epoxy resin. I have a few questions regarding the application. What would I use to glaze just the top? I have seen people seal their objects with easycast using a popsicle stick. I dont want to leave any brush marks or bristles behind. So would the stick be good if I use the resin sparingly? And another question, the bone of the antler is not very porous but the dried marrow in the middle is very porous. What can I use to seal it before I apply the resin? I want to avoid the micro bubbles.
I’m also planning on trying them as open back bezels. I carved out the marrow and sanded the inside bone. Will I have any issues with bubbling? Or should I just seal it to be on the safe side?
Thanks in advance for your advice!
P.S.
The antlers were found in the woods. Deer shed them and I find them and use them in my jewelry.
Hi, Katherine. Thanks for replying.
No, I don’t have a way of suspending them to glaze them. I never even thought of that honestly. Do you have any ideas? I am going to test on a few extra slices that didn’t come out even just to see how the resin will act as a glaze.
Unfortunately, I don’t have any great ideas to suspend them. I’m thinking it would be great to have them hang upside down such that the resin could drip off the points.
Hey. I just seen your question. I use naturally shed antlers as open back bezels and I’ve never had an issue with bubbles and I’ve never sealed them. I just poured in layers. Let each layer cure for 24 hours. Also, I use Scotch Heavy Duty shipping tape. With every other tape, it’s either left a bumpy finish where it was sealed or, with the cheap brand shipping tape, the glue on the tape fused with the resin and left it cloudy.
Hi! Please advise! I used a two part epoxy over a laminated image on a piece of ash wood. It looked great for about three weeks and now the image started to bubble up and warp! It was flat and perfect for a while. Any thing i can do? It’s a gift for my mom tomorrow and I’m totally bummed. Thank you so much!
Have you been hanging the picture in the sun?
how can I make epoxy coat smoothly? im trying to coat a spary painted mug and its creating lines in the epoxy
Are you rotating the cup while the epoxy is curing? If not, it can pool up in certain areas and thin out in others, which can create lines.
Hi Katharine!!! I love your website and your amazing YouTube videos!!!! I am trying to make semisphere dandelion molds , would I use the same technique to finish the underside as on your video for finishing a sphere? ( flex shaft, wet dry sand paper and Novus polish compound? Would that also clear up the leftover flower stem poking out? Thanks again
So that I’m clear, the casting would be flat on one side? (and thanks so much for the kind words)
Thanks so much for your response, I really appreciate your input. I’m currently using 40 mm semi sphere molds and first I pour the polyester resin/catalyst, then I grab a dandelion by the stem and slowly immerse the flower in until the bottom of the flower hits the base of the dome. Then I’m left with the remaining part of the dandelion and stem sticking out of the top which is the flat side and will be the underside of the finished product. I plan to mount the finished product onto a bezel but when I take it out of the mold it is very irregular shaped because it is hardened around the jutting out stem and remainder of flower that didn’t fit in the mold. bits of dandelion are sticking out.
What I would do then is use a razor or scalpel blade to cut the stem as close to the resin base as possible. I would then sand the bottom like I do in this video on doing a resin bangle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51kSn5Xqfw8
I want to make wood frame necklace with dry flowers. My problem is when I pour resin into frame (I firmly pressed frame to stick different kind of tapes ) it leaks under. Which tape i should use to avoid it? Thank you!
I have always had the best luck with a good quality masking tape.
Fill the holes with wax. Resin won’t stick to wax.
I would like to pour epoxy resin into a small picture frame so that I can embed some small objects into it. Can I put something under the frame to hold the resin until it hardens? And then remove it? I would like to skip using a mold. Can you suggest something to help me?
Masking tape works great for this. Once the resin has cured, you can remove the tape.
Thanks for your response. The area is 4″x6″. Would it work with wide duck tape? How about taping a piece of wax paper? Could I overlap duck tape? What happens when you remove the tape? Will it be clear?
Thank you so much Katherine. I will try the wide masking tape per your suggestion. I would just like to skip the mold stage if possible. I wonder how that blue painter’s tape or the frog tape would do – maybe leave less residue …
I am pouring resin over ceramic tiles to make coasters. After they cured, one of the coasters produced one bubble! (erg!) Instead of sanding the bubble and repouring resin, is there a way I can just ‘touch up’ the bubble spot, after sanding of course? Thank you!!!
I would suggest filling the bubble area with more resin.
Hello, I wanted to ask a couple questions about epoxy resin.
Would I be able to spray Epoxy Resin with a paint gun on a rounded “etched” glass surface?
Is the epoxy toxic?
Thank you!
I would think the epoxy would be too thick to go through a paint gun.
Hi! I would like to create an abstract art piece on canvas. I’m mixing each of my acrylic paint colors in separate cups with epoxy resin and doing a free hand pour of each colour. Is there a particular type of oil I can also drop into some of the colors to make “cells”? I’m *very* new at this! I would like to create my own piece of artwork for my home. Thank you.
I am gluing a photo (on glossy photo paper) into a locket for a necklace. Do I need to do anything to prep the picture or can I just lay epoxy on top of it to seal the image onto the locket?
Is there a certain type of epoxy I should use for this type of job? Thanks….
Can I use Modge-Podge to seal a photo printed on glossy photo paper to seal it? Does it need to be sealed on both the front and back or just the front where the epoxy will be applied?
Yes, Mod Podge will be fine. A minimum of two coats, front and back, then glue into the bezel. Allow at least 12 hours to completely dry.
hi,
can we apply epoxy resin to a laminated furniture?
Provided the furniture has been properly sealed so as not to take up moisture, yes, it will work.
Hi, I am making a bar top, using 3/4 inch plywood and pallet boards on the top of that will be the surface. I will then nail an edge. What can I use in the seams so that I don’t lose epoxy when pouring? I was told Vaseline.
Thank you.
Scott
You can use Vaseline, but you won’t have an easy way of getting it out after you pour the resin. I would suggest taping the seams with a good quality masking tape. The resin won’t stick to it and you can remove it after the resin has cured.
Hello i am trying to make a cylinder shape mold with a flower inside what can i use to make this mold and will the flower die if i fully cover it in epoxy resin?
You need a cylinder shaped template to make your mold from. As for the flower, it needs to dried and preserved before adding to the resin.
Hi. I was wondering if a doming resin would work on a bracelet plate that has a slight curve to it?
It should, but depending on the amount of curve, you may need to watch the piece for a period of time to remove drips.
I am trying to epoxy JUST the top of a bookcase. Can you use tape to tape off the painted wood where you don’t want the epoxy to go?
Yes. Use a good quality masking or packing tape.
Thank you for your help!
So. For the most part, the project came out awesome! There is a baseball size spot where the epoxy is obviously too thin. Can I spot treat just that one area?
Unfortunately, you are going to have to recoat the entire surface. Otherwise, it won’t look even.
does epoxy stick to glass? I want to paint something and put it on glass surface for cure time ,so I wonder if excessive amount could cause problem .
Yes, epoxy resin sticks to glass.
Hi! I’m new to this, and I wanted to use epoxy to make jewelry. But, my family got 2 part epoxy for tables or other large surfaces. Will the epoxy for the tables work the same if I use it for jewelry?
It depends. If you are using it in bezels, then it will work, although it may not be as crystal clear as jewelry quality resins. If you want to use it for molds, it won’t be easy. Tabletop resins mix quite thick. It will be difficult to get out the bubbles.
Help!!! In an effort to put my coasters somewhere safe from our pup, They were placed in the spare bathroom on the counter, but I totally forgot to take them off the metal rack I placed them on for initial pouring…sanding will take me forever and so gar hasnt worked. I cant chip it away with a knife! What do I do?! How can I get them to unstick from the rack??! I’m contemplating heat to melt the resin maybe?
Yes, that’s what I would try at this point.
Hi! I’m new to resin and your blog has been really helpful. I just poured epoxy resin into a mould, but I’d prefer to fill it more! After a 72 hr cure, can I just mix some more and pour right over the first pour? Will I have to sand the first layer, or will it be alright to skip that and just pour directly onto the smooth resin? thanks in advance!
You can go ahead and pour that next layer. No need to sand unless there is a blemish you are trying to fix.
Awesome! Thanks so much 🙂
Hi I’m new to epoxy and want to cover my kitchen Worktop’s with broken mirror glass pieces then epoxy have you any tips for me i.e. What products are best for that ultra clear high gloss glass finish and also what primer to use and what to use to stick the mirror pieces down with many thanks sue
Thank you that’s a start my Worktop’s are approximately 9 metres by 25 inches would you know how much I should order for a good coverage? Oh and could I also do the edges in the same way as it won’t be an even surface if I use broken glass/ mirror pieces do you think I would get a better outcome if I encased the surface edges and one last thing have you ever seen this before if so what was your verdict thanks again sue
This post on our blog will help you do the math on calculating how much resin you need. https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/how-much-resin-do-i-need/ Once you put the resin on the side, it will want to drip down. I don’t know how well the sides will get coated. I have not done a project like this before, but I can share that ‘sparkly’ stuff like crystals and mirrors will not be as sparkly once they are under resin. It has to do with the light not refracting like it does when it goes through air. (There is a physics explanation for it, I just don’t know what it is. LOL)
I’m joining countertops together and we used 3m aluminum tape. When we went to remove the tape we had to sand it off. What would you recommend to hold the resin in the joints so it doesn’t pour out from the bottom of the joint when joining the two countertops.
Good quality masking or packing tape will work well.
Hello, I have a big concern.
i tried using resin hardner mix on canvas after watching tutorials of resin art on youtube. All of them used plastic glasses to mix the color and the resin-hardener mixture. My problem is that when i mixed the resin hardener with the color in plastic glass, it was fuming hot and boiled, dissolving the plastic glass, spilling all the mixture out and fuming. It was horrific experience, i don’t know why it happened. Can you please guide me ??? I really want to paint some interesting concepts with resin art but i feel unsure about what i should change in the process because the last one turned out to be a science experiment. 😛
It sounds like you mixed up more than the recommended mixing amount and things cured too quickly. I would suggest getting in touch with the manufacturer to get their recommendations on the maximum amount to mix at once.
I want a water clear finish from my resin,, however when using silicone molds i find that i am not getting a water clear finished face to my resin..i am using clear cast resin and hardner can you help
Hi Gordon, it sounds like the surface of your mold isn’t smooth and shiny. Do you have the same problems when using plastic molds?
my silicone molds are completely cured and smooth,,when my resin is cured and comes out it has a wrinkly finish in places on the sides and semi wrinkly on the face,,?? any thoughts mat
ybe i pulled it out too soon some parts are crystal clear and some arnt ?
It sounds like your resin is getting too hot. Are you using polyester resin by chance?
yes its a polyesyer resin called kleer kast
Then yes, it got too hot during the curing process. Try using less catalyst.
awesome cheers,, so do you think less catalyst will lower heat and slow curing process but still result in the very hard finish that i could polish if necessary ??
Yes
Thanks Katherine you have been wonderful to bounce stuff around with,,any thoughts on the use of release agents powder etc in silicone molds that do not affect the finished face of water clear resin ?
Hi Gordon, I like both our aerosol mold releases here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/mold-release Unfortunately though, these cannot ship outside the U.S. The Castin’ Craft mold release and conditioner (on that page) can ship worldwide. It is a good alternative.
Hello,
I purchased this awesome vintage side table but the top is cracked. The glass top is completely attached to the wood design so I cant replace the glass without getting rid of the design. Its it possible to just to use epoxy to cover the glass? This way it feels smooth to the touch? I actually dont mind the cracked look of the glass.
Yes, it will work well.
Any advice on applying resin to spray painted surfaces?
I’ve been trying to spray paint some bottle caps, affix an
image and then fill with resin. Trouble is the spray paint
keeps leaching into the resin and causing discoloration.
I’ve tried spray painting a coat of varnish over the inside of the bottle caps to try and seal the paint before applying
the resin. Although leaching is much less, it’s still
happening and driving me mad! Not sure if this is a solvent on solvent issue or what? Starting to think it might be a
better idea to make moulds first and then affix them using modge podge or something rather than pouring the resin
straight into the bottle caps. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated!
I haven’t used it so I can’t say for sure unfortunately.
Hi! I have this beautiful reclaimed barn wood table that was done in resin. There is a crack right down the center between two of the boards. Is there a way I can fix the crevice without sanding the entire table down? The resin is quite thick and the table is enormous. I thought about maybe putting it into a syringe and squirting it into the crack then sanding the entire table and sealing it. Any suggestions?
Yes, that sounds like a good plan.
What is the best way to avoid fish eyes? What is the best way to fix them? I keep getting them when pouring on a clean, flat surface and then sanding and repouring to fix. It results in multiple pours that I thought no are unnecessary and expensive! There HAS to be a better way!
I don’t understand what you mean by fish eyes.
Help! I have been using resin for a while now and I use real flowers. The flowers with red or pink pigment in them they change color turning either blue or green. Please help me!
It sounds like you aren’t sealing them first. We have a few articles on how to do that: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
I am wanting to make Nav lights for my boat and am thinking of making a 2 pour piece. The back side would be black and the front would be clear. I will be making a 1 1/2″round rod as the finished product. Can I first pour the black and allow it to dry enough to add my electronics and then encapsulate the remaining area in clear?
Yes, that should work.
Yesterday I poured resin over beer caps that I had hot glued down to wood trays, yesterday evening, my husband noticed on the largest tray, the resin, along with the caps, have pulled up in the corner of the tray, can you tell me what is the best way for him to use or do to get something under that lifted resin, then do we put something heavy on it to hold it down til the resin is glued back down! Please help! It’s a surprise for my son who is currently deployed to the middle east!
You can try to put some two-part, five minute cure epoxy underneath there to get it to glue back down. However, I’m concerned it won’t work since resin didn’t stick the first time. It sounds like something is acting like a mold release and is keeping the resin from bonding.
Hi
I have used resin at the bottom third of tall shot glasses to embed beads jewels etc. The problem is that there appears to be fracture/crack lines just under the top of the resin where it meets the glass. I would like to do the same with a large glass bowl but worried about the appearance being spoiled by these cracks. Any tips? Thanks in advance
What kind/brand of resin are you using?
Hi I can’t remember the brand. It was from eBay. The type that comes in a kit with gloves syringe and a tiny bottle of hardening agent. Quite generic craft resin.
Based upon your description, it sounds like you are using a polyester casting resin. I would switch to an epoxy for next time. We have several in our resin category: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin
I want to make something that is the equivalent of a giant paper weight. Is there any way around making a mold? You said resin sticks to glass but what about metal?
Yes, it sticks to metal as well.
Hi Katherine!
I’m trying to make water feautures in a live moss terrarium using resin. How can I keep the resin from seeping through the layers of soil and rock before it cures? Thank you!!
You need to use something to act as a barrier. For example, resin won’t stick to wax. A thicker clear plastic could work in this case. Thin plastic wrap (like for food storage) might melt with the heat of the resin.
Dear Sirs.I ha purchse 4 sets of Maseal packets of 100gm each of Epoxy resin&Hardner at high cost fo various domestic works.i used half a bit of one set mixed properly&used for joining.arresting water leakage etc&worked well.After keeping for some months all 3 sets are not having softness &difficult to mix each other.Plz suggest simple methods how to soften epoxy&resin&make it a paste to apply as new packets,otherwise my investment for m seal will be wasted.Plz suggest some easy way to soften it before mixing both.tnx (acn)12-1-18
I haven’t worked with this resin and cannot make a recommendation. I would suggest speaking with the manufacturer.
I would like to make some resin bonded coasters with a paper insert and maybe a cork backing, is this feasible? and what would be the best way to go about it?
i have never done any resin products before so any help appreciated.
Yes Pete, this can be done. We have a few coaster tutorials here to help you: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/coaster
I just finished pouring a test block of resin into a empty wooden cigar box to see how my pieces would work – about 1 1/2 inches thick. (I am planning on creating a sea glass table top). I followed the mixing instructions to the tee and also was able to get all of the bubbles out with a blow torch. Everything looked perfect. However after returning about a hour later – I found three-four large cracks throughout the box. What did I do (or not do) to cause this to happen?
It sounds like your resin got too hot. What kind/brand of resin did you use?
Parks Super Glaze by Rust-oleum However, that makes sense as we were working outside under the sun and it was about 78 degrees that day
Yes, sounds like things got too hot. Do you have the option to work with it in the shade?
Hello… I have just tried my 1st DIY using epoxy resin and created a tea tray. But while trying to remove the bubble the resin cracked. Please can someone suggest how i now repair this crack
You need to recoat with another layer of resin, but you may still see the crack.
I am preparing a serving tray using a painted tray and 2×2 ceramic tiles that students have painted using sharpies and alcohol. The painted tiles have been modpoged on the colored side only and then a coat of mod podge deminssional magic has been added. Does adding a coat of epoxy to ceramic tile yield good results? Do the tiles need to be sealed? Also, do I need to glue the tiles down before adding epoxy?
I use stainedglass and always get bubbles under the glass and if I try to use a pattern and place glass in the resin it moves and makes a complete mess, can I first pour a bit of resin wait until next day then lightly glue the glass in place and pour more resin?
You can do it this way, but you will still get bubbles underneath the glass. You need to use something other than resin to glue your pieces down, preferably, a glue you can completely brush onto the back.
Hi, I’ve had a look through the feed and can’t find a similar question so apologies if this has already been answered. I am making resin pyramids with a mix of crystals, copper and aluminium shavings added. I’m using a silicone mould and following the instructions for quantities however the finished product does not look smooth. Some parts are lovely and shiny and some parts are rough. I’m not sure where I’m going wrong. This has happened on all but my first attempt! Naturally, the added materials sink to the bottom of the mould but I have seen others where they are more evenly spread throughout the whole piece. I don’t think these are poured in layers as I’ve seen those too and they look altogether different! Thanks in advance for your advice!
Hi Charlotte, we have a troubleshooting article here that may help you: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-troubleshooting-tips/
How would I use epoxy as a rub? To create a thinner epoxy fnish. More like a poly. I know there are different kinds of epxoy, but is there a type that takes longer to dry, or thinner mix?
Solvents like acetone and alcohol can thin resin.
Hi
I am having problems with my finished rings. I’m dealing my laser prints with mod podge and then using resin. But after some time the image gets discolored. Do you why that is and how do I stop the discoloration. TIA
Is the image discoloring or the resin discoloring?
Read through many posts not sure if I saw this above. I’m trying to make a heart shaped resin mold. I have a heart shaped piece of wood that I’ve hot glued corks onto and placed large nails around the edge to form “walls” to which I’m going to wrap wax paper/masking tape around to form a quasi mold. Then I’ll use an AL foil pan to press against it to make the walls firmer before adding the resin. I know I’ll be in for a fair amount of sanding but I couldn’t find an easy heart shaped container the resin won’t stick to. This heart is then being attached to a frame for hanging. Is this all crazy or does it sound possible.
I don’t think this will work for a mold. I’m concerned your walls won’t be sturdy enough.
Hi, I was wondering if I could use epoxy on all sides of a jewelry box by masking off a side at a time? I would pour and let cure, then move on to the next. Would the epoxy hold up on the vertical sides after curing? What issues do you foresee?
Thanks!
Yes, that will work well.
Hi im confuse about something. Well does it break if ypu drop an item made of epoxy resin?
It could break if it’s a hard curing resin. Otherwise, if it isn’t, it could dent instead.
What is the best wood stain to use under amazing clear coat epoxy?
Hi there. I will be using resin to cover my new porch with bottle tops. I was thinking of using plasticine in them to fix to the floor. But should I grout them down first as to use less resin? Also would this help with cure time and sinking resin?
I don’t know that I would use grout as it may trap bubbles, but I would not expect it to impact the curing time.
Hi I’m new to resin casting but I would love to make a table top for my caravan. My idea is little foam roses about 4cm in diameter, heads up in clear glass like resin. Do you have any tips on how to get it as near to perfect as possible? Meaning do I stick the roses to the grease proof paper and pour directly on top on them so the resin gets right in between the petals and what not? Thank you for your time!
Hi Naomi, I want to give you the best possible answer to your question and it’s the kind of question that I can’t answer properly in a blog comment. I would be happy to set you up for a 15 or 30 minute consultation call. If you want to send an email through our contact page, I am happy to respond with prices and availability.
I was wondering if epoxy resin will stick to textured glass? More specifically those microwave round glass turntables. The bottom is textured and I want to adhere a lazy suzan to the bottom. Anybody had any experience in this?
Yes, resin will stick to glass. Make sure your surface is clean.
Hi… I was wondering how to prevent dried flower from floating and any glitter from drowning. Maybe You know how to suspend it in the whole resin piece (like pendant ar earrings, only small things). Thank You for sharing so much advices with people 🙂
Hi Vi, to keep the glitter from sinking you will need to use one that is very fine. I like the Stampendous micro glitter. You can find it in our store here:
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/products/stampendous-micro-glitter
.
To keep the flowers from floating, you will need to pour in layers. You can see what I’m talking about here: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/button-bangle-resin-bracelet-tutorial/
Hello!
Very cool reads here.
I am wanting to make a custom cribbage board for my grandma. I have very little experience but am pretty good at getting what I done as long as I have a plan. My idea is to purchase a preglued round board. Sand, and stain and paint any game markings I need around the perimeter. Next lay pressed lilac in the center and then seal with epoxy. Then I would need to drill all of the tiny holes. I guess im looking for tips on if my steps seem to be the best order for my project and any potential issues i may run into.
Thank you!
Hi Brittany,
You have a lot going on here!
I want to help you with your project, and I think this situation is best suited for a one-on-one consulting call where you and I talk back and forth about what’s going on. I can set you up for a 15 or 30 minute consultation call. If you want to send an email through our contact page, I am happy to respond with prices and availability.
Hello! I would like to sticker bomb a cooler top and seal it with pouring resin. Do you know if resin can be used to seal plastics like that?
Hmm. I’m not sure the resin will stay stuck to that surface.
Hi, Im making a river resin table using palette wood. I have 2 challenges: 1- what to tape can i use to hold the mold, we dont have the special release tape usually used in epoxy and if found it will be very expensive .
2- I could not find polypropylene plastic to use as nonstick mold, what else can I use that do not stick to resin?
thank you for the help
You can try painter’s tape to tape your mold. As for the mold itself, if you can find something wax based, that may work. Resin won’t stick to wax.
Why is it so hard to clean up my mixing cups and spreaders and even my heavy rubber gloves after I use epoxy resin?
This stuff never seems to go away.
I use denatured alcohol and soak my mixing buckets in it but it always seems to be there. What’s the quickest easiest most effective method of eliminating epoxy residue??
Are you wiping the cups as well? I find I need to wipe out as much residue with paper towels, then use acetone on a paper towel to do a final wipe.
Thank you for enlightening us. Keep it beautiful!
Hi, I am using train for a art project and I am using seaglass to make a picture, and I was wondering if I need to spray the seaglass with something to seal it or anything like that
If the seaglass changes appearance when getting wet, then yes, you need to seal it. This works well: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/castin-craft-gloss-resin-sealer-spray
If I wanted to do an oil painting and mixed media and use resin as a protective topcoat in replace of varnish, which medium should I begin with? I do intend on gluing paper (mixed media) onto the painting but I’m not sure what kind of glue to use — any suggestions?
A clear-drying white glue is best. This one in our store works well: https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/ultra-seal-sealant-and-glue
Hello,
I have my eye on a decorative ceramic bowl that I would like to make into a vessel sink, but it will probably not be durable enough. Am I able to apply resin somehow to make it stronger/more durable for that purpose? Thank you so much!
-Kimberly
In my opinion, the resin isn’t going to make it stronger.
Hello! I am using epoxy resin to fill small glass bottles to create ‘potions’. However, the glass keeps cracking?! Any idea what is happening? The epoxy resin does get quite hot when setting. I use epoxy artresin by resin for decor.
Thanks!
Hi Sophie, I’m sorry to hear this is happening to you. This discussion in our forum explains why: https://www.resinobsession.com/forums/topic/resin-cracks-a-few-week-after-it-has-fully-cured/
I did a faux marble design on the wall using an acrylic paint and decided to coat the surface of the faux marble with epoxy resin, but instead of having a flat glassy surface I rather obtained a surface that appeared like a texcote surface. Please how do I apply epoxy on my faux marble and achieve a glass surface
I don’t know what you mean by texcote surface. Can you tell me more?
i guess he means “Texture Coat”….curious about ur answer 🙂 🙂 i want to coat an existing wallpaper
Great Tips! I was looking for something like this. I was actually not able to find the proper tips to use that resin. But, now your blog really helped me a lot. Thank you for such great and informative tips. Please do keep sharing.
Question, with epoxy resin adhere to a plastic bucket if I spray with mold release? Thank you in advance. -Walter
Yes, I would expect it to adhere provided the plastic bucket surface is clean.
There is some silicone in the fluid paint. We let it dry completely and wash the paintings with water. Should I wipe it down with alcohol?
Can you put resin in wood cracks? I’m looking to make a cool book shelf.
Yes, you can do that.
I have tried twice to cover my acrylic paintings with resin. Each time I clean the canvas and completely dry, level my canvas, and take all precautions for a clear coating. Each time my canvas ends up with pits in the resin after drying. What am I doing wrong?
It sounds like you may not be using enough resin. Have you checked with our resin volume calculator? You can input your numbers here: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-calculator
Thank you, I will double check! I appreciate the help.
If I want to inlay into a picture frame and cover with resin… What should i use to caulk the glass to the frame so the resin epoxy doesnt run through?
Hi Dana, try hot glue.
Hello. I am working on a tumbler cup. I needed to separate two pieces of vinyl, so I used clear sticker paper and there are large bubbles and you can see the outline of the clear paper. Any suggestions on how to fix this without having to redo the project?
I’m afraid I don’t. 🙁
Hi,
Can you put resin over flex seal in the spray can. It has a wonderful texture that I’d like to use for my son’s birthday present.
Pat
I don’t know Pat. I’ve never tried that.
I’m going to try out and who’ll let you know the outcome.
Oh yes, please do!
I’m going to try it and will let you know the outcome.
Ok, so I did the black flex seal over the stainless steel cup. The texture was amazing and in places there were some coverage that was not complete and it had turned bronze. But I liked the bronze peeking out so I left it that way. However, when I applied the resin the textured look that i was going for disappeared. My son loved it though, so I count it a win. Just wasn’t the look that I had hoped for. I would rather use black spray paint though because it’s cheaper and does not need to cure for 48 hours before you apply resin.
How hard resin is?can it break easily?
It depends on the resin.
Hi there,
Was wondering what i could use to coat resin so that it doesnt melt?
looking for any and all solutions.
Thankyou,
kirk
I’m afraid I don’t know of a substance that will work like that to protect resin from melting.
Hi there
Not sure if you already answered this question or not. I am making serving trays and would like to use resin on all surfaces (including vertical ones); can the resin be applied by brush or other tool to paint it on and get a strong thick, glassy, waterproof surface. Currently I am spraying on a glossy product from hobby lobby.
Any thoughts?? Thank you in advance
Hi Jill, yes, you can use resin for this purpose, but you need to do one horizontal surface at a time. Otherwise, the resin will drip off. A doming resin is what you should use. We have several in our store here:
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/doming
Hi,
What if I want to use the quick drying epixy resin available on amazon in a
martini glass? Will there be a reaction? Please help me in this. Secondly how do I create space for cube when the resin is setting. Won’t it destroy the resin clarity?
Regards,
Veda.
Thanks for posting the article, it,s really helpful to me.
Keep posting always!!
When pouring resin onto a polyurethane sheet, should you coat the polyurethane ? if so that’s best to use?
Thanks for this nice article. I didn’t know epoxy could be used this way.
Can you blow smoke inside resin while pouring mold?
Hi …. I would like to use the resin in a mold….. does the mold have to be a specific thing like wood or metal …. i am going to be making very small claw like shapes. Thanks so much
Hi Jenny, yes you need to use a mold specifically designed for resin. We have a large selection in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/molds
I have a question about sanding resin! I understand you should wet-sand and wear a mask, but *where* should you sand? Is it safe to do it in a well ventilated area inside? Would outside be safe? I don’t want to kill anyone. Thanks!
Hi Nocte, great question! Sanding in a well-ventilated area is a good choice.
To whom it may concern:
My daughter and I worked on an oil painting of a seascape.
I used your product “I enjoyed Enviro Tex Lite Acabado Brillante Pour on High Gloss finish”.
I put the gloss just over the ocean area to help the water look more like water.
I worked on the overall painting about 6 mths. The water part touched up the last month. It was dry to the touch for a few weeks when I put the gloss on. I had the affect I wanted. Loved the results. Used a hair dryer for any bubbles that popped up.
Just now finding out one should wait 6 mths to a year for oil paintings before adding varnish to a picture.
The problem is it started yellowing in some areas and more so in a lower section not seen. Not sure if it’s oil from the paint or mildew from not waiting longer.
The question is, is there a chemical solution to get that resin gloss off?
When I get it off and fix it, is it possible to put it back on again without it turning yellow?
Or if there anything else you could recommend, it would be appreciated.
Thank you for your time to answer,
Gail Lundblad
Hi Gail, I’m sorry to hear the resin over your painting has yellowed. I’m afraid there is no way to get the resin off without destroying your painting.
As for the yellowing, I’m afraid all resins are going to yellow with time. Resins with UV inhibitors and stabilizers help extend the time before yellowing occurs. However, things such as mixing off ratio (even though it still can cure without tackiness), putting over an improperly cured lacquer, excessive heat, and or constant exposure to sunlight can speed up the yellowing process. How long the epoxy will last in its clear state is very difficult to predict.
Hello I am building a teardrop caravan with plywood panels Should I use a grp type matting with the epoxy resin I need matting I think as the ply panels are butted next to each other especially on the curved areas
Does the surface/table need to be sturdy/not moving at all while resin cures? Will
shaking create bubbles in the resin that’s caused by loud music?
Hi Dee, I don’t know that the shaking will be enough cause bubbles, but if your table isn’t level, your resin isn’t going to cure level either. (And goodness, what are you doing that the music is that loud. Go girl!!)
Hello, I wanted to ask a couple questions about epoxy resin.
Would I be able to spray Epoxy Resin with a paint gun on a rounded “etched” glass surface?
Is the epoxy toxic?
Thank you!
Hi, unfortunately, resin isn’t suitable to use through a spray gun. As for its toxicity, it can be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not followed. We have several safety articles here: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/safety/
Hello, I wanted to ask if epoxy can be used with plastic or metal moulds and if not can I use a separating medium to avoid it sticking to the moulds.
Hello Mohamed, resin works great in plastic molds. We have some in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/molds/plastic
Katherine,
This is my 1st epoxy project. A 4′ x 4′ wall panel.
I’m using the epoxy between pieces of nicely grained wood. I used tuck tape around the edges of the pour area but I used masking tape to cover the surfaces of the wood to avoid accidents during the pours into areas that can be narrow at different points.
What will happen if epoxy gets on the masking tape? Will it bead up until it cures? Or something worse?
What containers do you recommend for the pour?
Something reusable.
Thanks
Hi Len, the resin will cover the masking tape. If this happens to you, you will need to remove the resin while it is gelled and somewhat pliable. Otherwise, the resin will cure over the tape and you won’t be able to pull it up.
For mixing, I like to use these cups: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/large-graduated-10-oz-reusable-mixing-cups-quantity-10
I am making coffee table from an old pallet. I have placed a board on the underside side, and want to fill the 1/2″ X 22″ slots with colored glass stones, and then pour resin in the slots. Once that has cured I want to pour resin on the top for a nice flat finish. What should I seal the wood with before I start to pour? What kind of resin should I use for the slots with the stones? For the table? I have never worked with resin before and am feeling a bit overwhelmed.
Hi Kristin, You have a lot going on here! I want to help you with your project, and I think this situation is best suited for a one-on-one Zoom call where you and I talk back and forth about what’s going on. A 15-minute call is $20.
If you are interested, please send a message through the ‘contact us’ page and I can get this going for you.
What plexiglass thickness is ideal to use for epoxy resin at a ratio of 2:1, I’m new to this and I failed my first project. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hi Ash, I’m not sure I understand what’s going on here. Can you tell me how you are using the plexiglass?
Hi! so i use a heat gun to get rid of bubbles in my resin products! (i make keyrings) but there’s still loads of tiny little bubbles any tips on how to get rid of them to make them super clear?
Hi Chloe, I’m sorry this is happening to you. The article will give you ideas on what else you can try: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-bubbles/
Question! This is my first time using Clear Polyester Casting Resin. I am trying to make balls and a bigger sphere with a couple different molds. – But I keep getting a texture, kind of like little folds just on one side, but no rhyme or reason to the placement of the texture . And I find that after filling the mold up and leaving it to cure, the resin has sunk down quite a bit- not making a ball. I am mixing and pouring the resin outside in the heat, about 90 degrees, and leaving the molds cover in an air conditioned studio, 72 degrees for a couple of days to cure. Any ideas of what is casing me to not have a smooth object?
Hi Jessica, it sounds like your resin is getting too hot. This article explains more:bbhttps://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/epoxy-resin-overheated-resin-is-hot-and-smoking/
I have made some coasters with epoxy resin however the centre of all my cured coasters have a ‘scuffed’ and dull look t them. what can i do to fix this!?
Hi Shannon, it may be that you need to use a harder curing resin. The Resin Obsession super clear resin and deep pour epoxy resin cure hard for projects like this. You can them in our store here:
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin
https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
I have a project in mind that involves imbedding whole books into the resin. If they are closed do they need sealing? And if one is opened to show a page, that one needs to be sealed but do the rest need to be?
Hi Vanessa, you will need to seal the entire book.
Greetings, I am currently hunting for anyone who can help me on a huge project.
I am working on a new office, it has a desk that wraps around 7/8 of the room in almost a complete square (the doorway is open of course).
I am looking to make a Resin/Epoxy top for it. I am just not sure how to create a mold/frame to hold the material in place to make the topper.
Not sure if I’m explaining this well enough, but any help on how to create a mold would be helpful.
Hi, I have hunted high and low and can not find an answer to this question. I new to this whole resin thing but have a rather ambitious project. I would like to put a stacked paper calendar into resin. It is basically a flip a day calendar from left to right. I am going to have to make a mold because I want to keep the outside shape but encase it in Resin. Would you suggest gluing the stack of papers together first then coating it for the Resin. Would that help remove it from a silicone mold? It would be like opening a hard cover book and encasing it open in resin. Would be grateful for any suggestions you can provide.
Yes Jodi, I would glue the stack of papers together before including them in resin.
I have a quick question! I’m making trays that have a Perspex insert that I’m covering in resin to seal them in and wondered if you could advise on any sealant for the tiny gap between the Perspex and the tray it sits in as the one I’ve tried hasn’t worked very well! Any advice would be great
I want to do a resin pour desktop, but I don’t want it to be too heavy. would 1/4″ plywood be an adequate base for a deep pour as long as I have a stable, level surface for it to cure on? I plan on doing one shallow pour to seal the wood top, then add some decorations and pour over them so it will be quite thick by the time I’m done.
Hi Shoshana, you can do a pour on a piece of plywood that thick, but you will need to create a stable supporting structure for it to rest on to serve as your desktop
Epoxy and resin sure are increasing in popularity. Do you sell epoxy for garage floor too, or just crafting?
Hi Clint, unfortunately, we do not sell epoxy for flooring.
Hi,
I am doing something wrong, can you please help?
I purchased glass for fireplaces etc. I want to place these glass pieces (to look like ice) inside an actual acrylic glass I have cut in half, pour resin over the “ice”, then glue the half glass to an 8×10 canvas. I want to resin everything except the half glass. My questions are:
Will the resin act as a glue with the glass chips when poured inside the half glass or do I have to glue each piece of glass to each other and then to the inside of the acrylic half glass?
Will the resin melt the half glass when I cover the glass chips (ice) with resin?
Do I resin everything on the canvass first, then glue the glass?
I would appreciate any assistance.
Hi Shelley, you mentioned you are doing something wrong. What’s going on?
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for your tips!
I’ve been experimenting with resin but am still new to it. I’m having a hard time on larger surfaces. When using only clear resin on a large surface, I find that sometimes it shows wrinkles or waves instead of being a glassy surface. Any tips? I’m wondering whether I’m over-applying the torch to get bubbles out. Thanks for your help!
Hi Kaitlin, it sounds like you may not be using a doming resin. This article explains the differences between doming resins and casting resins: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/doming-resin-casting-resin/
I’m doing a deep pour project that’s quite large (12″ x 18″ x 12″ deep) in 3-4 layers with deep pour crystal clear resin. My mold sides are 1/4″ Plexi glass. I have both a mold release wipe-on wax, as well as spray mold release from smooth-on… Which would work better for the easiest mold removal? For polishing the sides to ultra clear after cured and removed from mold, what process/products do you recommend? Any other tips/recommendations you’d have?
Hi all,
I am trying to create a bottle cap bar top and first want to glue the bottle caps to the bar top. I was thinking of using a layer of ova glue to place the caps onto and then to pour another layer on top of that to level everything out then pour the resin on top of the ova glue. The resin will also surround the glue as I have left 100mm around the edge but will the resin react with the glue?
Hi Rob, I’m not familiar with that glue, but I can’t say I’ve ever run into a problem with resin reacting to glue once it’s dry.
Hi CJ, epoxy for countertops is just like any other epoxy in terms of the ingredients. You can buy epoxy for countertops in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/surface. As for stains, I’ve never had that problem with epoxy. If you do find you can’t remove one, you will need to recoat the entire surface.
I am new to resin and have been experimenting with incorporating prints into my pieces by glueing them to various surfaces and pouring a coat of epoxy resin over top. This process has worked really well except in two pieces where the pigments in the prints have started to turn green. The resin for the two that are having this problem had been cured about a month before the discoloration occurred. None of my other pieces, poured at the same time or since, have had this happen. What could be causing this and if the others haven’t discolored yet, are they safe or is it only a matter of time before they discolor too? How long should I wait before they can be deemed “safe” and will not discolor? What can I do to prevent this?
I am printing my prints on an inkjet printer using regular white copy paper. I am using contact paper on both the front and the back of the prints before glueing them down and pouring the resin. I am using Ultra-Seal to glue the prints down and am then brushing on a rim of Ultra-Seal around the edges of the prints to further protect them. I have been using both MAS table top pro epoxy resin and Amazing Clear Cast resin (I’m not combining them in the same project but have been using either one or the other depending on the size of the pour, since the MAS is much cheaper than the Amazing Clear Cast).*
* As an aside, do these resin brands tend to be good regarding yellowing? I’ve not had any problems with them so far, but as I said I’m new to resin and I know all resins yellow over time, but some more than others. These brands had good reviews but is there a different brand I could try instead that is better in terms of yellowing?
I’m at a loss for what I could be doing wrong with regards to the pigments discoloring, as I’ve tried to be very thorough in protecting the prints. I’m scared to try to sell even the pieces I’ve done that haven’t discolored, in case they end up discoloring later on. Thank you so much for any advice you can provide!! I sincerely appreciate your expertise.