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This question comes from Debbie:
I am using resin for the first time and I followed the directions, cover with a box for no draft or dust and I am having a consistent problem. When I pour the resin on a ceramic tile that I have poured acrylic paint on on the edge of the tile the resin looks like it has rolled away ( rolled backwards). Before sealing with rising I allow the tiles to dry 2 weeks or more then I was off with soap and water any possible oil that could have been on the surface and let that dry 2 weeks and the resin still pulls away. What am I doing wrong? Any help will be greatly appreciated
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I am using art resin. I did an acrylic pour on a ceramic tile. It was a mix of acrylic paint, pouring medium, water and dimethicone. I let the tile dry for 2 weeks, then washed off any excess oil with soap and water and let that dry for 2 weeks. I mixed the resin 1:1 as on the bottle, stirred for 3 minutes (I set a timer), poured it on the tile, spread it out a little with a wooden craft stick, used a small hand torch to pop the air bubbles. I covered it with a box. 24 hours later took a peek and again pulled away from the sides. Like it is pulling back towards the center, not like not enough to make it to the edge. This is the second time I have done this and so far the same thing keeps happening. I have to pour a second time in order to cover the whole tile.
Thanks
Deb-
Hi Deb,
A couple of thoughts:
1. It could be the dimethicone. Even after thoroughly washing, there still might be a residue that’s causing the resin to slip away.
2. I have also experienced this problem when using ceramic tiles for my paintings. There is a small slope at the edge which makes it hard for the resin to stay on.Have you tried creating a tape dam to go around the piece before you pour? Use good quality masking or painters tape and go around the edge of your surface. Pour the resin as usual. Once the resin has cured, you can peel the tape away.
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Hi Debbie!!
I’m been getting into a lot of resin projects lately using ArtResin. It’s my go-to resin now! I haven’t run into this exact problem with ceramics but I have on a regular canvas using dimethicone. The ArtResin team has told me its because dimethicone just like silicone oil works directly against resin in the terms of the whole resin adhesion process.
However, I really love the cell effects it makes so I kept looking for a solution and I finally found one. It’s important not only to remove as much dimethicone residue from your piece as you can but also to take the extra step of sealing to create a barrier between the dimethicone or silicone artwork and the fresh resin layer. I would wipe down your piece with mineral water ( like Perrier ) soaked on a paper towel first to try to soak up any remaining residue, and then I would certainly apply a sealant. You could use a brush on sealant or a spray sealant – I might tend to choose a spray sealant, as a brush on sealant may further spread and distribute any remaining residue into your sealant. Make sure you choose a sealant that dries clear. Once it has dried, go ahead and resin as usual.
This is the best method I have learned from trial and error and the help of the ArtResin team.
Also, what Katherine is saying about making a dam sounds like such a good idea because of the ceramics texture it may not have enough tooth for the ArtResin to adhere to. Did you test that out? How did it go?? I would love to hear the results in case I do something like you in the future.
Here’s a link to a blog post I found helpful: ww.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/what-does-silicone-do-to-resin-besides-create-cells
Martha :))
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What brand of sealer do you use?
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Hi, I’ve been having the same problem with receeding resin on my coasters but I use alcohol ink. I’ve tried this 3 times and I’m about to give up on resin. I notice the slope but thought it couldn’t be that! Any more thoughts on the subject?
Tks,
E. C. -
By the way I did not use silicone!
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Are you sure you are using enough resin to fully cover the coaster? There is a math formula in this article that tells you how much resin to use: https://resinobsession.com/resin-art/how-to-apply-a-glossy-resin-layer-to-a-painting/
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New at this. Trying to make a PLASTIC 1920s-style sauce champagne glass look like it’s filled with champagne. How do I prevent the resin “champagne” from pulling away from the walls of the glass?
Anyone have directions / recipe for fake champagne? -
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Hi,
It hasn’t actually happened to me yet. But I just saw the comment about resin pulling away from glass. If you use a drip in method to fill a metal bezel (mainly sterling silver, gold and stainless steel) will it do the same thing? I have been chatting to someone and they remember reading this somewhere.
Thanks -
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Thank you Katherine,
When you say coating, do you mean metal plating? What kind of coating?
Thank you, it has been bugging me for a while. -
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Ah ok, so you would see the pulling occur straight away and not over a period of time? If you sanded the inside to be on the safe side the resin should stick and stay?
Thank you!!! -
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Great, thank you so much!
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I am trying to find a barrier that I can use to pour my resin that will give me a nice round line without flash. I want to pour the resin in multiple consecutive layers. Is there anything you can recommend?
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My art resin always pulls away from dudes no matter what. I did not use any silicone in my acrylic pour and it still does. Canvas or wood. Help. And can I add a second coat while still sticky without sanding
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Hi Ann,
Are you sure you are using enough resin? We have a resin calculator that does the math for you: https://resinobsession.com/resin-calculator/
Yes, you can add a second coat while the first layer is tacky.
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