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Ok so I am going to post a WHOLE BUNCH of questions. This is my first time doing a project like this.
So first of all, my goal is a gift for the gf. 12″x10″ (approximately) about 1 inch thick piece of wall decor. I wanted to have the live edges in the middle separated by about 4 1/4 inches of clear resin. In the resin would be an artificial sunflower I have, and at the bottom a small block with an inscription on it. Also wanted a maroon background to the resin (See question 3)
*Here come the stupid questions*
1 bark or no bark? I like the look of bark, but I’m not sure if it can be left on and if so how to clean it up enough that the resin sticks.
2 I want the sunflower suspended in the resin, the resin will be about 1″-1 1/4″ thick (The thickness of the wood the sunflower will be thinner) is this realistic? if so, how is the best way to do it?
3 I wanted a maroon back ground to the resin, I wasn’t sure if pouring a thin layer of maroon resin as the back-most layer would be a good idea, or just painting the background maroon later on. Opinions for the best look?
4 I’ve seen these projects poured both ways, right side up and upside down. What is the best way to pour it?
5 What should I use to build my box around the wood for pouring the resin?
6 What kind of finish for the wood? Or for the whole piece? I’m not very well versed in stains/seals
7 I don’t even know what else I need to ask yet, I have the wood, the flower, the resin, sandpaper for a 5″ orbital from 60-2000 grit, and a dream. Any problems you guys see, or things I need to know, or all the stuff I haven’t thought about yet.
Thanks in advance guys, -Josh
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Hi Josh,
I’m going to answer your questions referring to the numbers above:
1. I would minimize the amount of bark. It is likely to trap bubbles that you will have a hard time getting out.
2. To suspend the sunflower, you will need to cast in layers. Put the sunflower in a middle layer to make it look suspended.
3. I think it’s best to color the resin maroon. You can paint the back, but the paint may chip off later.
4. I like to do projects like this right side up. That way, I can see how things are going to turn out.
5. Acrylic sheet is my choice to build a box like this.
6. I don’t have any finish suggestions for the wood, but if you sand it down with a very fine sandpaper, you may find that you don’t need one.
7. Sounds like you are all set!
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8. Do I need some of that fancy casting tape to cast on acrylic boxes? Will it stick?
9. If I want to make colored maroon resin can I mix powdered pigments to make that?
10. If I pour it right side up and do that back layer in maroon how thick a layer would I need to pour to get a nice affect?
11. How long does resin need to set before I can pour a second layer?
12. Would somewhat smoothing the bark up with wire brush wheels reduce the chance of bubble getting trapped?
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8. Painters tape should work for this.
9. Yes, provided it’s something that is designed for resin. If it’s not designed for resin, you may not get the color you were expecting.
10. What effect are you trying to get with your back layer?
11. The resin needs to be in the gel phase before you pour the next layer, otherwise the two layers will blend. If your previous layer, though, is not cured before pouring the next layer, any heat production is additive to the next layer.
12. It might, but because of the nature of wood, bubbles are still a concern. You can fully dry it first, dip it in some resin, then let it cure on a piece of wax paper. That will seal bubbles in. Because the resin is in a thin layer, it should make it easier for them to come to the of the resin and escape before curing.
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I have made epoxy&wood tables and agree with all of her answers, Brava!
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