Using powder to tint resin is an easy way to add sparkle and color to your resin crafts. My favorite powders for resin are the Pearl Ex colors. They come in multiple hues plus are so concentrated. I will show you six easy tricks to color epoxy resin with Pearl Ex powder.
Tip 1: Brush powder onto your mold surface
If you brush the powder on very thinly, the end product will be just a hint of color on the resin. These blue disks were made with the same blue color of Pearl Ex. The one on the left was lightly brushed. The one on the right had Pearl Ex mixed in.
Tip 2: Brush more than one color into your mold
You can apply Pearl Ex to just one part of the resin mold or use different colors in different areas of the mold. For example, use yellow or gold Pearl Ex in the center of a flower with the petals a different color.
Tip 3: Add colored resin after brushing on the powder color
Use colored resin with the painted Pearl Ex technique in tip two for a different effect. I cast these leaves with Pearl Ex painted in the mold, blue on the left and gold on the right. The resin was tinted with Resin Obsession Bright Red Translucent pigment.
Tip 4: Add a contrasting colored resin after brushing on the pearl powder.
Paint on Pearl Ex, then pour in a resin mixed with a different color of Pearl Ex to add dimensions.
Tip 5: Remove some of the powder from the mold
If you have a mold with a deeply etched pattern and only want the Pearl Ex to be in the high areas of the completed piece, carefully use a wet wipe to clean off the high points of the interior of the mold. You can even paint in a second color of Pearl Ex.
Tip 6: Use the powder to color resin
Because Pearl Ex is a dry pigment, you can add it to the resin to color it. Add more to supersaturate it or less to give it a marbled effect. The blue charm on the left has more powder than the red-blue charm on the right. The small ovals have even less Pearl Ex powder. The same color Pearl Ex colored each sample.
And if you hate wasting your resin color powder, you can save it. After painting the Pearl Ex on, if you have too much loose powder in the mold, you can hold it over your trash can and tap the mold to have the loose powder fall off. Tap the loose powder off over a clean coffee filter. Then, pour it back into the Pearl Ex bottle.
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Originally written by by Kate Ledum
Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2023 Resin Obsession, LLC
When I try to use dry pigments/powder like this, as I am pouring in the resin, I find that it ‘picks up’ the powder in the bottom of the mold and moves it about. I have also tried mixing it into the resin to tint, then pouring, but sometimes I find it separates out and either sinks to the bottom of the mold or floats on top. Any tips for how to fight this?
Try to use less powder.
The first problem might depend on what your mold is made from. i find that this technique works best with silicone molds where the powder “clings” to the surface. Also brush it in and just use enough to cover the surface as any excess will move about.
the second problem might be to do with the type of resin. If it has very low viscosity and/or a long cure time then any powder or inclusions could separate out. Try changing your resin.
I am new to molding and casting. I have some very small brass stampings I want to make molds from, and have decided to use 3 and 5ml syringes to fill the molds at least halfway up. I will use the Amazing Casting resin which has a short open time of 2-3 minutes which includes the mixing time. Has anyone done this and had any problems with excessive air bubbles? I plan on making sure syringe is free of air on drawing up resin and stopping the fill before it reaches end of syringe. I’m also mixing two part resin in glass beakers with pour spouts so most of the pours can be done using the beakers. Any comments or tips will be appreciated.
I’m curious, why do you want to use syringes? Seems like an extra step.
I use syringes to make sure I have the most accurate amount of both parts. I do not have a scale. I get the liquid medicine dispenser syringes with a plug that fits into the bottle opening. Then I draw the parts with seperate syringes and measure into my mixing cup.
When using the Pearl Powder Colorant, I have found that my objects never cure as hard as the area without the powder. I made a pendant with alcohol ink and the last layer of my pendant I used the powder and it isn’t as hard as the other sections. Why is this happening? And this is every time I use the powder.
What kind/brand of resin are you using?
I used the EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy Resin.
I currently have some resin curing but popped out one that was particularly loose in the mold to have a peek since this is my first time using Pearl Ex and was a bit excited haha! The front looks lovely, not quite matte but definitely looks pearl in finish. My only issue is the otherside is beautifully glossy haha! I have mixed part Pearl Ex resin and some ink mixed resin with glitter to have some contrast as I dribbled them into the mold rather than poured. *I* might just be very fussy but for pendants does it really matter that the reverse is very glossy (much like if you just poured in clear resin or ink mixed resin)? Would mixing a touch of Pearl Ex with some clear resin and brushing it on the back give a pearl look like the rest and not go a bit odd? Sorry if this is a very obvious question and being a little bit picky unnecessarily haha!
Hi Yukari, this video might explain what’s going on: https://youtu.be/S6xlrNQDp_0