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Hello,
I am trying to coat various wood tables, from round, raw wood tables to upcycled rectangular tables with a 2 part polycuramine (Rocksolid from Rustoleum). I am using metallic pigments in the first pour and then applying a clear coat pour over the whole piece. The problems I am having include: uneven, “dripping” appearance on the edges, or the product not adhering to the edges at all in some places. I have babysat the items while they were curing, brushing the edges and trying to pour more right at the edge, hoping for better coverage, with inconsistent results. I also had trouble with curing time and was told by Rustoleum to roll the product and not pour it.
I am wondering these things: Is there a better, affordable product out that works well for pouring or rolling and will cover edges-maybe a product that is not self-leveling? If I do a roll technique rather than a pour, would I expect to have to do 2 colored layers for good coverage? If I cannot successfully cover the edges, what is a good way to prevent the product from running over the edge that I can finish it with paint or something else? I have heard to try tape, but just can’t think of how that would work–I would have to remove the tape and sand the edge which would then look dull? Please help!Frustrated! Thank you in advance for your advice!!
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Hi Sara,
What a neat project! I don’t have any experience with that resin, but question whether or not it is a doming resin. Instead, I would recommend the Alumilite Amazing Clear cast resin. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-clear-cast-epoxy-resin-16-ounces It is a clear, doming resin and is considered food safe when cured. I have confidence this product will adhere evenly to the sides of the table, even when dripping.
As for the resin not sticking, it sounds like something on the table is acting like a mold release. You need to get down to a fresh surface before trying the resin again. Is sanding an option?
I have always done similar projects by pouring and not rolling. I think rolling uses more resin. You can pour the resin, then use a flat sided scraper to level out the resin. (I don’t know what they are called, but you can see an example of one in this video at 1:15 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzCVP_omNRg)
Yes, you can tape the perimeter of the table and run the resin up to the edge. This is a doming resin, however, so if you are careful, it isn’t totally necessary. You will want to cover ~ 2/3 of your table, then draw the resin to the edge. You can see what I’m talking about in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrVj4JSpPzI If you do get it over the edge, you can sand it off. Is turning the table up on it’s side an option? If it’s a square/rectangular table, you can put it on its side and dome each side with resin too.
A second coat isn’t necessary unless you feel like you didn’t get good coverage. BTW, This post on our blog tells you the math on how much resin you are going to need for pouring over a surface. (It’s for a painting, but same concept applies) https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-apply-a-glossy-resin-layer-to-a-painting
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I have a twisted limb of the tree that I am trying to do glow-in-the-dark Epoxy on, I’m not sure how to tackle this. Any advice would be fabulous.
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@Kendra, I would treat it like I did in this post on how to resin a tumbler: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-glitter-and-resin-a-tumbler
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