Well, hi there resin novice! You’re in the right place. Starting with epoxy projects can be a little overwhelming. Don’t worry, I’ve got 16 years of resin experience, and I want to help you too. Here are the top 12 questions I get from those new to making resin jewelry.
1. Is resin dangerous?
In a simple answer, yes. But so can driving a car or cooking over a campfire. You should always take the appropriate resin safety precautions when working with any formula. At a minimum, wear gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. Some resins need special ventilation equipment and a respirator. How are you supposed to know if you are using one of those resins? Review the resin kit’s safety data sheet.
⭐️ BONUS: Besides having access to a resin kit safety data sheet, here are other things you should know BEFORE you purchase resin.
2. How does resin harden?
When you buy a two-part resin kit, you are buying a bottle of resin and a bottle of hardener. When mixed, a chemical reaction occurs, producing heat. This heat production allows the resin to cure.
⭐️ BONUS: When you need your cured project in a hurry, learn how to get your resin to cure faster.
3. Can I save extra mixed resin for later?
Wouldn’t that be nice? Unfortunately, the answer here is no. Once you mix the resin, it’s ‘use it or lose it’ for making jewelry.
If you don’t use your mixed resin, throw it away safely.
⭐️ BONUS: Here’s a list of ideas for the times you have leftover resin.
4. Do all resins mix the same way?
Not exactly. While the techniques of how to mix resin are the same between resin kits, each kit has its own instructions. Follow them exactly. This includes paying careful attention to
*minimum and maximum mixing amounts
*pot time
*cure time
⭐️ BONUS: If those terms don’t make sense to you, brush up on your resin vocabulary (without the awkward pop quiz)
5. Can I mix and match resins and hardeners?
This is a hard no. Resins and hardeners are specifically formulated to go with one another. You must use the two bottles that come together in your kit.
⭐️ BONUS: Learn more about what is resin and why you can’t mix and match kit bottles.
6. Don’t you go a little overboard on this resin measuring and mixing procedure? I see people on youtube using the bottle cap or eyeballing it in a cup.
You bet I’m crazy about mixing resin.
I’m sure winging it works…at least part of the time. But you want to be sure your resin is mixed EVERY time you’re making jewelry. Otherwise, you can end up with sticky resin.
⭐️ BONUS: Here’s how to clean your mixing supplies to reuse.
7. How do you get rid of bubbles?
Well resin beginner, the best thing you can do is prevent bubbles to begin with. That means you need to be careful in mixing. You aren’t scrambling an egg, but instead folding some frosting.
⭐️ BONUS: Here are my ten tips for getting bubbles out of resin.
8. The directions on the resin bottle said my resin castings would cure in 24 hours, but they are gooey. Do I need to let them sit longer?
You can, but it may not help. If your castings aren’t solid at the end of the cure time, it is unlikely that giving them more time will help them cure.
⭐️ BONUS: Here are some of my resin troubleshooting tips to help you the next time to cast resin.
9. Why are my resin jewelry castings tacky?
Ah, another good topic. You might want to read my post why is my resin sticky (which includes a link on what you can do to fix it.)
⭐️ BONUS: Here are the biggest problems beginners face when crafting with epoxy resin.
10. Can I bake resin in an oven?
I suppose you could, but it isn’t necessary provided your room temperature is warm enough. (But if you do this, don’t use it for food again and make sure the area is well ventilated.) Do not bake resin at temperatures of more than 150F.
BONUS: What’s the ideal resin temperature?
11. Can I use candy molds to cast resin?
It is so tempting isn’t it? But sadly, no. Plastic candy molds do not work well to cast resin. Silicone candy molds generally do better with resin, but you may not get a shiny finish when making your jewelry. If you want to try, make sure it is a mold you don’t ever care to use for candy again and use a resin mold release.
⭐️ BONUS: Don’t use soap molds with resin either. Just don’t.
12. Can I use anything to color resin?
This is a big fat NO. Resin HATES moisture. You need to make sure whatever you’re using is dry or if it is a liquid, use as little as possible. Colors designed for resin work best.
⭐️ BONUS: Here are five things you should never set in resin.
Want to learn more about resin jewelry making?
Then try my instantly downloadable ebook How to Make Resin Jewelry in Bezels. It gives you the essential details you need to know to make 15 resin jewelry projects — even if you have never worked with resin before. Buy now and get an email with a download link in minutes.
Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2023 Resin Obsession, LLC
Hi,
I am VERY new to the resin business, i.e. I haven’t even started yet, I’m just waiting on a couple of supplies in the post. I am planning on making jewellery, coasters, soap dishes and gift items etc.
I ordered some resin, however I ordered Polyester Resin by mistake, but I realise I might have been better with epoxy resin.
I have been very concerned when reading up on how explosive MEKP is, should I be concerned?
I have also been reading just how bad polyester resin is for your lungs etc. Is this all types of resin or just polyester?
I’m just wondering whether I should get epoxy instead and maybe sell the polyester stuff (as I haven’t opened it).
Any advice would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Kaye
My resin product says to put the bottles in water before what do I do ?
Hi Serenity, this article shows how to warm up resin bottles in warm water: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-mixing-temperature/
Kaye,
Epoxy resin is what I recommend for beginners. It doesn’t require some of the safety and ventilation equipment like the others do and is generally the easiest to mix. I don’t have any experience with MEKP as a hardener, but do know it can explode. The polyester resin we sell comes with its own hardener. I have used the product and have had no worries about explosions, but I never use fire or flame around my resins. Polyester and some polyurethane resins are the ones that require special ventilation to work with. The advantages to both of these is that they cure very hard. I don’t have much experience with polyurethanes except to say that I have tried using them but have found they are too difficult to manage in Florida’s humidity. (Polyurethane resin REALLY hates moisture — even in the air.) The polyester resin isn’t something I would recommend for beginners. It has a short pot time (6 to 8 minutes or so) and of course the fumes. When I work with polyester, I wear a NIOSH approved respirator and vacate my studio for at least 12 hours after pouring. The big advantage though with polyester is that it cures glass hard, so you can polish it with the appropriate compound on a buffing wheel and get a super bright, shiny, glossy finish. If you don’t think you will use the polyester resin soon, I would recommend trying to resell or sharing it with someone who may like it. We recommend only purchasing enough polyester that you can easily use within a 6 month period, so even if you keep it stored properly, it may not work when you go to use it years from now.
As long as you stay on top of it, acetone works fine. If you wait too long, and the resin kicks off, then use a heat gun to sftoen it up, and scrape the tools gently. It will come right off. Make sure that you don’t scratch the tools when you clean them, gnarled tools are a detriment to ease of productivity. Always scrape with something SOFTER than the tool, to avoid scratching it. Also, use a respirator when doing this with a heat gun, the fumes are toxic.
I’m looking to play with resin as well. I want to mainly make bangles to start. I have heard that epoxy resins aren’t suited for the thickness of chunky bangles and also that it isn’t as clear as polyester resin. Is this true? What would you recommend to a newbie trying to make bangle bracelets? I did purchase castin’ craft polyester liquid plastic and catalyst, but The bracelet never cured and stayed ooey-gooey. There are so many brands and so many reviews out there, that I am overwhelmed with deciding what to use. Thanks 🙂
Christi,
Great question! I always recommend beginners start with epoxy resin. It is generally the easiest to work with (you don’t have to wear a respirator like you do with polyester resin) and usually has the fewest curing problems (shouldn’t be gooey if you mix it right).
Epoxy resins can be as clear as polyester. I really like our Resin Obsession clear resin for this. It is meant to stay super clear for a long time!
Here is a link to where I break down the different resins along with pros and cons: https://resinobsession.com/Resin-FAQ/132/What-are-the-different-types-of-resin.html
The big advantage the polyester resin would have is that it cures hard enough that you can polish it on a buffing wheel.
If you’re still unsure about making a bangle bracelet, maybe try casting resin charms first to build up your confidence.
i made a bangle out of ‘gedeo resin’in a siligum casting, i made my self. i left it 24 hours and when i took it out of its mold it was very dull almost looked abit dusty when i felt the inside of the mold it was very smooth, as was the resin bracelet i used to make the mould.i dont understand why it was like this? it was slightly bendy when i took it out it hadnt completely cured but surely this would not affect the outside layer looking opaque!?
Emma,
Was the silicone mold made from a highly polished template? Even if the mold feels smooth, if the template wasn’t bright and shiny, you won’t get that finish onto your casting.
Did you use a mold release? If you do, make sure it is completely dry before casting your resin.
I have been wanting to make charms using small cake sprinkles. They keep sinking. What am I doing wrong?
Heather,
The sprinkles are heavy enough that they will sink in freshly poured resin. If you don’t want them to sink, you may want to wait and put them on you casting once the resin starts to cure.
Please help 🙁 ive worked hard and long on my resin jewelry and I have lines on my peices when I pop them out. They are fine lines from the molds. How can I buffer them out and make my jewelry shiny like glass? Also my resin has a yellow tint is this normal? Last but not least lol no matter what I do my resin has a billion microscopic bubbles the ones that rise I can pop and the big ones I can get but is resin supposed to look clear like water? And. What bail glue is fastest wnd what gloss is quickest? Ie; acrylic spray?? Thank you 🙂
iv bin doing a LOT of Goggling but i can never find and answer for what I’m looking for so i hope you can,
how (if possible) can you make a marble with resin? i have over 100 4-6 leaf clovers that i would like to embed in marbles, but i cant seem to find a way to do it without a flat side! if it is possible to do, how do i keep lines out of it(if 2 half’s are being glued) keep the clover positioned the way i like and centered (it may or may not be pressed) and get rid of or add bubbles?
hi there!! exactly how long do you let the mold release dry before pouring the resin? if i want a project with lots of glitter and color do i use a small amount of resin and a large amount of glitter? I LOVE ALL YOUR VIDEOS!!
@jacobsmomyatta If you’re letting the release air dry, 30 minutes should be fine. Otherwise you can go over the mold lightly with a heat gun to speed up drying. The resin/glitter thing is mostly a personal preference. I put the glitter on the exposed surface once it starts to cure, so it won’t sink. I like to put on a thick coat to make sure the surface is thoroughly covered with glitter. Glad to hear you find the videos helpful!
Hi,
I’m really new to resin jewellery but I’ve had a jewellery website for almost a year now selling charm bracelets and necklaces. I’m a bit clueless in the products I actually need to make resin necklaces and other jewellery, what are the products I need to make them, like hardeners and moulds and things. I’m really interested in moving in this direction and I love your website and figured you’d be the best person to ask 🙂
Thank you 🙂
Emily,
This article on our blog should help you get started with the basics: https://resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-make-resin-jewelry/
hi im wondering, i dont know if you did answer it but, how can i take out resin charms from candy mold that arent fexible….i know it can be complicated
Help..
I’m casting a large sphere and the resin started coming out of the top hole like a volcano … thankfully I put it in a container to cure so it’s in a small bucket.
I mixed equal parts, used glitter and used a liquid acrylic paint to mix.. I also mixed 2 different epoxy bottles?
What did I do wrong?
Thanks much,
Jane
Hi Jane, it sounds like your resin overheated. This article explains why and how that happens: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/epoxy-resin-overheated-resin-is-hot-and-smoking/
@Margo, you can try putting your mold in the freezer for a few minutes, then slapping it against a countertop to get the castings out. However, I have never had good luck getting castings out of candy molds, especially without using a mold release first.
I have been making jewelry with resin. I made a few pieces a couple of days ago, and didn’t notice until now that the epoxy on 2 of my pendants dried lop-sided. Any tricks to even it out?
Thanks!
@Daphne, you can sand the resin with wet/dry sandpaper underwater to get off extra. Start with 400 grit and work your way down to something finer.
what causes epoxy resin to yellow. Im looking at making a sphere by pouring the resin into an old christmas ornament and then putting a diode into it to make it light up. Ive done this once with an epoxy resin i picked up at a hardware store i need more than 16oz its a 3 in sphere, and it turned yellow. i was going to use this sphere for my project but as i was soldering one of the diode pegs snapped off so i have to completely recast and would like to get the crystal clear effect im looking for
@Catrina,
You need to start with a jewelry quality resin. The hardware store resins are usually designed to adhere stuff together, fill in holes, etc. They are less expensive than jewelry quality resin, but it’s because they aren’t as pure — hence the yellowing.
Hi! I’ve been doing resin jewelry for a few months now. I think I am doing it wrong! I use epoxy (I think) (I’m not sure if I can post the brand lol) what is the “texture” that the piece should be? When my piece is dried it’s not sticky but it is flimsy, should it be like this? I’m beginning to get discouraged 🙁
I am sooo new to this and I have scoured the web for answers about how to clean my resin cups after mixing. I never found an answer so I threw them out! I don’t want to have to do that everytime so I need help! How do I clean those and how do I clean my mold?
Thanks!
Check out this video on cleaning your cups and brushes. It works great for getting it off your hands too! https://youtu.be/cyCZqda5nB0
@Samantha,
Every resin is a little different. Epoxy resins don’t cure very hard, compared to other resins, so it may be flimsy or rubbery when it’s demolded, especially if it’s a thin pour.
@Nicole,
While your cups are still wet, wipe them out with acetone. Wear gloves while doing this.
Hello, I have a few newbie Q’s please: I am very interested to learn how to use resin – is it an expensive hobby in terms of equipment & supplies? I am particularly interested in encasing dried flowers. You say resin hates moisture – but is there anyway to encase fresh flowers in resin without losing the flower detail? Also, by any chance do know of anybody doing these types of classes in Ireland? It is difficult to find anywhere that holds classes for health & safety reasons. Thank you 🙂
@Lucie, I think resin jewelry making is much more affordable to get started doing versus metalsmithing. Here’s a tutorial on our site about embedding flowers in resin jewelry: https://resinobsession.com/Resin-Tutorials/229/How-to-make-a-resin-pendant-with-dried-flowers.html Unfortunately, I don’t know of anyone teaching resin jewelry making classes in Ireland.
I to am interested in a paint on epoxy or resin for dried leaves used in floral arrangments, what would you recomend? thanx
Hi Mona, we have an article about painting on resin here: https://resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-paint-on-resin/
I like this post, enjoyed this one regards for putting up.
I believe this web site has some very great info for everyone. “Dealing with network executives is like being nibbled to death by ducks.” by Eric Sevareid.
I have a question … I am making jewelry with Castin Craft Resin, and I have tried their “Easy Cast” as well. I have tried a bunch of variations but I always end up with the same issue. The surface of my castings is sticky, or takes and holds fingerprints. I have tried different kinds of molds, experimenting with different amounts of catalist, up to 20 drops per ounce … and I still get these sticky castings. Is there a different product you can recommend? I have some pre-made molds and my own silicone molds, I seem to have the problem on the air-exposed side no matter what mold I use, either. I have a workaround, that works for smaller pieces, I dip them in poly urethane and for the most part this works, but sometimes they get sticky again later on. Any suggestions you would have would be welcome.
Hey there! I have a couple quick questions about casting before I begin. I want to make sure I do it right because this stuff is expensive!
I have a silicon mold prepared of an armless human bust which I plan to cast in resin. First of all, the amount of resin I will need to fill the mold is approximately 24 ounces; how many drops of catalyst would you recommend me mixing into the resin before pouring?
I also have a question about suspension. I am going to be suspending flakes of ash in the statue; will ash sink easily or can it be mixed into the resin? If it can be mixed, should I mix it pre-pour or allow it to set slightly in the mold? (preferably the latter as I think it would make a nicer effect).
Thanks for all the help!
@Lino
I don’t know what kind of resin you’re using, so I would suggest consulting the manufacturer to see what they recommend. I would suggest mixing your ash in ahead of time. Once the resin starts to cure, it will be difficult to introduce the ash without introducing bubbles.
Hi i really like this site its always helpful. Im using resin alot lately , creating pendants. I have been using ice resin in molds & bezels.
I have been gluing on bails, but id like to use screw in bails but i cant seem to find anywhere to help with this.i dont have a drill and i tryed to embed eyepin in the piece but it looked crap. please help!
@Lisa, there is a video about this on our youtube channel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fW3nZmbQjI
Hello! I’m working with silicone resin and I have recently made dome shaped gems out of it. However when I painted on another layer to try and make it look shiny, all it did was make it look white and filmy, did I apply too much?
@Kyla,
So that I’m clear, you made gemstones out of silicone, then tried to put another layer of silicone on top?
Hi,
I need to know what type of ventilator I will need to work with polyester?
Also If I desire a mold of exact measurements, but do not have the liquid silicone, what should I use?
I need a 2.75″ x 5.5″ x .25 to .33″ thickness.
Thank you,
@Tom,
For polyester resin, you need to wear a NIOSH approved respirator for fumes. To get a mold to your specifications, you will need a template that size. You will then need to use silicone to make a mold of that template.
what about cleaning up? can you rinse resin that is still “liquid” down the sink? or should you invest in a ton of throw away stuff?!
@Kristine, I wipe out/off my utensils with a disposable paper towel. I then use acetone and paper towels to clean off as much resin as possible. Finish by washing your utensils with a good detergent such as Dawn dish soap.
I’ve never done anything with resin, and would like to start. Iwas going to make some things for my sculptures and I wanted to know if, once it has cured, is it safe to bake resin in an oven? Such as high as 275°F?
@Meagan, you will need to check with the specific manufacturer of the resin you want to use. The answer is most likely not.
Can I use a Sharpie or Copic markers on the resin and when I pour another layer of resin will the resin disintegrate the ink?
Thanks.
diana
@Diana,
Good question! I haven’t had a chance to try this out yet, but I would expect the answer to be yes.
I’m looking at developing some childrens toys out of resin, how safe is resin after it has been cured?
@Lisa, in general, cured resin is very safe. I probably wouldn’t use it though for children three and under since they might be tempted to put it in their mouths. I would also check with the specific manufacturer of the resin you intend to use to be sure.
@sarah, Yes, dried flowers should be sealed first. If they are not sealed, they will either take up ‘water’ stains from the resin, or the color will bleach out.
You may have already answered this but I was wondering if all dried flowers should be sealed with an acrylic spray before being embedded within the resin? What will happen if they are not sealed first?
Hi, Im pretty new to making resin jewellery and want to make bangles. I see some bangles have a colour on the inside..is this painted on after the bangle is made..and if so what paint product should I use? Also I have a clear silicone mould for my bangle but want the glitter flakes to be suspended evenly in the resin..and not all sink…how do I achieve this…do I have to do it in layers?..and if so will the lines show?….many thanks
@Jirral, you will need to color the resin before pouring. We have several options on our colorant section: https://resinobsession.com/Colorants.html To make sure your glitter doesn’t sink, you will need to mix in some of our microglitters. You can find them here: https://resinobsession.com/ItemPage/8864/Stampendous-Micro-Glitter.html This tutorial on our blog should also help you: https://resinobsession.com/Resin-Tutorials/286/Button-Bangle-Resin-Bracelet-tutorial.html
Hi, I’m still having a terrible time getting a flawless surface on resin I’ve had to sand (to remove mould marks). I’m in the UK so not able to use your spray, but the spray varnishes I have tried I find hard to apply evenly without sputters or drips. Would really appreciate any suggestions!
Gedeo varnish (am using Gedeo resin) never seems to cure properly and goes cloudy and tacky when worn next to skin.
Currently trying sanding through the grades, then Turtlewax scratch remover, then a polishing wax. Surface feels amazing but hasn’t regained full transparency. Next step – buffing tool on the dremel, and if that doesn’t work taking it back to sanding but increasing the grade (only have up to 1500 at the moment)
Resurfacing with another coat of resin – this should be the best & simplest approach in theory, but every time I try this it cures with missing patches and lumpy bits (I cover it to minimise dust but it always seems to bobble anyway). Seems to happen whether I dip the piece or paint on a thin layer.
It feels like I’m asking the impossible as all the guides and info I find online suggest that everyone else has a solution – either buffing (though opinions are divided on whether that works with epoxy!) or re-surfacing – but I can’t get either technique to work for me! I’m not sure there’s anything left you could suggest but if there’s even one tip I’ve not thought of I’d *really* appreciate it! 😀
How have you go on Erin? I’m in the exact situation. I would love to know if you found solution and the perfect solution (with UK products).
@Erin, I’m not familiar with Gedeo resin. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer and seeing what they recommend.
I am interested in using photographs to embed in my resin pieces. I am having a hard time reducing the size of the pictures to fit into the molds and bezels I’m using. Any tips on tools or websites for cropping tools to shrink down the pictures without losing the details of the picture?
@Candice, I like to use picmonkey.com There is a free version of the web based service that should allow you to do what you need.
Hi,I have one problem with my resin jewelry. After 2-3 months the resin looks more yellow and wrinkly, how to avoid these process?
@Antonia, it sounds like it may be the brand of resin you are using.
I just started using epoxy resin and everything has turned out pretty good so far. Except for have tiny little bubbles that are always there no matter whAt I do and the surface of my pendants are always opaque. I did some googling and found out about the sealer gloss spray so u ordered that and gave it a try and it’s pretty terrible. Makes everything even more frosty looking unless I do a million coats. And then once it is shiny like glass….. It holds finger prints so as I’m adding bails….days later…. I’m ruining my pendants bc the gloss spray is taking on my finger print. Any suggestions on getting the surface glassy? I tried doing the new layer of resin…but it drips and runs no matter how thinly I do it and then my pendants are glued to the sheet I have them drying on.
@Amanda, I would suggest trying our Novus polishing kit: https://resinobsession.com/ItemPage/8724/Novus-resin-polishing-kit.html
I am having a hard time finding bangle molds that are what I want- so I did find some bangles to make molds out of that I like the only thing is they are slightly small is there any way to enlarge a mold when making it? thank you so much
@Dawn, unfortunately, you are going to have to find a larger template to make your mold from.
Hi. My first attempt was a 2cm bangle with a silicon transparent mold and epoxy resin. No bubbles! But all the hydrangea petals turned greenish and lost their purple color. Does it depend on the brand ot should I have sealed the fresh and real flower with anything?
@Bruna, you will need to seal the petals first. This tutorial on our blog should help: https://resinobsession.com/Resin-Tutorials/229/How-to-make-a-resin-pendant-with-dried-flowers.html
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for quick reqponse. I will try as you suggested. Does a doming rasin meams just put it in center and let it spread all by itself?
@Poonam, it does, but you have to use a resin designated as a doming resin. A doming resin will be thick enough that it will (hopefully!) stay on top and not run over the sides.
Hi,
I used Epoxy Rasin to polish my Polymer Clay Jewelry as I wanted them to have glass like finish on a piece I made for a friend. It is cured well but it is having patches when it dried and streaks of the brush though I used a very soft brush to polish and patches on the pices just wasted it. 🙁 what I did wrong?
@poonam, I would try again, but not use the brush next time. Drip a doming resin on and allow to cure. The Diamond Glaze may be a good choice for you to use as well. https://resinobsession.com/ItemPage/5386/Diamond-Glaze.html
i am using polyurethane resin. the surface of the resin after drying is sticky. Plz help me to get over this problem
@rahesh, It sounds like you have too much moisture — either in the mold our your environment
Thank you Katherine for valuable reply.
I would like to know how exactly the moisture affects the resin to get sticky after drying it in oven at 60 degree for 2 hrs. Is there any chemical reaction happening between PU resin and moisture. Usually excess moisture leads to the formation of bubbles in the dome.
If you’re talking 60 degrees F, that won’t affect the resin at all. It’s not warm enough.
@Rahesh, I don’t have any experience working with polyurethane resin in that situation and afraid I can’t comment.
60 degree Celsius
Hi there! Just wondering, how long to you have to use the resin once the bottle is open? Does it go off quickly?
Thanks 🙂
@Tamara, you need to use the resin in the stated ‘pot’ time. Each resin is different, so check with the manufacturer as to what they recommend.
Hello 🙂 I have been looking, but haven’t been able to find anything on how to make trolling or European style beads using resin? I recently got a bracelet that i want to make some for. preferably my own mommy milk ones but not sure the best way to go about it
@Tammy, Since beads to fit those style bracelets need a large opening. You will need to create a mold and cast your own resin beads.
Hello I’ve been trying to make transparent coloured gems with Castin Craft Polyurethane Resin with a resin dye and a silicone mold, first attempt I put blue and yellow in and when it hardened it turned brown, then I put just blue in and it turned pink. What am I doing wrong?
@Devon, are you sure it was a polyurethane resin?
@tammy. I have been looking for the same thing. I don’t want to send my milk somewhere since I produce so little. I haven’t figured out how to get it to mix with resin yet though. Have you?
@Katherine Swift, sorry I meant Polyester resin.
@Devon, did you include anything else besides dye in the polyester resin? What did you use for a mold?
@Katherine, no, just the catalyst that it came with and used a silicone mold and left the residual resin in the plastic mixing cup, it also turned brown and pink.
@Devon, it sounds like the resin is reacting with the dye. What brand dye did you use?
Hi there
I’ve been using easy cast a two part resin and im looking to make it look like milk. I cannot for the life of me find the right colorant to add to make it look like milk
@Grace, I would suggest using the Castin’ Craft opaque white pigment. https://resinobsession.com/ItemPage/5616/CastinCraft-White-Opaque-Liquid-Pigment.html Add just a tiny bit so it looks more milky than solid.
Hello I still have problems to get a high gloss finish, instead I used, abrassive sheets and then Novus I can’t get te gloss I see in most of the pieces showed, could you recommend me please a tutorial or another polishing pasta or technique? Thanks in advance!!
Hello, I have been using pebeo gedeo glazing resin, after two days of dry time I put some water on a cloth to wipe a keychain charm and the resin immediately turned foggy. I would hate for a charm to be destroyed if introduced to rain/water. Since I am new to resin is this a normal reaction?
Thank you in advance
@Kelli, it could be. I don’t have any experience with Gedeo resin. I would suggest contacting them directly for tech support.
Thanks katherine, do you have any recommendations on what brands of doming resin to use for jewelry.
Love this site, thanks!
Never mind found my answer on your site 🙂
Hi Katherine,
I’m just about to start my journey in resin jewelry. I’m hoping to use collage work and prints in metal bezels. I need the resin to be completely clear as to see the artwork I will be putting in the pendants/rings/etc.
My question is what resin would be best suited for this kind of work? As well as – would the prints have to be sealed to ensure no ink bleeding? If so, what sort of sealant should be used when working with paper and resins?
Thanks so much and sorry to be a bother! This website is wonderful!
@Sarah, I would suggest using the Resin Obsession super clear resin. This tutorial on our blog shows the techniques you need, including sealing papers before using them in bezels. https://resinobsession.com/Resin-Tutorials/140/How-to-make-a-resin-pendant-using-a-bezel-pendant.html
@Katherine Thank you so much! I can’t wait to get started!
Hi Katherine,
Do you have any recommendations to bond/glue the resin to itself?
Thanks,
Emily
@Emily, some of the same mixed resin will work great as an adhesive to glue two pieces of resin together.
Once a sterling silver bezel cup is finished with resin and it is hard, can it be worn in the shower everyday?
Thanks
@Denise, it depends on the resin. If it cures very hard, you are probably okay.
“8. The directions on the resin bottle said my resin castings would cure in 24 hours, but they are still sticky (or worse yet, gooey). Do I need to let them sit longer?
No, unfortunately, if your castings are still sticky at the end of the cure time, giving them more time will not help. ”
It helped mine… After 24 hours, they were still sticky (and one piece was bendy) – but after 48 hours, they had all set perfectly. I’ve read that my cold climate could have caused this…
@Ad, glad to hear extra time worked for you. Yes, if your room was cold, it will take longer to cure, but if improper measuring or mixing was the problem, extra time won’t help.
Hi,
I am new to resin and am still finding my way through some of the problems. I need some help in casting yarn in resin.
I have tried casting some yarn (for knitting) in epoxy resin and found out that the colours runs rather badly. Like my yellow yarn turns into a very dark yellow ochre. How do I prepare my yarn to prevent the loss of colours? I will like to keep the vibrancy of the colours.
Or could it be Im using the wrong resin? Im using epoxy resin now. Shall I have use ICE resin or cold resin? and can I still use the ICE resin on top of the epoxy resin?
Hope the experts can help me out.
Thank you! Stellah
What kind of help are you looking for?
Hi there,
It’s been 24 hours since i made my resin jewellery but it’s not fully cured yet, it’s still gooey and sticky but it’s in the solid ~ liquid form. Any ideas what is happening? I’m residing in Singapore so is it the weather problem? I follow my guide to mix 3 parts of epoxy resin with 1 part hardener and i mixed them till it’s clear hence i have no idea what went wrong. I’m a beginner in resin crafting so i hope you’ll give me advices or tips. Thanks!
Hi, this article should help: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-troubleshooting-tips/
This might be a silly question but I’m allergic to fake silver or gold and well I’m looking into using sterling silver bezels into making them into rings or pendent I can wear, can I put resin on them or does it have to be a special kind?
Resin works very well with silver bezels.
When using dried flowers or other small, lightweight objects in my resin molds, how do I prevent them from floating and changing position while the resin hardens?
I would suggest pouring your resin in layers, adding the flowers to the layer you want it to stay in.
Does baked Polymer Clay bleed in resin?
I haven’t worked with baked polymer clay and resin, but what I have read, the answer is no.
Hey!
I am relatively new to using resin also. I make stud earrings with emojis and other designs. Sometimes when the design has a white background there is a little discoloration/staining that is visible through the dry resin/finished earring. I use rubber cement to attach the earring post with 110 lb gloss paper that has the print on it. Do you know why this happens? Thanks!
Ben
It sounds like you need to seal the papers first. I like to use at least two coats of a clear drying glue. This video on our you tube channel should help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6DB8uAfecY
I cannot for the life of me find any information on working with very porous materials. I have these wonderful leaves I’ve been using and even if I am extremely careful they do not dry flat. Since they get wonky I have an even harder time with the next several layers. I need them to be necklaces so these paper thin leaves need to be at least a quarter inch thick. I have silicone mats but every single one I’ve found has a dumb woven pattern in it or are so overpriced I can’t justify it. I thought your store would sell these since not everyone pours in molds. My guy surprised me with these mats so I have to use them but my question is how do dome a new skeleton leaf and not get mat texture on the back of the leaf? I need to be able to peel them off and dome more layers. Would parchment paper work? I also seal my orchids in the casting craft resin spray and find they still change color no matter what brand resin I use. I’ve used epoxys and polyesters and ice resin. I’m going to try triple thick and see how it goes. I don’t have time to sand and sand and sand.
If a texture appears on the back after you remove it from the back, covering it with another layer of resin should hide the pattern.
I should add, I have my orchids covered in silica for several days and then spray a couple coats, let dry over night and then pour resin. These are the hardest to do because I just want to coat them evenly and not flatten them. The resin goes everywhere and pools where it shouldn’t even if I am careful. I’ve tried so many different ways to pour, to paint, to just spray it? I have no idea how to get them to look nice and keep the color.
I did a series on drying flowers in using resin a year ago. A link to the articles is here: https://resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
The pattern was still showing through since I poured through a skeleton leaf it filled in the back with the texture of the mat. So even with another layer of resin you can still see it 🙁 Are there any other surfaces I can dome on and peel off?
A few ideas: wax paper, masking tape, freezer paper
Also, the orchids are drying nicely its the sealing part thats hard. No matter what I do it always cracks when going through the many layer process of the resin coating. It also tends to want to gather in the dip and not the leaves. I know gravity is pulling it down. I’m starting to feel like just coating the flowers (not pressed) is a lost cause. I have some of the orchids to show soon on my Facebook page.
Hello-
Can you please recommend the right way (and product) to wrap human hair around a grooved silver ring (for a keepsake) and make it water-proof? Will the resin act as glue to adhere the hair to?
Thank you.
Rachel
I don’t have any experience using hair wrapped around a ring. Yes, the resin will act as a glue and adhere the hair to the surface of the ring.
Can you make your resin jewelry ideas ahead of time? Like I don’t have much to make a necklace yet but I have the resin and glitter and other things. So can I make the pendants and stuff and in a week or so make them into necklaces? Or is it a bad idea to do this?
If I understand you correctly, you want to make the resin pieces now, but use them in a design later?
Yes. Sorry. I wasn’t sure how to explain it. 🙂
Hi, I am using polyester resin right now but I keep having the same problem over and over again, and that is that when I cast it the things I put inside generally lose their colour., they fade, a lot. Is there some way to keep this from happening? Thank you!
I forgot to say that the things I put in it are generally leaves or petals. 🙂
Are you sealing your items before adding them to the resin?
sealing them? How should I do this? Thanks!
I wrote a series of blog post about using flowers in resin. There is information about how to seal them, among other things, at this link: https://resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
Thanks!
Hello all, I’m just starting to get into the technique of making resin jewelry and I’m so excited about the capabilities! While I’ve been experimenting with different things, I cannot seem to find any information on mixing liquid patina paint with Ice Resin for color… Is this a toxic mix? I realize patina paint is for metal, but some colors are so beautiful that I’m curious as to what would happen if while mixing the Ice Resin, I added a few drops of the patina paint? Has anyone tried this before? I wasn’t sure if this is the correct place to ask such a thing, I’ve just found this site to be the most informative so I figured I’d give it a shot… I appreciate any guidance I can get 🙂
I haven’t tried that, so unfortunately I can’t comment as to whether or not it work work or if it is safe.
Hey I have used it many times. It turns out opaque. Have you ever tried marbling with nail polish on top of water? You can get that look if putting resin in a bezel. It also mixes well. The metallic ones were a little harder to control though. Hope this helps!
Hi, my name is Aline and um about to start on the resin world. I have 2 questions… Can I use cake silicone molds with the resin? I saw online some pendants with flowers so colourful that it seems it wad not dry flowers. How does that works? Thank you!
Yes, you can use cake silicone molds for resin. Be sure to use a mold release and don’t use them for food again after using them for resin. We have several blog posts on how to use dried flowers with resin: https://resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/
I’ve started experimenting with casting epoxy resin, and can confirm what recent posters have said. I make my own silicone molds and the epoxy pops right out once it is cured – and I don’t use any release agents.
Silicone is similar to epoxy in that you mix two parts together and it cures/solidifies. For what I’m doing, I’ve been using pill blister pack strips as masters, making a duct tape bund around them, then pouring the silicone in to get the depressions. You get perfect pockets in the siliconeonce to peel it off.
Hi
I’m working with polymer clay at the moment but want to add resin to my pieces and have a couple of questions.
How can I bond the clay to the resin
Can I fire a mixed resin and polymer clay piece.
Loving your site so much
Yes, resin will bond to clay. No, you will not want to fire the clay after applying the resin.
Hi! I ordered a piece of breastmilk jewelry, and there is excess resin all over the bottom of the ring. In addition, the edges are very rough. This is the second time I’ve had issues with this particular ring (The first being sticky residue after washing my hands once – learned my lesson!!). Is there anything I can do to remove the resin on the bottom of the ring and smooth out the edges?
Thanks!
So that I can best help you, do you have a picture you can share?
I use a Polyester Resin, Clear Casting . I’m new to making necklaces, bracelets, earrings etc. I need to make sure this stuff will not be a health hazard to my buyers.
Cured resin is generally not a problem for many people.
I am wondering if there is a resin option that will not cure with a domed top, but rather will dry flat. Basically, I want to seal a photograph and top it with a clear glass cabochon that will be bezel set – so the resin part would need to be flat. (Or maybe you know a better way to absolutely seal a photograph against any danger of dampness?) Thanks!
Hi Judy, I think sealing the photograph in resin is an unnecessary step if you are going to use a glass dome cabochon. A couple of layers of a clear drying glue before applying the glass should do you fine.
Thank you for your speedy response, Katherine!!
hi im wondering if i can dome epoxy resin on top of a flat stainless metal? it’s hard to find bezels here in the philippines so im planning to punch stainless metal sheet and use it as a flat bezel.. will the resin cure and stick on the metal? or should i spread some glue on the metal first?
Yes, that will work. I would lightly sand the surface of your metal first to make sure the resin has a clean surface to attach to.
thanks for your quick response.. will the cured resin not detached? or do i need to put some glue before pouring the resin on it?
As long as the surface is clean (why I recommend the sanding), you should be fine.
Hi Katherine, I had a mold maker tell me that resin is hard on the molds and I should use polymer clay. Is this true? I never used polymer clay but I sure love my resin. Thanks very much. Mary
Great question! Over time, resin can cause microtears in silicone molds that can wear the mold out quicker. That’s one of the reasons I recommend using a mold release. If you are careful, I would expect molds used for resin to last as long as those used for polymer clay.
Hi Katherine, it’s my first time on here, so i cannot find anywhere else to ask this question. Sorry, but i am doing well with resin, except for one thing, I am trying to find a paint that will spread into the resin, which is difficult because of the texture. So far I have tried , acrylic paint {too thick) Alcohol ink ( just covers and colours) acrylic alcohol ink ( nope) marbling paint, metallic paint, the list is endless! I am getting frustrated to be honest. I know most people don’t want this effect, but i need it to look like ( the shape of a foot) inside the resin, or on the edge. And no i am not joking 🙂 please can you help?
Have you tried colorants specifically designed for resin?
Hello, I have been doing research on resins for about 2 months. I have learned a lot from your site. So much great information. But I still have so many questions.
I want to use resin for two main reasons; to make bangles for girls and pendants with my sea glass.
I need them to be hard so I assume I need to use a polyester resin. But I have no experience with resin at all. I know your biggest suggestion is to start out using epoxy as it is the most forgiving, but I don’t like that it doesn’t cure as hard. So I’m not sure what to do? Any suggestions?
Have you considered the Resin Obsession super clear resin? It is meant for molds and will cure quite hard. https://shop.resinobsession.com/products/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin-for-jewelry
Hi there!
I just cast my first bit of resin and it went mostly ok, but I had a few questions:
1. I tried to put a small dried flower in the mold and it kept rising to the top so it’s not totally smooth and some of the flower sticks out. How do I get the flower to stay submerged?
2. I tried casting some small quills from my hedgehog that he shed, and they rose to the top and floated to the edge of the mold. Is it normal for items to float and migrate during the curing process?
Thanks!
What you are describing with the flowers and quills happens with lightweight items. You will need to pour your resin in layers. You can pour them thin if necessary to keep the items from moving, then finish with a thicker layer.
Could you tell me how to keep the open spaces open when you use resin. I tried filling the holes with poly clay but I could not get it out. Is there a way?
Use wax. Cured resin won’t stick to wax.
Hello! Your site is awesome, and a bit of a life saver for a beginner like me. I’m wondering if resin is fire safe once cured? In my case I would like to make ashtrays, so they technically won’t be close to actual fire, but still. Thank you for all of the advice and help! 🙂
I haven’t done this myself, but I have seen others do it.
Hi,
I have used epoxy resin for making a paper weight using dried leaves. Its cured but still the finished product is not shiny. Can I pour another layer of resin to make it shiny? I have used silicon mould for this paper weight.
Thanks,
Shaju
Yes, another layer of resin will work well to make it shiny.
How do you add another layer to add shine? Should we use brush to add thin layer of resin?
Yes, that will work well.
Hi… does resin set and stick well to pure silver and 18k gold jewellery bezels? Or should i add any particular glue to the base and then pour the resin?
As long as your metal is clean, the resin will adhere to the surface.
Katherine, I have just finished casting a paperweight for my son in law for Christmas! It came out well, thankfully. I would like to put a piece of felt on the bottom- what is the best glue to use? Thanks!
Maybe an Elmer’s or a Mod Podge? I’m worried that it may soak the felt though and make it lumpy. A spray adhesive might work better although I don’t have a specific recommendation. Have you thought about cork? That’s what I like to use. (P.S. Either way, he is going to love it!)
Hi, I’m new to using resin and I’m trying to use dried flower petals in my resin but they keep floating to the top. I read in another comment that adding the flowers in layers might solve this. Should I wait for each layer to cure before adding the next? If so, how long should I wait? Thanks!
As long as the previous layer has started to gel, you can add the next layer of resin without the two blending.
I’ve made some small square and round casted pieces to make into a bracelet… my problem is I have a tiny lip on each piece that I must trim off and sand … is there a way I can avoid getting the little thin edges to skip the trimming and sanding step?
Unfortunately, this is the nature of resin. Because of surface tension, it wants to ride up the sides of a mold.
Hi. Two days ago I went to a relative’funeral and have a beautiful white rose that I want to preserve. I have been looking on the Internet for ideas and a resin paperweight style object really appeals to me. I haven’t got long to get the equipment before the rose deteriorates. My main question is how do I prepare the rose first. I don’t want it dried out and look all ‘crumbly’ and I don’t want it flattened. Is it possible to use it so it looks fresh and open. I can only seem to find answers about flat drying flowers. There are plenty of images on the web of beautiful roses in resin paperweights, that’s what I would like to achieve! Thank you
This article should give you some ideas: https://resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/how-to-dry-flowers-using-silica-gel-beads/
Hi Katherine!
I want to try making a few pendants with handwoven fabric. Would it be necessary to seal the fabric before pouring resin on it so that the colors don’t bleed? If so, what would you recommend for using on cloth? I don’t want to make them in moulds. Id like them to look like glass cabochons…Which kind of resin would you recommend? I’d like the pendants to look as clear as glass, if possible, to show off the weave of the fabric.
Thank you in advance
Yes, you will need to seal the cloth sections. Treat them like you would a piece of paper. We have an article on how to seal papers here: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/how-to-seal-papers-or-findings-for-including-in-resin/
As for a resin choice, you mentioned that you wanted to make them like cabochons, but aren’t using molds. I’m not clear on how you are going to do this. Can you tell me more? That will help me with a resin recommendation.
I made some bangles using fabric, which I sealed with multiple coats of decoupage glue, and epoxy resin. The problem was that the epoxy couldn’t be buffed. So I tried polyester resin. The fabric looked like the glue “bled” in spots. I figured that I hadn’t let it dry long enough so I tried again with a week drying time and got the same results. I tried “painting” the resin over the treated fabric right before putting it in the mold with the same bleeding and muddy looking results. I just attempted to embed untreated fabric into the mold but mostly just made a mess so I really do need the fabric stiffened before I try to embed it! Is there a different sealing method I should be using for polyester resin? Thank you for your help.
It sounds like the fabric sealer is the issue. Unfortunately, this is not something I’m familiar with.
I agree it seems to be the glue but have no idea what to use instead. I’ve looked on line to no avail and was hoping that you would have the answer. I guess I’ll just experiment! Thank you for your reply.
I have a lovely old carved brooch that I would like to make a mold of and then cast in resin with some pearlized or colour effects, to be threaded on a chain and worn as a clear pendant. How is a resin pendant then attached to the chain if I don’t want to drill a hole?
You could use a glue-on bail.
Hi dear friend I would like to know that can we use these chemicals in real gold like 18k,22k to make jewellery.I would really appreciate if you can help me.
Thank you
Resin will adhere to gold.
I think I have read every post dating back to 2014, but unable to find the answer. Every once in a while, I over-pour a bezel. Is there any way to clean up the bezel after the resin has cured? I use Ice Resin. This is an awesome site; thanks in advance for any assistance.
Hi Sarah, here’s what I like to do: https://youtu.be/zTAYTBEQrkk
Thank you, Katherine!
Hi! I want to ask whether we need to spray the silicone mold with something before pouring/casting the resin or epoxy
Yes, I always recommend using a mold release before casting resin. We have several in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/mold-release
Hi Taylor, it’s hard to say without knowing the mold cavity dimensions. There is a resin calculator at this link that will help you: https://resinobsession.com/resin-calculator/
Hi, I’m wanting to get into resin jewelry making but I’m not sure if I want to because I don’t know if it’s an expensive hobby or not. What would you say?
Hi Natalie, relatively speaking, getting started making jewelry with resin is much less expensive as compared to using other items like precious metals and gemstones. If you make a mistake in resin, it doesn’t cost you nearly as much.
So I’m just starting my own little business making homemade jewelry and cute art and crafts. I’m just getting into resins and I think I started off pretty good. Unfortunately my projects are curing and look fan-freakin-tastic but are super oily and sticky I dropped on of my peices on the floor and now it’s covered in dog hair . Can I wash it soap and water to clean it off and some over the other peices are just a little sticky and taky. Is there a way I can wash my pieces with Dawn soap and water to get rid of the of the stickiness and oily??? Please get back to me. Stuck in my own resin….lol
Hi Jenny, yes, you can wash cured resin with soap and water.
Hi I recently started using resin to make keyrings and branch out later to do christmas ornaments and jewellry. When I do the keyrings though they are cured and solid bit I drill them to put the keyring in and I notice they keep cracking some of them actually crack and break apart. Whatbis the cause for this. Once I take them out of the mold they are fine until I drill the hole in them a d insert teh screq then they start cracking. Why is this?
Hi Tiffany, some resins will cure very hard and don’t take constant use (twisting and such) very well.
Ok
I do lots of paint pouring on vinyl records. Can this resin spray be used on larger items besides jewelry?
And what is the drying time?
Yes, you can use the resin spray on large items. Let it dry for 24 hours before use.
I’m brand new to resin and decided to try a good quality UV resin (Padico) to start with, so I don’t need to worry about ratios and spills. I tried casting some thin layers in a silicone mould and the resin came out hard, but tacky. Any advice? I was using the uv/led lamp that came with the beginner kit (same manufacturer as the resin, so I assume there’s no issue with a mismatched lamp specification to the resin type).
1. I did not try curing again after de-moulding; was I supposed to? The silicone mould was slightly cloudy (but by no means opaque) and was supposedly suitable for uv cure (not supplied by padico brand though).
2. Is it an unspoken rule that I should “post cure” for longer than the stated 60-90 seconds? E.g. in the sun for a day.
3. Can I remove the tacky layer with alcohol? I was worried that the tacky feel is evidence of a poor cure that cannot be “fixed” and should be thrown away so it doesn’t irritate people’s skin.
Advice is appreciated!
Hey Irene, I may be able to answer this for you. I also work with uv resin on occasion and I was frequently running into this issue as well.
After loads of research and testing I came up with a few methods that work to make sure you don’t end up with a sticky layer at the top of your pieces.
A. Extra curing time helps, but ONLY if the uv resin is at the correct temperature. Most uv resins don’t mention anything about this in the directions. However, like epoxy resin, temperature has an effect on the curing process. I recommend holding a torch or heat gun over your uv resin before starting to cure to warm it up.
If you are using a uv flashlight, you can keep a light flow of heat blowing onto the piece while the uv light is shining on it. Then, let the piece sit for a few hours.
B. Sometimes, alcohol will take the sticky layer off the top, but I have only had success with this method a couple times.
C. My favorite method is adding layer of clear nail polish or glaze over the top of your piece and letting it dry. It will dry hard and shiny! I believe a uv protectant spray works just as well!
Hope this helps!
Hello, Can resin jewellery catch fire ? I have made resin bangles and so am worried if I can do little cooking wearing it.
Please guide.
Hi Sharvani, cured resin won’t catch fire. But this article explains more: https://resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/can-epoxy-resin-catch-fire/